| Author | Message | ||
     Jason McCombs (Jasonmc) Member Username: Jasonmc Post Number: 189 Registered: 06-2003 |
i have had a leaking exhaust manifold gasket for a while now, so i ordered myself a new one and started removing the studs. 2 came out easily. On the third one the nut came off easily, however the stud stayed put. It didn't even loosen up. so it is seized, and to boot it's the one that doesn't have the exit hole on the top side. it is covered by the exhaust manifold. so i can't soak it in power blaster. i gotta tell you the passenger side is such a pain in the ass to get to. i pretty much have to flatten my nose against the dif and wrap my arms around it to get to the studs. this is such a gumption trap. so anyone got any ideas of how i can get the thing out? so that i can replace the gasket? | ||
| flyor (Flyor) Member Username: Flyor Post Number: 91 Registered: 05-2003 |
if it's not stripped reuse it | ||
| dhk (Kay_tell) New Member Username: Kay_tell Post Number: 35 Registered: 03-2004 |
use heat. the liquid wrench. oxy/accelyne tourch. thats if you want to rplace it. consider yourself lucky that it is not broken or stripped. anyway nip onto it with vise grips and heat the manifold cherry hot and twist it out. | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 725 Registered: 04-2003 |
Leave the stud there, and the easiest way to undue or replace is a long extension and a swivel. | ||
| Jason McCombs (Jasonmc) Member Username: Jasonmc Post Number: 190 Registered: 06-2003 |
i can't leave the stud in becuase i have to change the gasket. and the stud goes through a hole in the gasket. ergo the stud has to come out. i dont have a torch so the heating thing is gonna be tough. any other ideas? | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 727 Registered: 04-2003 |
Jason, Sorry to hear of the trouble, can't you seperate the down pipe and the Manifold? I found on both sides when doing this work the one stud stayed in place. Of course I also just cut the cats and everything off since I was changing to headers. But I figured you still should have enough play in the pipe to seperate the two parts, then install the gasket. | ||
| Jason McCombs (Jasonmc) Member Username: Jasonmc Post Number: 191 Registered: 06-2003 |
joey, i tried pulling on the down pipe and cats and the stud is just long enought to prevent me from doing it. the studd is about 1/4" too long. the downpipe flage won't pull away far enough to clear the stud to allow me to swap the gasket. | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 729 Registered: 04-2003 |
Ok, I just read through the Workshop manual and it basically says that you have to remove the two bolts that hold the front and rear exhaust together ('Y' Pipe and exhaust). Then remove the bolts that hold 'Y' Pipe to manifold, discard gaskets. My guess is the only way to do this if you can not get them to seperate is to remove the rear part of the exhuast to see if that will give you more play, if not it also says you have to remove O2 sensors if remove 'Y' pipe. Hope this helps, Joey | ||
| flyor (Flyor) Member Username: Flyor Post Number: 92 Registered: 05-2003 |
I get it now, your only trying to drop one side. If the stud is stuck just take the three out on the other side and the whole y-pipe will drop enough to replace both gaskets. | ||
| Peter J Blatt (Peteb) Senior Member Username: Peteb Post Number: 361 Registered: 10-2002 |
Notch the bolt hole in the gasket, then slide in place. | ||
| Brian (Bthaxton) Member Username: Bthaxton Post Number: 114 Registered: 02-2003 |
Jason, This appears to be more difficult than it should be. I have replaced both exhaust manifolds on my '97 D1 due to cracks. I'm going to assume that you have a minimum of tools (for the sake of argument), so do this: 1) Remove the manifold from the head (engine) itself. It is not hard. Use a 12MM 12-sided socket, a 1" or 3" extension, and a 3/8" drive wrench (because it is usually shorter than a 1/2" drive). Pull the manifold out, saving the gaskets that will fall to the ground. 2) Turn the manifold upside down and lay it down on the ground (or, better, a vise if you have one). Spray (deluge) your miracle-working PB Blaster into the stud. Go have a beer (or two) for 30 minutes. 3) Take a pair of vise-grips and REALLY clamp down on the stud. Rotate it out, BUT BE CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK IT. Throw the stud away, because it is now ruined. You have new ones if I read correctly. 4) Install the new studs. I used Loctite Red (hi-temp) on my new studs to keep them from slipping out again, and chances are they will. Some might disagree with the Loctite, but I used it and all is well. Chances are you will need a new manifold down the road before you break one of those new studs. 5) To reinstall the manifold, simply place your downpipe (triangle-shaped) gasket on top of the downpipe and insert the three protruding studs through the gasket holes and through the holes on the downpipe flange. As you are doing this, the manifold will slide into place against the head. You can let go of it now, for it should be resting in place and is not going anywhere. 6) Next, this is where a friend comes in handy, and one that you do not mind getting cuddly with for a few minutes. Your friend is going to hold the manifold in place while you insert the head/manifold gaskets and screw in (get started) at least two bolts by hand, preferably one on each end. The gaskets only go on one way. You should be able to arrange the gaskets and screw in the rest of the bolts by yourself. 7) To tighten, I would recomend a torque wrench, but if you do not have one, use your 3/8" socket wrench (no larger) and start in the middle of the manifold and tighten in an "X" pattern working your way to the ends. The manual requires only 37NM (about 20 FtLbs) of torque, which isn't much, so only make them 3/8" wrench tight at most. Your important goal is to tighten the bolts EVENLY, NOT OVERLY-TIGHT. Remember, the head is aluminum. 8) Making sure you have tightened the manifold/head bolts fully FIRST, install the stud nuts and tighten to 38FtLbs. Done. I made this sound more difficult that it actually is in the interest of detail. This is the best (and simplest) way instead of using heat, welding torches, lasers, nuclear breeder reactors, or whatever. The bottom line: bolt-off, bolt-on. Easy. | ||
| Jason McCombs (Jasonmc) Member Username: Jasonmc Post Number: 192 Registered: 06-2003 |
peter thanks for taking the time to write all that out for me. very thourough and i feel confident that i can do it. i do have a torque wrench. (got it for my birthday!  ) so looks like I know what i will be doing next saturday. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 1633 Registered: 02-2002 |
Oh god don't do all that! Drop the other side (its much easier to access) and they will both fall down 6 inches, or do as Peter said (BTW that was Brian who wrote all that) and notch the gasket on the outside, and re-use the studs. | ||
| Jason McCombs (Jasonmc) Member Username: Jasonmc Post Number: 193 Registered: 06-2003 |
Brian, sorry for the miscredit. Dean, my intention was to actually just drop both sides, but i was glad to have the back up instructions on taking the whole manifold off incase i broke, or stripped a stud. when i haven't done something before i like to go into it with some level of confidence based on good instructions. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 1636 Registered: 02-2002 |
If you do drop both sides, just be careful because you might have to undo the O2 sensor connector plugs to give them room, esp the driver's side. The plugs (behind the heads) come apart very easily, unlike most connectors. |
