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Felix Gumbiner (Felixthecat)
Member Username: Felixthecat
Post Number: 110 Registered: 02-2004
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2004 - 09:24 pm: |
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Guys -- This morning I went to open the driver's side door, and for some reason the damn thing won't open. I pull the latch out, and it seems to pull out a bit further then the other doors, and instead of catching whatever mechanism inside the door it makes a "click" and refuses to open. No matter how I jiggle or push or pull, it just refuses to do anything. What do you guys think? There doesn't appear to be an easy way to open up the exterior handle housing. It's damn frustrating, I hope you guys have some insights! Felix |
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Chris Nuzum (Cnuzum)
Member Username: Cnuzum
Post Number: 127 Registered: 02-2003
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2004 - 09:56 pm: |
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Put your key in the door and turn in to the Unlock position, Then you will be able to open the door. Mine's been doing the same thing lately. Time for a new door handle unless someone knows how to adjust/tighten up the latch system.
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Felix Gumbiner (Felixthecat)
Member Username: Felixthecat
Post Number: 111 Registered: 02-2004
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2004 - 10:06 pm: |
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No dice.  |
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Jeff Mclaird (Granitedisco)
Senior Member Username: Granitedisco
Post Number: 319 Registered: 08-2003
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2004 - 10:13 pm: |
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I dunno about adjusting the latch system - but mine was doing the same thing a while back. A judicious supply of WD40 and some wangling of the locks put the thing to rights. However if you are really adventurous and you feel that the lock rods may have been loosened - you can pull of the door panel (try not to destroy anything) - there should be a number of threaded rods - you can check to see if any are loose or if the locking nuts are loose - if so adjust until the door locking mechanism works to your satisfaction p.s. don't forget to adjust the 'lock nut' afterwards. FWIW mine seemed to operate fine after a few squirts with WD into the lock and into the keyhole - along with the usual lock/unlock on the key. Hope that helps regards Jeff |
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Ethan Makarowski (Ethan)
Member Username: Ethan
Post Number: 50 Registered: 04-2003
| Posted on Saturday, April 10, 2004 - 11:03 pm: |
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Jeff may have the right idea depending on the problem. If so, check the tech section on door handle adjustment... it explains in depth how to properly adjust the latching mechanism. Good luck, EM |
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Tom Owen (Tomowen)
New Member Username: Tomowen
Post Number: 1 Registered: 04-2004
| Posted on Sunday, April 11, 2004 - 12:03 am: |
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My 96 DI has done the smae thingoff and on. I shot WD-40 on the pin/post (?) and in the mechanism in the door. Worked fine for a while then came back This time I used a silicon spray and have had no problems. Throw a small can in the crate in the back and shoot it when it starts to get sticky... Hope it helps, T |
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Felix Gumbiner (Felixthecat)
Member Username: Felixthecat
Post Number: 112 Registered: 02-2004
| Posted on Sunday, April 11, 2004 - 12:22 am: |
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Thanks guys, I'll try the WD40 tomorrow. |
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Kris Carlquist (Kris_carlquist)
New Member Username: Kris_carlquist
Post Number: 35 Registered: 09-2003
| Posted on Sunday, April 11, 2004 - 01:28 am: |
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I think part of the problem also lies with wear in the hinges. As the hinges wear, the door begins to drag on the strike post, making it difficult to open. You will probably notice the most wear on the driver's door (with the door open, lift up on the back of the door, if you feel any play you probably need to adjust your hinges). I went through all of my doors, and using a block of wood carefully placed in the lower hinge, I push on the door a few times. Over time the hinges wear slightly allowing the door to sag and this technique bends the lower hinge just enough to get the door off the strike post. Use this technique at your own risk, if you go to far on the hinge, you can create problems. I used to work in a body shop, and this is the most common technique we used to adjust sticky doors. Eventually it will get bad enough that you will need a new pin and possibly a whole new hinge. The wood trick works great, you just have to be careful. Frankly, I don't like to use much lube on door mechanisms. The inside of your doors and your hinges are fairly exposed to the weather and most lubricants will work for a while, until they evaporate leaving only a sticky residue that attracts dirt and grit. |
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Rick Clarke (Tugcap)
Member Username: Tugcap
Post Number: 70 Registered: 02-2002
| Posted on Sunday, April 11, 2004 - 10:15 am: |
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The door latches are a frustrating and signature quirk of the disco. Like Lucas wiring of older series I guess. If you lower the window,remove the armrest, then the small palstic trim piece around the inner door handle, then pry the trim piece where the window goes down, you can very carefully pry the inner door panel from the door. There is a flat lever tool made to prevent you breaking the little plastic fasteners, but if you are careful with a flat tool you will manage. I ended up actually pulling a few away from the foam, but they glued back on NP. Disconnect speaker wire b4 walking away with the panel. The plastic film pulls away (use care so you can replace when done) Now a good light, long thin tools and a mirror will let you see the threaded metal rods that adjust the pulls inside/out. There is little 'safety' latches that first are opened to adjust the rods. I think they must stretch over time/use. They also seem to expand/contract alot with temp. If you search you will find lots of posts where door latch operation relates directly to temp. Good luck, it took me 4 tries to adjust correctly. Not difficult, but annoying. Had the door apart lots of times. The red fasteners are replaceable if you break. |