| Author | Message | ||
     Joe Eisele (Landgrover) New Member Username: Landgrover Post Number: 3 Registered: 02-2004 |
I have this strange problem which I thought I fixed, wherein when I start the car and turn the head lights on, the dash lights fail to illuminate. I checked the fuses, fine there. The headlights go on fine but all the dash lights just flicker and go out. I replaced the dimmer switch and the lights worked, but even then I had to turn the headlights on and off a few times to get the dash lights working again. Now last night when i did the same thing, the dash lights didnt come on at all, and only flickered once or twice with just the parking lights on and then went completely out with the headlights on. Is this a grounding problem, and where could i find the grounds? Any ideas are welcome as I am banging my head against the fuse box, sure to cause irreprable damage... | ||
| trevor griffiths (Trevorgriffiths) Member Username: Trevorgriffiths Post Number: 243 Registered: 11-2002 |
needs a headlight switch | ||
| Joey Stompedissel (Huskyboy) Member Username: Huskyboy Post Number: 44 Registered: 10-2003 |
Possibly the headlight switch, check the earth connections too, behind the footwell fascia on th sides | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 623 Registered: 04-2003 |
When mine did that someone posted the following into (which I have not done yet) but I did just take the light switch and with a little sideways pressure turned it on and off about 30 times, and it fixed it. But in case you want to things a little better: Okay, as promised here is the procedure. I'm not saying this is definetly your problem, but I had the same symptoms and this was the cause. Tools required Small Philips head screwdriver Emery cloth (sand paper) Procedure 1. On the underside of the plastic cowling which surrounds the steering column are three screws in recessed holes, undo these screws. 2. Firmly, but cautiously pull apart the top and bottom of the cowling, It snaps together, but do not force it. 3. Turn the steering wheel to the left so that the top of the center body of the wheel is aligned vertically rather than horizontally, which it would be if the driving wheels were straight ahead. It is easier if the engine is running when doing this so that the Power Assisted Steering is working. 4. Before continuing, turn OFF the ignition and remove the key for safety. 5. Access to two small screws used to secure the switch housing to the steering column assembly is now gained. See picture. Remove these two screws. 6. There are two connecter blocks on the back of the switch, disconnect these. 7. Firmly, but again cautiously, pull the switch from the column. It has probably not been removed since vehicle assembly so will undoubtedly be stiff. This took me a little time to work out, but the switch will ONLY come out if pulled straight out through the direction of the drivers door. There are two tracks on the top and two on the bottom of the switch holding its position so it must slide in and out along these tracks. 8. Once the switch is out, remove the two screws on the back and separate the covers from the switch body, there are two, one on top of the other, both held in by the two screws. Be careful when separating the switch as there are moving parts inside which will come out and need to go back in, in the same location. 9. Clean any residue or corrosion from the contacts within the switch using the emery cloth. A light sanding is all that should be necessary, try not to touch the contacts again with dirty fingers. 10. Reassemble the two covers on the back of the switch and plug in the two connecter blocks. 11. Turn on the ignition and try to turn on the lights, if all lights work as they should turn off lights and ignition then reassemble following these instructions backwards.  | ||
| Joe Eisele (Landgrover) New Member Username: Landgrover Post Number: 4 Registered: 02-2004 |
Hmm, seems strange to be a headlight switch when the headlights work fine, when checking the fuses just now, it seems that the trailer lights, auxiliary fuse on the bottom of the fuse box right hand corner gives me a spark when I put the fuse back in, which has never happened to me before. Also, the earth connections, what exactly do they look like and where exactly is the footwell fashia? I am pretty much inept when it comes to these electrical issues | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 624 Registered: 04-2003 |
Joe, like I said I had the same issue with my '97 Disco and it was the headlight switch....weird yes, but remember what all the swithc turns on. | ||
| Joe Eisele (Landgrover) New Member Username: Landgrover Post Number: 5 Registered: 02-2004 |
alright, i will give that a look today, thanks for all your help | ||
| Joe Eisele (Landgrover) New Member Username: Landgrover Post Number: 6 Registered: 02-2004 |
Hmm, well I believe I have found the problem but cant seem to fix it. I removed the sterring cover etc and found that the larger of the wire block connectors had what looks like brown "burn" coloring in two of the holes, while the contacts that go in those holes show some corrosion. I removed the corrosion but the lights still flicker and go out. Do I have to replace this block connector or am I just not cleaning them enough? (hard to get to the inside surface of these two contacts as it borders another contact) Again, thanks for all your help as I am 90% sure this is the proble. | ||
| Joe Eisele (Landgrover) New Member Username: Landgrover Post Number: 7 Registered: 02-2004 |
also, are there any other places in the switch I have to clean for corrosion or is it just the 10 rectangle things on the bottom of the switch? | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 626 Registered: 04-2003 |
Contact cleaner and a small brush should help. I don't think you should have to replace it. If you can get into the holes with a small abrasive file or pipe cleaner with some contact cleaner and it should work. | ||
| Joe Eisele (Landgrover) New Member Username: Landgrover Post Number: 8 Registered: 02-2004 |
Damn, well it still didn't work, cleaned the contacts on the switch and on the block connector. The switch itself seems fine from a superficial look. What I did find interesting was that with the headlights on, no other lights will light up, meaning no rear lights or side lights. Brake lights come on when you hit the pedal but as it is it would be dangerous to drive at night. I can't understand why i keep getting flickering dash lights for about the first 3 times I twist the light knob and then nothing. What could I look for with the ground wires? They seemed fine to me when I looked at them. Also, I know its not the dimmer switch this time as now, the transmission selector lights stay on when i turn the headlights on and off. Could it really be as stupid as a dash light bulb or wire out of place? I still dont know why the #6 fuse on the bottom satellite gave me a spark...anyway looks like I may take this to someone to look at if I cant solve it tonight and I felt so close to an answer. Thank for you help as there are few other places I could get free on the spot help from people who probably know more than some mechanics. | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 630 Registered: 04-2003 |
Joe, if you are getting a spark (sorry didn't notice that earlier) then you may very well have a short or a bad ground (earth). If you have a multimeter, I would check your ground (usually black wires) as well as all the conncetions to see if it is getting power across the connections. | ||
| Joe Eisele (Landgrover) New Member Username: Landgrover Post Number: 9 Registered: 02-2004 |
Actually, realized that was the interior light fuse which was sparking because the door was open and the lights were on. But upon driving it just now, I am positive that the problem is the switch. No dash lights for 1/3 of the trip then I make a left turn and flip the signal and wham, the dash lights go back on, then they go off when the turn signal goes off. Fiddled with it some more and turned the headlight switch knob really slowly and sure enough, the dash lights go on. So tommorow I will just pick up a headlight switch/assembly or try to get one cheap from a yard etc. Any idea on a website etc that would give me one for under 100? | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Senior Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 379 Registered: 08-2003 |
Ahem.. So i joined club of not working illumination and rear lights last night. Damn. Joe - did you manage to fix it or find place with cheap replacements? | ||
| Ted Walkley (Etwalkley) New Member Username: Etwalkley Post Number: 1 Registered: 03-2004 |
Cleaning the contacts does not work at all you have to get into the swtich itself and clean the contacts there. I used a pencil earser works great. I've done it 2 times now. Getting better at doing it each time. I have not found a decent source for a replacement swtich. Use a digital camera to remember how to put it back together | ||
| Joe Eisele (Landgrover) New Member Username: Landgrover Post Number: 19 Registered: 02-2004 |
Oh I forgot to update, your right I didn't clean the inner contacts and when I did take it apart they were covered in some bronze color corrosion. However, this was after I had purchased the switch from a junkyard in philly for 25 bucks which worked great. I somehow didn't put the old one back together right but it didn't matter by then. The problem still isn't solved completely as I believe there is still a short somewhere in the system because every so often, I have to switch the lights on and off 3 times before the dash come on. But this is good enough for me right now. | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Senior Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 381 Registered: 08-2003 |
Thanks folkz.. Looks like i am going to try that one tonight. | ||
| trevor griffiths (Trevorgriffiths) Member Username: Trevorgriffiths Post Number: 244 Registered: 11-2002 |
Like I said, it needs a switch. Sorry i didn't go into more detail about my experience, (20 years as a professional certified mechanic and 6 years working on rover),it's just that I have seen this more than a few times before. | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Senior Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 383 Registered: 08-2003 |
Trevor, just in case if cleaning wouldnt help - do you happen to know part # for it? | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Senior Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 384 Registered: 08-2003 |
Took whole thing apart, cleaned, put together - no luck whatsoever. Its almost like wire decided to go out somewhere or ECU does not like me anymore - headlamps turns on, but rears wont, and instruments panel/radio/shifter are in "day" mode, ignoring switch position. | ||
| Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad) Senior Member Username: Uzbad Post Number: 389 Registered: 08-2003 |
Update: ok. I been sitting on it for hour, checking connections and everything is ok (i.e when i turn switch i can see resistance between contacts dropping & etc. when i shorten those contacts myself - damn illumination works. When i am shortening them with headlight switch - it wont.) So basically to those who got that issue and wont spend 120+ bucks for new switchm, but old one wont work - here is how to fix damn thing: - take big plug off the switch. Now, assuming you looking at the plug (female part), keeping it horizontally, and thickest/biggest contact of it points is on the top - that middle biggest contact and lowest left one are ones that turn bloody illumination on. - splice into wires attached to those, or just manufacture something from two thin wires to get into those contacts, and put switch between them. For old D1s you can stick small rocker switch into space near mirror buttons (vertical one is perfect fit for rocket switch without fancy surround). Now you can put headlight switch back, assemble steering wheel cover - you got manual switch to turn your illumination on  And it will cost you bugger all (i had wires and switch laying about in garage ) Email me if you got any questions. | ||
| Joe Eisele (Landgrover) New Member Username: Landgrover Post Number: 21 Registered: 02-2004 |
If anyone wants, the next time I go down to this junkyard, I can pick up a few switches and I would only charge you what I pay the guy (25 bucks for mine) + gas to get there and back etc. (Granted, Im not driving down in a Prius). Anyone interested just let me know. |
