| Author | Message | ||
     Beau Campbell (Bcampbe7) New Member Username: Bcampbe7 Post Number: 3 Registered: 03-2004 |
Is the transfer case oil something that should be changed regularly? I am wanting to change the oil, for no reason other than I think it should be changed. My vehicle has 65K miles on it and I am not sure that it has been changed. Is it something that would be done at any of the service intervals? If it should be changed, what oil would you guys recommend? Also, is this something that is easy enough to tackle or is it something a mechanic or trans shop should do? Thanks, Beau | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Senior Member Username: Erik Post Number: 319 Registered: 04-2002 |
The dealership service schedule says to change the oil every 30k miles. When I last did mine, I put in Mobile 1 gear oil, and have been very happy with it. | ||
| Dave Smith (Javelinadave) Member Username: Javelinadave Post Number: 98 Registered: 07-2002 |
Beau, It is super easy. 1) Remove the filler plug with a 1/2 inch socket. 2) Remove the drain plug and catch the dirty gear lube in a pan or bucket. 3) Reinstall the drain plug. 4) Using a pump (about $5 from any auto parts store) fill up the x-fer case till the new lube runs out the fill plug. 5) Reinstall fill plug. 6) Have a beer! Diffs are done the exact same way. Always remove the filler plug first. It would suck to drain out the lube and then find you can't refill because the filler plug is stuck! | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 1605 Registered: 02-2002 |
When Dave says use a 1/2" socket, he means use the 1/2" drive (the square part) of a ratchet-wrench or breaker bar (i.e. no socket). | ||
| Dave Smith (Javelinadave) Member Username: Javelinadave Post Number: 99 Registered: 07-2002 |
Thanks Dean, that is exactly what I meant. | ||
| Beau Campbell (Bcampbe7) New Member Username: Bcampbe7 Post Number: 4 Registered: 03-2004 |
Thanks for the help... Problem though. On the rear, I got the filler plug off but the drain plug will not budge. I am afraid of stripping the threads or snapping the bolt by using a longer armed socket for more leverage. I didn't try the front. Does the dealer put lock-tite on these when they service them? I'll keep trying. | ||
| Dave Smith (Javelinadave) Member Username: Javelinadave Post Number: 100 Registered: 07-2002 |
Who knows what the dealer put on the thread. It very well may be just "baked" into place. If you are scared of damaging the plug, use the pump to pump out the old fluid then pump in the new stuff. You wont get it all out but most is better than none. Dave Smith www.JavelinaRacing.com | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 1609 Registered: 02-2002 |
Beau - the drain plug is about 3/4" long and quite honestly its pretty tough as bolts go. They put threadlock on them in the factory. Get a 24" breaker bar on it and pull, what else can you do? If you pump it out, you'll leave any sludge there at the bottom on the magnet. | ||
| Randy Maynard (Rans) Senior Member Username: Rans Post Number: 785 Registered: 08-2002 |
Beau, like Dean says, put some meat into it. I used an 18" "Cheap Fuck" Craftsman breaker bar, one of my favorite tools, and a piece of pipe to get some leverage. They are locktighted at the factory and maybe by the dealer too. Don't be afraid to lean on it. Fear of damaging the threads is more on the replacing of the plug. I did not locktight mine going back in. I refilled mine using a $10 drill pump. Best $10 I ever spent (home depot). I refilled using 1 qt of Lucas Oil treatment and the rest (1.25 qt or so) of Castrol Hypoy C Gear Oil. I just put new Diffs in this past week and so they got straight 80-90w gear oil because they will get changed in 500-750 miles. I will most likely use the same combo then. |
