| Author |
Message |
    
Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 10:21 am: | 
|
I just bought a new air compressor that I am installing in my basement. I need to hardwire it for 240 volts. The compressor is literally 5 ft from my fuse box. I was going to just splice into the circuit for my electric dryer and run it off that fuse. That is a 30A fuse. The compressor is rated at 15A, I was planning on running 10 gauge wire either to a 240 outlet and put a cord on the compressor or directly to the compressor with some kind of switch or disconnect (besides the one actually on the compressor). I figured I could just put the black and red wires to the 2 posts on the fuse, then the white wire would go to the negative bus inside the box, and I could ground it to a nearby copper water pipe. Is this an acceptable and safe way to do this?? I would put a new circuit in, but all the slots in my fuse panel are full. I thought about putting in a whole new sub-panel. Also, the compressor has 3 connections labeled as Line 1, Line 2, and Ground. Does it matter which wire goes to Line 1, and which wire goes to Line 2?? If so, how do I tell which one goes where??
Thank You,
Matt |
Mike Rupp (Mike_Rupp)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 10:52 am: |
|
Having both devices on the same 30A circuit would probably not be the way to go. I'm not positive, but if you have your dryer running and your compressor kicks on, you will be drawing more than 30 amps. Most likely you will be popping the breaker all the time.
It's a pain but just to be safe, you should add a sub panel. That way you can run new circuits for welders, etc. |
Kyle
| | Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 11:25 am: |
|
Mike is ofcourse right Matt but you can get away with it wired up to the same fuse. Just dont run em at the same time.
Kyle |
Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 11:43 am: |
|
I know Mike is right, but I thought that appliances only used the maximum amperage when starting up. They actually use less when they are running at operating speed. In any case the worst thing that could happen in the fuse to blow and I have to walk down to the basement and flip the breaker.
Matt |
Bill Bettridge (Billb)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 01:24 pm: |
|
If you're only 5' from you fuse panel - just install one new circuit - no need for a subpanel - throw in a 20 or 30 amp breaker and run the wiring. Probably a 1 hour job if you haven't done it before - and as long as you're not uncomfortable working inside your fuse panel.
Bill |
Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 01:58 pm: |
|
That's what I would like to be able to do, but all the slots in my fuse box are full. I have heard of breakers available that are only half as wide, but I don't know anything about them or if I could even get them for my application.
Matt |
Kyle
| | Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 02:40 pm: |
|
You can get piggy back breakers as well that turn two into one. You double up some of your 110 lines and that will open a slot for a 220 breaker in there.... Fairly simple....
Kyle |
todd slater (Toddslater)
| | Posted on Thursday, September 26, 2002 - 11:02 pm: |
|
From what I see here...stay away...if you don't know or can't tell the difference between a fuse and a breaker...stay far away...very far away |
James Groom (Jimg)
| | Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 04:03 am: |
|
Matt
1. As far as splicing into the dryer circuit after the breaker I definitely do not recommend it because the existing wiring may not handle the current. The wiring may be rated for a 30A load and if you have both devices running at the same time you could draw from 30 to 45 amps. It is one thing for a breaker to trip occasionally, that is what they are for, its another thing for a wire to turn into a fuse and break a circuit because it gets too hot. Simply putting up with repeated breaker resets is just waiting for disaster, sooner or later the breaker will fail and possible fuse in the closed position.
2. You never said what your panel is rated at, 60, 100, 200 or 400. I would recommend upgrading and not worrying about flickering lights, popped breakers or at worse a fire. I have read postings where guys don't blink an eye over spending $3k on suspension mods or other toys for their truck. Your home costs a bit more (i would think) than your truck and wiring is definitely not the time to pinch pennies.
Jim Groom |
M. K. Watson (Lrover94)
| | Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 08:32 am: |
|
yea what jim said!
mike w |
RVR OVR (Tom)
| | Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 10:00 am: |
|
how do you get your car into the basement? |
Kyle
| | Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 11:13 am: |
|
The man can just put the piggy back breakers in there and be done with it. Its done regularly and thats what they were made for , freeing up space....
Kyle |
Matt Milbrandt (95discovery)
| | Posted on Sunday, September 29, 2002 - 11:03 pm: |
|
I ran hard line to my workbench in my basement and also up to the garage since that is where I will be using it the most.
I am most likely just going to do what Kyle said. I was going to buy some breakers that were half as wide and put in a couple new 15A breakers for the existing lighting circuits and a 20A breaker for my air compressor. I go to out to get them, and apparently my Federal Pacific panel only accepts Federal Pacific circuit breakers, and they are being phased out and no one is making them anymore. So for 3 new breakers it is $120. I know my house cost a lot more, and the $120 is small compared to everything else I am using, but damn...that is ridiculous to pay that when every other brand costs a few bucks. So I am going to check some local electrical supply houses and there is also a place that we have an account with at work, and I will try them. Also, my panel is 200A.
Matt |
|
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page