| Author | Message | ||
     jay caragay (Jcaragay) Member Username: Jcaragay Post Number: 173 Registered: 02-2002 |
Well, the auto transmission in the 95 D1 took a new turn today as I was pulling into my driveway. A loud CLONK and that was it - front driveshaft is history. If I am not mistaken, the disco has an open diff that places power to the least resistance meaning that with the front shaft disconnected all the power is being sent futilely to the front and the disco goes nowhere? Any thoughts on culprits (especially considering the shuddering that seemed like trans problems)? How about thoughts on a replacement drive shaft? Thanks! | ||
| jay caragay (Jcaragay) Member Username: Jcaragay Post Number: 174 Registered: 02-2002 |
Here's a pic of the shaft.  | ||
| Rick Clarke (Tugcap) Member Username: Tugcap Post Number: 68 Registered: 02-2002 |
With the CDL engaged you should get power to both front and rear axles, 50/50. Not recommending you drive it, but its possible. | ||
| Rick Clarke (Tugcap) Member Username: Tugcap Post Number: 69 Registered: 02-2002 |
http://68.49.112.94/shafts/tomwdriveshaft.html | ||
| max garcia (Max_n_erica) Member Username: Max_n_erica Post Number: 60 Registered: 02-2003 |
Hi Jay The culprit was a bad u-joint. Be glad you weren't on the freeway. Replace the shaft and you should be good to go. Good luck Max | ||
| Peter J Blatt (Peteb) Senior Member Username: Peteb Post Number: 364 Registered: 10-2002 |
WOW Have you had any vibes before that catostophic failure? | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 1629 Registered: 02-2002 |
Jay, Many people drive on one shaft for a while. For example, some people send a diff to be changed and while its being done they lock the CDL and remove the corresponding shaft, and drive like that. Just go easy on the remaining shaft. | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 1050 Registered: 08-2002 |
Yep. If you need to take the cheap bastard approach call around to a few mechanics and find out who in the area they take their driveshafts to. Take it down there with the broken parts and see if he can set you up. Or go GBR. Dean is right, you can do that. Brian | ||
| jay caragay (Jcaragay) Member Username: Jcaragay Post Number: 175 Registered: 02-2002 |
Thanks guys for your input. Luckily I was just arriving home! As far as vibrations, I've been feeling slight, shuddering vibrations on acceleration and at-speed driving that felt like the "clutch" was slipping in the transmission. It grew progressively worse with heavier shaking and finally this event. What I'm concerned about is if this might be endemic to a more serious problem? Perhaps problems with the transmission that would promote failure of the U-joint? Or are U-joint problems simply something that happens to the D1? Thanks again. | ||
| jay caragay (Jcaragay) Member Username: Jcaragay Post Number: 176 Registered: 02-2002 |
Also, some of you have posted about the GBR shaft and the Tom Woods Shaft, or rebuilding. Is there any advantage of one over the other? I'm going to move quickly since I need to leave for Atlanta in less than two weeks! Thanks! | ||
| Steve Turpin (Steveturpin) Member Username: Steveturpin Post Number: 68 Registered: 01-2004 |
I have a Tom Woods shaft on the front of my D2...it is built like a tank and has servicable joints on both ends, and no vibration problems...I think I will get one for the back as well...it was about $350 shipped. | ||
| Beau Campbell (Bcampbe7) New Member Username: Bcampbe7 Post Number: 31 Registered: 03-2004 |
Jay- I am not too familiar with the DI driveshaft, but have become rather familiar with the DII front driveshaft. I think the DI is basically the same, no greasible u-joints in the double cardon end. I recently had the same vibration as you describe. I took the driveshaft out and to make a long story short, I am calling Bill at GBR to order a new driveshaft. Some in this group will say that driveshaft failure is uncommon, I on the other hand feel it is a manufacturer's defect. Why they put non-greasible u-joints next the cats and transfer case I will never know. Interestingly though, my wife and I also have a Nissan Altima and this morning it needed serviced at the dealer. A guy in front of me had a new Nissan Crew Cab truck and was getting an oil change. He asked the service person if they would also grease the u-joints and whatever else. The service tech informed him that they do not have greasible u-joints. I was thinking, man that is a bad idea. I wanted to tell the guy to go ahead and start looking for replacements, but I held back. Beau | ||
| Blue (Blue) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Blue Post Number: 1492 Registered: 04-2003 |
D1 uj's are greasable | ||
| Brian Dickens (Bri) Senior Member Username: Bri Post Number: 1053 Registered: 08-2002 |
A new or near new DS from GBR or TW is likely around 300-350. Once you have one of these if you bust a U joint (more likely from hitting something stationary vs failure) then you can have a Ujoint or flange fixed, as well as a repaint and balance for around $30. Plus the DS are more heavy duty than factory. So I would call around and see how much you might be able to fix it for andweigh your options. The GBR front DS is also easier to service as well, i.e. is greasable and has a nice spacer that also makes removal easier. | ||
| max garcia (Max_n_erica) Member Username: Max_n_erica Post Number: 62 Registered: 02-2003 |
Jay That is how it feels when the u-joint goes. Pull the drive shaft and drive it around the block and see how it feels, your vibrations should be gone. when you call to see the price of fixing the old one make sure that you tell them to include balanceing. Max | ||
| Bob Shinn (Bshinn) Member Username: Bshinn Post Number: 156 Registered: 01-2004 |
Jay, Just went through the same thing w/ my D2. Drove w/ the diff locked for 4-5 days. Got mine redone locally for $130.00 (just new joints). Was told that yolks are not available (for D2 anyway) so you might need to call GBR or Tom Woods. Beau, Funny, now that I think about it I had to spec greasable u-joints, the guys @ the shop insisted that the new Spicer "Lifetime" joints were the way to go. | ||
| jay caragay (Jcaragay) Member Username: Jcaragay Post Number: 177 Registered: 02-2002 |
Thanks guys for the info. Tried locking the CDL today but the darn level wouldn't budge. I'm hoping this isn't worse. Probably will order a new drive shaft tomorrow and install later this week and then see what's up. Is there a big difference between a Great Basin Shaft or a Tom Woods Shaft? Thanks! |
