| Author | Message | ||
     R. B. Bailey (Rover50987) Senior Member Username: Rover50987 Post Number: 783 Registered: 07-2002 |
So I FINALLY got someone to sell me a drivers door lock actuator (used). It would probably be easier to find WMDs for sale. Anyway, I got it hooked up and it does the same thing. That is, neither the new one or the old one do NOTHING. When you hit the lock or remote button the doors are supposed to lock or unlock and the alarm is supposed to engage and disengage in like - RIGHT? Well, both the old actuator and the new, make a sound, and movement is "felt" when they are forced to the UNLOCK position. Neither of them make a sound or move or anything when moved to LOCK. This is all confusing, my point is: it seems strange that both the actuators I have neither work, nor are they completely dead, but both have the same symptoms. Could their be another explaination? Why does my alarm engage only after I push the button twice? Etc, etc, etc... I need help with this before I send the actuator back and ask for a refund, and before I break down and spend $200 for a new one and find that it wasn't the actuator at all!! Thanks, now I am going to cook chicken flesh and eat it. | ||
| Shaun Power (Shaunp) Senior Member Username: Shaunp Post Number: 270 Registered: 05-2003 |
I never use factory ones in Disco's or Rangies. I just buy an after market kit and retro fitt them, the whole kit only costs $40. I normaly just fit the new control box and splice in the drivers door harness and leave the rest alone. The actuators are then a direct swap same holes and every thing. Best part is it only cost $40 for another kit and you get 2 more fronts and 2 more rears if one fails. You can leave all the LR ones that work insitue as well. | ||
| sam (Dent) New Member Username: Dent Post Number: 40 Registered: 01-2004 |
baily... am hoping you haven't put your door trim back on... with volt metre measure the what your getting on the bad door and measure what your getting on a good door... or maybe someone has the spec on what it should be. Just to make sure it's not a wire issue. now i forget which door you're having problems with so.. left front: look at connection with tab on top.. bottom left on bottom right... see if you get power all the other doors only have 2 if you dont' get anything power it's either a wire or a fuse secondly, does it lock or unlock when you manually lock it from the driver side door? | ||
| R. B. Bailey (Rover50987) Senior Member Username: Rover50987 Post Number: 788 Registered: 07-2002 |
It does neither - lock or unlock - but it (they all do) make a sound when you manually UNLOCK - or when I push the remote! Are you saying that the other door lock actuators have two wires, only the drivers side has 4? I can probably test for power. And I did check for fuses, but I suppose it could be a bad fuse without looking bad...? Shaun, are you saying you just buy generic GM or Ford or Bosch, or ?, and then modify the linkage? Where do you get these things? Finally, is it possible that this whole problem is caused by the remote control reciever, not the actuators? I assume that it is not the actuator itself that recieves the signal, but that it recieves a jolt from a relay somewhere and then acts as a relay for the rest of the door locks??? | ||
| R. B. Bailey (Rover50987) Senior Member Username: Rover50987 Post Number: 790 Registered: 07-2002 |
___________________ Finally, is it possible that this whole problem is caused by the remote control reciever, not the actuators? I assume that it is not the actuator itself that recieves the signal, but that it recieves a jolt from a relay somewhere and then acts as a relay for the rest of the door locks??? __________________ There IS a separate control unit!! They even have a picture of it in the Haynes manual. In the 1994+ vehicles this also controls the alarm. (when they say it is under the passenger side facia, do they mean drivers side NAS?) This means that it could be either the control unit, or that both of my actuators are bad - I just figured out that my problem could be twice as big and much more expensive to fix! yea...hh.... No body even has control units for sale. Not even new! Does anyone know what the part number would be for that? | ||
| Shaun Power (Shaunp) Senior Member Username: Shaunp Post Number: 272 Registered: 05-2003 |
R.B I have just been buying a generic type kitts from the local Auto Parts shop $40 for 4 actuators and a control box. They fit straight in same linkage same mounts. The wireing is different as they have an external control box. All I do is use the new harness for the drivers door and splice in to the cars harness in the footwell and leave the rest alone,you then need to find the trigger wire from the alarm to switches the control box. Works perfect and for $40 you can get another 4 spare units. The rear units are a direct swap with the Rover ones apart from the connector and on some cars the passenger one is as well. I first did it on my D1 4 years ago and have never had a problem since, I've done sveral others since. | ||
| R. B. Bailey (Rover50987) Senior Member Username: Rover50987 Post Number: 792 Registered: 07-2002 |
OK, but the used one I bought was for $50. If I can get them to exchange me for a working one, that would be worth it. So you take the wiring out of the dirvers door, or just ignore it? Use the aftermarket harness to splice into the control box under the dash? What do you do with the new aftermarket conrol box? BTW, I tested the door wiring to the door, ground is good, power is good, and the two relay wires also indicate power when the door lock button is pushed. This would indicate that it is an actuator only problem, not that the control box is bad. However, I do wonder about the fact that I cannot find a part number for the control box anywhere, and that even the dealership parts department could not find it...... | ||
| Shaun Power (Shaunp) Senior Member Username: Shaunp Post Number: 274 Registered: 05-2003 |
What I do is fitt the new control box and part of the new harness. I fitt the new harness to the drivers door and the new actuator as well plus any other that have failed. I then use one of new rear door cables, cut it short and splice it in to the original harness in the footwell to drive the other locks. Then you just need to find the trigger from the alarm to trigger the new control box and your away. You now have 2 spare rear actuators and one spare front, $40 and 2 hours work and if you run out you can get another 4 for $40. | ||
| neil harman (Neil30076) New Member Username: Neil30076 Post Number: 17 Registered: 03-2004 |
Door actuator CIRCUIT OPERATION The locking functions on models with the Theft Alarm System are controlled by the Theft Alarm Unit The locking functions on models without the Theft Alarm System are controlled by the Left Front Door Lock Actuator. Locking : When the doors are locked by the front exterior key or the interior door sill knob, the internal microswitches in the Left Front Door Lock Actuator move to the � Lock� position. Voltage from fuse F4 is applied to the lock actuators. The lock actuators are grounded at through the microswitch contacts.The doors and the tailgate now lock. The wiring to check on the actuator unit is : Orange and pink 12volts pulsed for a second or two when lock/unlock. black and yellow should open and close when you manually move the actuator in / out. The action is reversed on unlock. Hope this helps, just fixed mine, actuator was shot. |
