| Author | Message | ||
     Joe Herrick (Puppy) New Member Username: Puppy Post Number: 14 Registered: 03-2004 |
'99 D ii How troublesome an operation is this? Oh and where can you take used fluid? | ||
| sam (Dent) Member Username: Dent Post Number: 60 Registered: 01-2004 |
not very hard but you will need someone to help pump the brakes as you bleed them... all it pretty much takes is bleeding the lines at the calipers to get rid of air bubbles... most garages will take them.. same place you take your used oil | ||
| eduardo (Jmonsrvr) Member Username: Jmonsrvr Post Number: 112 Registered: 07-2003 |
does anyone have directions for this process and what is exactly needed? i need to do this as well and i have time to do it this weekend...if anyone knows this would be much appreciated | ||
| Joe Herrick (Puppy) New Member Username: Puppy Post Number: 18 Registered: 03-2004 |
Thanks for the response Sam, My service manual has procedures for bleeding the brakes, but I can't find any procedures for completely replacing all the brake fluid in the system. Is replacing the brake fluid completely a normal maintenance task? or do they just need periodic bleeding? | ||
| Dave Statler (Falconx84) Member Username: Falconx84 Post Number: 162 Registered: 02-2004 |
Don't want to hijack the post, but I'll be doing the same thing here pretty soon as my brake fluid lid was loose during a water crossing -- oops. 98 d1 | ||
| eduardo (Jmonsrvr) Member Username: Jmonsrvr Post Number: 115 Registered: 07-2003 |
anyone willing to give us a helping hand on this one....? | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Senior Member Username: Erik Post Number: 322 Registered: 04-2002 |
Eduardo, Recently I changed my fluid from the factory supplied fluid to synthetic stuff. (I can dig it out of my parts box tomorrow if you're interested.) The synthetic fluid is clear, so the replacement job was just a very long bleed operation. I bled each cliper until the fluid was clear and bubble free. Then I went around and did it again, just for good measure. All in all, I think I used two liters of fluid. You could probably do it on less, but I wanted it perfectly clean. You really do need someone to help pump, but far more time is taken jacking and removing wheels than actually bleeding the system. A two-three hour job, max. Procedure is pretty simple. Bleed the right front, then left front, then right rear, then left rear. For each bleed, put some brake fluid in a clean container. Remove the dust cap from the bleed screw on the top of the caliper. Fit a hose to the bleed screw, and run it into the spent fluid container, keeping that end submerged. Have a friend slowly pump on the brake while you open the bleed screw, and let the fluid bleed out into the container. Make very sure to keep the brake fluid reservoir above the min line during the whole procedure. When no more bubbles come out, and the fluid is clean, have your friend hold the brake pedal down while you tighten the bleed screw. Replace dust cap, and move to next tire. | ||
| Matt Cooper (Coops) New Member Username: Coops Post Number: 2 Registered: 04-2004 |
Eduardo, Erik has described it well; it isn't complicated, but it does take a few hours. The only modification I would make would be to use a bleeding kit so that you can do the job by yourself, but it doesn't really matter. A bleeding kit is simply a bit of plastic hose with a non-return valve to go over the bleed screw. You simply point the hose into a container and leave it there while you merrily pump the pedal. Joe, For some vehicles, replacing the brake fluid is on the maintenance schedule for every 2 years, but it doesn't appear on the maintence schedule for my 200Tdi, although it does for my Ford Galaxy (which is actually a VW machine with a Ford badge). In theory it is necessary because brake fluid absorbs water, which could then vapourise under heavy braking, leaving you with compressible vapour in the system and reduced braking response. That said, most people don't bother unless they know or suspect they have a problem. | ||
| Matt Cooper (Coops) New Member Username: Coops Post Number: 3 Registered: 04-2004 |
PS. Don't get any brake fluid on your paintwork... | ||
| eduardo (Jmonsrvr) Member Username: Jmonsrvr Post Number: 119 Registered: 07-2003 |
gotcha on the paint matt...thanks guys i really appreciate it and im sure the others do too...well looks like i will be doing this job the weekend after easter...cheers | ||
| Joe Herrick (Puppy) New Member Username: Puppy Post Number: 20 Registered: 03-2004 |
Matt, Thanks for the guidance. I had originally asked the LR dealership if the brake fluid was normally replaced at the 60k scheduled service, and they said that it was. They might have just been thinking of a bleed, though, since brakes are a scheduled item at 60k anyway. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 1036 Registered: 08-2002 |
Get one of these. They are well worth it and make it easier than if you have two people. http://www.motiveproducts.com/02bleeders.html Get the universal model. I got mine through British Pacific, they will know what you need. | ||
| Matt Cooper (Coops) New Member Username: Coops Post Number: 4 Registered: 04-2004 |
Wow, Bri, I like the bleeder. I'll bet it makes the job a lot quicker and tidier. That said, I like to run my Landie on a shoe-string (one of the best things about Landies is that you can, at least in the UK), so I'd be put off by the price. My simple bit of plastic hose cost me about �3 ($5?), which is more my kind of approach. Another alternative, I noticed is to put an non-return vavle on each corner and leave them there. Take a look at: www.speedbleeder.com However, as its a job for every 60k miles, I'm not sure I'd even spend the $28 for all 4. | ||
| Dave (Plain2000dii) Member Username: Plain2000dii Post Number: 114 Registered: 05-2003 |
"Procedure is pretty simple. Bleed the right front, then left front, then right rear, then left rear." HUM... I was always under the impression that you started from the right rear, left rear, right front, left front. the right rear being the furthest from the MC, is this different for a rover? FWIW, get a motive pressure bleeder, like Tony says, "they're great!" | ||
| Matt Cooper (Coops) New Member Username: Coops Post Number: 6 Registered: 04-2004 |
The type of bleeder I use is just like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2471033708&category=30928 Yours for a whole �1.50 ! (But the others mentioned above are better) As for the sequence, my Land Rover workshop manual confirms that you should start with the corner furthest from your master cylinder and work your way towards it, with the closest last. | ||
| eduardo (Jmonsrvr) Member Username: Jmonsrvr Post Number: 121 Registered: 07-2003 |
ok so what is the correct sequence for bleeding i do not want to do this incorrectly..also if anyone has the pages from the shop manual for this i would appreciate them.. | ||
| Matt Cooper (Coops) New Member Username: Coops Post Number: 7 Registered: 04-2004 |
Eduardo, flip the bonnet and see what corner your master cylinder is in (mine will be different as we drive on the left in the UK). First bleed the rear corner diagonally opposite to the one with the master cyliner. Then the other rear. Then the front corner furthest from the master cylinder. Then the remaining one. | ||
| Joe Herrick (Puppy) New Member Username: Puppy Post Number: 22 Registered: 03-2004 |
Brian, That does look interesting. How does it work? Does it basically vacuum the fluid from the caliper end? | ||
| Joe Herrick (Puppy) New Member Username: Puppy Post Number: 23 Registered: 03-2004 |
Nevermind. I found a good review that describes the product at http://www.motiveproducts.com/euroReview.pdf | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 1042 Registered: 08-2002 |
Bleeading is easy all you need is a hose. Replacing the bled fluid is the PITA for one person, thus the power bleeder. Get one, the one time cost will save you the amount spent in headaches on the first use. Then loan it to all of your rover buddies for a 6pack of beer and it will soon pay for itself. ;-) | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Senior Member Username: Erik Post Number: 324 Registered: 04-2002 |
I got the sequence of RF, LF, RR, LR from the workshop manual of my '00 north-american D2. UK models, and D1's could have a different order. | ||
| Sandy Grice (Apg) Member Username: Apg Post Number: 49 Registered: 02-2003 |
Ah, yes...one of the conundrums of Rover ownership: do you start with the nearest wheel cylinder or the one farthest away? Grease or oil in the swivels? Not sure if the ABS system makes a difference, but on the Series Rover, I always went nearest to farthest.... Erik...you mentioned using 'synthetic' fluid. I hope you don't mean silicone, as it sin't wise to mix fluids. What brand/flavor is this synthetic fluid? I also made a pressure bleeder for $2. Took a 1 qt garden (pressure) sprayer and with a bit of hose and a brass hose barb (the $2 part) secured it to the plastic reservoir cap used on dual master brake system on Series III vehicles. Same size fits the older 'soup can' brake/clutch reservoir AND the cap on the ABS system on Discos. Some things never change.... I can pressure bleed the system all by myself. Keep a close eye on the fluid level...if air gets into the ABS pump, you have a whole bunch of new problems.... Cheers | ||
| Erik G. Burrows (Erik) Senior Member Username: Erik Post Number: 325 Registered: 04-2002 |
I'm using Valvoline SynPower brake fluid. "Exceedes DOT 3 and DOT 4". No mention of silicone anywhere on the bottle. |
