Disco 1 wheels...made from aluminum o... Log Out | Topics | Search
Moderators | Register | Edit Profile

DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Discovery - Technical Discussions » Archive through April 03, 2004 » Disco 1 wheels...made from aluminum or magnesium?? « Previous Next »

Author Message
 

Glen Hernandez (Polofella26)
Member
Username: Polofella26

Post Number: 108
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 - 02:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The Castor alloys that come on the 94-95 Discoveries...are they made out of aluminum or magnesium. Also..if they are chrome coated....is there a difference?
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 1431
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

take a lighter to the wheel, you'll find out quickly.
 

Blue (Blue)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Blue

Post Number: 1442
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 - 03:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

LOL
 

Glen Hernandez (Polofella26)
Member
Username: Polofella26

Post Number: 109
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 - 03:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yea...see thats just it. I want to weld on it but I don't know if I should use magnesium rods or attack it with a TIG machine. I want to say that it is magnesium because it looks like it. But I would love to know for sure. Anyone out there know?
 

Jack Quinlan (Jsq)
Senior Member
Username: Jsq

Post Number: 620
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 - 06:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

what exactly are you welding to your wheels Ben Hur?
 

Blue (Blue)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Blue

Post Number: 1444
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 - 06:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

they're aluminium
 

Clif Ashley (Cta586)
Senior Member
Username: Cta586

Post Number: 549
Registered: 04-2002
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Curiosity is killing me as well...

If you feel so inclined, please share your plans.
 

Chuck Stroud (Str0ud)
Member
Username: Str0ud

Post Number: 47
Registered: 02-2004
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 - 08:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Clearly he is welding on guides for tank tracks.

-Str0ud
 

Mike M (Rangeroverhp)
Senior Member
Username: Rangeroverhp

Post Number: 260
Registered: 09-2003
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yes. Do tell.
 

Glen Hernandez (Polofella26)
Member
Username: Polofella26

Post Number: 110
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 - 10:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well...I am actually repairing a wheel. I had this baby on a trail and I hit a very hard piece or rock that damaged the outer lip of my wheel, causing a blow out. So, I wanted to make sure what kind of metal I was working with before I blew the rest of the wheel apart. I am using a TIG weld to refill then reshaping the lip to it's original condition. I also believe it is aluminum, however....the profile looke like magnesium. But from my knowledge, they stopped making wheels out of magnesium about 20 years ago. Who knows i guess.
 

Wes (Wes)
Member
Username: Wes

Post Number: 241
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Wednesday, March 31, 2004 - 10:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You're probably trying to save money, but why don't you take it to a professional wheel repair person?
 

Glen Hernandez (Polofella26)
Member
Username: Polofella26

Post Number: 111
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Well...they guy that is doing it for me is a proffesional machinist/welder. In fact, he is a technical instructor at a college where I used to fill in at. However, do you know of any professional wheel repair companies? I have confidence in his work but would love to hear of some alternatives. Thanks, Glen H
 

Blue (Blue)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Blue

Post Number: 1445
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 10:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I still like the Ben Hur idea
 

Dave Statler (Falconx84)
Member
Username: Falconx84

Post Number: 130
Registered: 02-2004
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 10:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post


quote:

take a lighter to the wheel, you'll find out quickly.




Actually... magnesium won't catch fire in that form. If you're ever camping and use a block of magnesium for a firestarter, trying throwing the block in a fire. Even though the shavings/powder catches fire, the block won't because it is too compacted, the molecules are too close together.
 

Glen Hernandez (Polofella26)
Member
Username: Polofella26

Post Number: 112
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I suppose you're right Dave. I like the "Ben Hur" idea too. ha.... Besides, it's cheap and an easy fix. But if anyone else has some more input on this, I could use the advice. Thanks, Glen
 

James M. Reed (Utahdog2003)
New Member
Username: Utahdog2003

Post Number: 22
Registered: 03-2004
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

magnesium's ability to cary a flame is also affected by the purity of the metal. I think most 'mag' wheels are made of some type of alloy...Vanadium, Aluminum etc with Magnesium being the primary component.

the torch heat would also be a factor, as your run of the mill campfire wouldn't generate as much heat as a TIG
 

Peter Matusov (Pmatusov)
Senior Member
Username: Pmatusov

Post Number: 1436
Registered: 09-2002
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Dave, pure magnesium oxidizes quickly, and forms an oxide film on the surface that prevents it from spontaneous combustion in the air. But, if you scratch it up, and take a lighter to it, you'll enjoy the show.
FWIW, the molecules are nearly as close together in the shavings as they are in a forged chunk of metal. It's just tougher to crack/burn off the oxide film on a bigger piece of metal than it is on shavings.
 

Sergei Rodionov (Uzbad)
Senior Member
Username: Uzbad

Post Number: 440
Registered: 08-2003
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 11:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Peter - you still can light up aluminum if you got enough oxygen (can be released by certain other chemicals, while heating :-)).. We used to do rocket fuel out of them old aluminium spoons, that we were , ahem.. borrowing from school's dining room :-)

Of course we stopped as soon as one of research institutes next to school dumped out piles of circonium rods :-) Those were plain amazing (needs less heat and oxygen to go :-)). Unless you dont mind some radiation.
 

Glen Hernandez (Polofella26)
Member
Username: Polofella26

Post Number: 113
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 12:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Wow!...Why did I go to college?...I got all I need in this post. haha. Anyways, I found out that the wheels are indeed made of aluminum...magnesium may be a component of the wheel...but I ran a chemical test on the wheel and it is Aluminum....for those that wanted to know. I used my TIG welder and repaired the damage. Now all I have to do is have it machined. Thanks for the info all!
 

James M. Reed (Utahdog2003)
New Member
Username: Utahdog2003

Post Number: 24
Registered: 03-2004
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 02:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'm no materials engineer, so take this with a grain of salt (although I was in the bicycle business for years, where I had just about every aluminum related conversation possible!) I understand you damaged the wheel on the trail, so maybe this is your plan all along...so here goes. I'd only use the wheel as a spare. If that wheel is forged and then machined, or cast and then heat treated, then I'd be worried that my repair would still be a strees point on the rim for future problems. Maybe hang that one off the back of the rig?
 

Glen Hernandez (Polofella26)
Member
Username: Polofella26

Post Number: 114
Registered: 11-2002
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 07:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

James...From your experience.....what is the worst that can happen. I realize that it will be a weak point on the wheel....I guess I am just looking at the cost of buying a new one. Give me your opinion on using this wheel and what may happen. Thanks, Glen H
 

Todd Phenneger (Toddp)
Member
Username: Toddp

Post Number: 197
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Friday, April 02, 2004 - 03:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I've dealt with a few bent or damaged aluminlum wheels. IF they are forged then you can fix them. But if they are cast which the D1 wheel is then I would question the repair. I've had two cast wheels repaired by a well known wheel repair shop that is known for quality work. They warned me that it may not hold and neither repair did. They both eventually broke at the same spot and I discarded the wheels.
Now if the wheel is forged then its a different matter. They will bend like a steel wheel and are very repairable. They are maleable, weldable, etc. Wheel repair shops fix hundreds of BBS/Fikse/Kinesis etc wheels every year. With wonderful results.
THe exception to this rule are some rare, extraordinary high pressure cast wheels. Kinesis for example has some cast wheels that are very high quality castings. The press is over 5 Stories tall and weighs hundreds of thousands of pounds. It uses immense pressure to squeeze any air out of the castings leavign a cast product that very closely resembles a forged wheel. These wheels, while being very light, are also maleable and weldable with decent results.
Hope that helps a little. When you hang out with cars that spend time at race tracks on narrow track tires you see lots of bent wheels.
l8r
Todd
 

James M. Reed (Utahdog2003)
New Member
Username: Utahdog2003

Post Number: 26
Registered: 03-2004
Posted on Friday, April 02, 2004 - 09:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

In the world of bicycles, aluminum frames are considered disposable. If you bend one, crack one, badly dent a tube, snap it in half, etc then just put it in the recycle bin. I have no experiences with wheel repair so I'm only basing my point here on the material side of this discussion.
Aluminum does not have the elasticity of steel, meaning, steel you can bend once or twice and not snap it. (try this...go to the Home Depot and buy two metal dowels, one steel and one aluminum, then bend both just once. Look at the bend with a glass and you can see cracks in the aluminum. Not so in the steel. Now if you were to straighten the aluminum rod and then fab it up into some structure, where do you think it would fail?) If you crack or break a rim, then, also because of a lack of flexibility, the stress on the rim will focus to the point where the structure is weakest, in this case the repair. It is in this logic that cyclists are told to discard aluminum components that are visibly damaged after accidents. Heck, some MTB component manufacturers actually recomend replacing lightweight aluminum structural components after a full season of competition, visible damage or no.

Could you repair the wheel? Sure, and it would look fine. BUT, I wouldn't want to be in that truck on a trail, with the repaired wheel on the outside corner of some rock strewn Colorado switchack dropping down 1000 feet to the valley floor.

Now, were this conversation about patching a nonstructural aluminum item, like say the hood of a car, then knock yourself out. But structural stuff? Forged or not, Heat Treated or not, Chemically Treated, Hard Anodized, 6000, 7000, 2000 series Aluminum or whatever, I'd buy a new wheel.

Sorry for the length of the post.
James

Topics | Last Day | Last Week | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Program Credits Administration