Loose t-case mounts?

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Author Message   AdrianS Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 10:20 am:    Hi everyone......Got a 91RRC with 124K, 3"RTE and 245/75 MT's. I started to feel a vibration/shuttering/shaking coming from under the center consol ( not in the shifter). I only feel it the most when I accelerate hard and only for 2-3 seconds then it goes away. I can feel it when I rest my right elbow on the consol. I will check my t-case mounts tonight. Any other ideas? Thanks Adrian   Randall Smith Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 01:58 pm:    Adrian With a 3" lift you should go ahead and get one of those double cardon front drive shafts. Before you put the new shaft on, drive around a little with no front drive shaft, just to see if the problem goes away with out the front driveshaft. I would also check every type of mounting bolt holding the drive train to the chassis.   JB Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 02:43 pm:    You might put in some new ujoints or grease the old. When it vibrates when you give it gas it could mean a bad ujopint (Spicer #344 at Napa) . Pulling one drive shaft will help isloate the vibe. Also maybe it is a bad trans. output front bearing or just a loose drive shaft bolt - Randall, hows your vibe these days ? I rebuilt the rear end and am chasing out a new vibe right now - the VC's still running strong after much abuse. QUESTION - When I grab the back end of the front drive shaft/U-JOINT/ flange and wiggle how much play should it have ? How hard is it to replace the trans. output bearing - do you do the race as well ?   AdrianS Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 03:38 pm:    The ujoints were replaced a week ago. The noise is more like something is hitting the body right above where the t-case is. The noise started after a trail run at the Killington event this weekend. If I accelerate slowly than I won't feel it. It only happens during the first 2-3 seconds of hard accelerating from a stop, after that there's no noise or vibe even up to 75mph. I'll check the mounts underneath tonight. Thanks. Adrian   AdrianS Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 03:51 pm:    Randall DD/C shaft is next on my list along with the front radius arms. Stock arms working okay for now. Adrian   Randall Smith Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 06:29 pm:    JB Still have my vibration. It is anoying and embarassing, but I am too broke(no cash) to fix it right now. I have replaced everything in the front except the diff assembly and the tranfer case(the pricyist items). I've already been thru this: How much play should there be in the front output of a BWTC... If the wheels are on the ground, then abour 2/3 of the times you check the play it is tight. However 1/3 of the time the output flange can be moved around 1 or 2 milimeters. I suspect that if the front wheels are off the ground(no tension), it would feel loose.   JB Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 08:33 pm:    Thanks for the info. Our stubborness will prevail in time but 'till then I am tiring of puting on and off those dam driveshafts. Is there a better tool for those bolts than an adjustable wrench maybe a shaved spanner ? Justin of CROC had a special tool to remove drive shaft bolts quickly on his old series- kind of a narrow necked very thin walled 14mm. extension that just fit in there and fit his ratchet. Anyone ever heard of this gem ? BTW - When I have output play I can feel the front shaft play all the way to the front flange of the rear shaft. Solaros - Aug 25 - a hard ride at Tellico.   Will Roeder (Will_Roeder) Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 08:41 pm:    JB...who are you? a member of solaros? i will be at tellico that weekend w/solaros....are you going to be there?   hendrik Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 01:43 am:    JB: diveshaft bolts/nuts need a 9/16 AF spanner (one end open jaw, other ring) That´s about 14.3mm (no other size fits sufficiently). Should be no problem to get in the US. You need two. (JohnCraddock UK advertises a special tool but I´ve never come across it).   Randall Smith Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 08:55 am:    DLS has been advertising a propshaft nut tool lately for 17 pounds. www.dls-uk.co.uk   AdrianS Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 12:19 pm:    Does this make sense? On my way home last night my tach would bounce up and down for a few seconds after leting off the gas when going down hill around 70-75. It would be fine every other time. When I got home I checked all mounts (t-case and motor) and everything seened okay. This morning when I started my truck I could hear a poping sound coming from the under the hood. The coil was acring from the main wire to the connector on the top left.(make sense? standing on the driver side looking down at coil)....I reseated the coil wire and while pulling the small connector off to clean it I noticed the sparkplug wire going to the first plug was not connected??? I plugged it in and the connector on the coil and now that vibration/shuttering is gone? Could the loose plug wire have caused the motor to run rough only when accelerating which in turn made everything bounce around and shake the trans and t-case and screw up the tach? I have a 35 minute drive to work and the truck ran great this morning. Adrian   JB Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 02:11 pm:    check for a loose spark plug letting out combustion pressure causing the popping sound.   Ali Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 02:16 pm:    Justin, Are you talking about the wrenches from Gearworks? These are very thin, ratcheting box end wrenches that work sweetly for taking on/off the driveshaft nuts/bolts.