| Author |
Message |
    
Ricky Smart (Rikstaboogie)
| | Posted on Saturday, July 27, 2002 - 02:32 pm: | 
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any thoughts or comments on the removal of the viscous fan in exchange for a couple of electric fans. pros & cons;
electric fans controled by a switch, can be switched off for wading to help stop water in dizzy etc..
electric fans could fail ;-(
Carry viscous fan in boot along with other crap incase of complete electric fan failure.
Should the electric fans be mounted on the outside of the rad blowing air through or inside sucking? If mounted inside then i would loose the ease of swapping back to the viscous type.
Any thoughts or comments??
Ta
Rik |
Ali
| | Posted on Saturday, July 27, 2002 - 05:38 pm: |
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This is one of those topics that gets debated to death. At the end it ends up being personal choice as both systems have pros and cons. Personally, having one less electrical item is choice for me, especially if there's a chance of water contanimation. As far as cooling efficiency, that's up for debate. Some say that nothing comes close to the oem fan for actual cfm.
The viscous clutch is proven and if replaced as normal pm then you shouldn't have to worry about it. For those long, deep water crossing, just take it off (takes about 3 min). For those muddy crossings, some people drape a cloth type material over the front of the entire vehicle to keep crud from accumulating in the radiator cooling fins and being trapped between the radiator rows. |
p m
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 08:44 pm: |
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Ricky,
when my fan clutch seized, on top of missing shroud and three blades broken off the fan, i deemed the whole shebang too expensive, and installed two electric puller fans instead. I got a biggest 16" 1900cfm fan PepBoys had to offer, and augmented it with a baby 11" fan from Geo Metro. After the subsequent radiator recoring, my conclusion is that if you drive in heavy traffic along with many other heavy-right-footers in expensive rides, and are facing 6-10% grades on the highway and city streets, your rangie will run warm. I have wired the aux. fans (that normally get turned on with the A/C) to a manual switch, and I have to use it 20% of the time when the temperatures get over 80.
if I were to do it again (I will, eventually), i'd measure the thread size and pitch on the water pump shaft, and have an adapter made for US-common Hayden fan clutch and fan from a Chevy Caprice or some other GM car of that size. I have a Hayden 2747 heavy-duty clutch and 19" seven-blade fan on my big jeep, and it never goes over 175F (with a 160F thermostat) in any road conditions. The jeep fan is probably a big overkill, I wouldn't use it on the rover.
peter |
JB -
| | Posted on Thursday, August 01, 2002 - 09:55 am: |
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Randall Smith's response from a few weeks ago -
"Get a Flex-a-lite model #220 or 210 which is made for the size raditor core, which is on the RR/Disco/D90. It fits so well that I dont have any kind of mounting hardware at all. This is the only fan that I have on my truck and there has never been even a moment of overheating trouble.
However I would recommend that your raditor be in like new condition. This is actually how almost every passenger vehicle cools the raditor, with the only exceptions being trucks which might be purchased for heavy towing." - Randall Smith |
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