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Richard S. Warburton (Warburtonr)
Member
Username: Warburtonr

Post Number: 52
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Monday, April 12, 2004 - 10:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Trying to get some feedback:

I finished wiring the CDL actuator on my 99 D2(went with the AMV version). So......while it's still on jacks, I'm playing with the switch, and like clockwork, it engages, I get the dash lights, all is great. Then, I go for a drive, and it doesn't want to engage with any frequency. I put it back on jacks and test. The switch is working, but the diff lock isn't engaging until I turn the wheels or driveshaft. That makes complete sense.

So I take it for a non-pavement test drive, and the CDL engages sometimes immediately, sometimes after driving 50 ft. I don't think this is unusual, but I'm wondering if it should be engaging more reliably and more immediately. I get the same results with disengaging also.

So I'm wondering - all of those that use their CDL's on D2's, actuated through whatever means, are you experiencing this same lag? I know it's not a switch issue, but an internal t-case issue. I just don't know if it's normal or I have a sticking issue with the CDL clutch dog inside the t-case.
 

Rick Neff (Lostinboston)
Senior Member
Username: Lostinboston

Post Number: 406
Registered: 06-2003
Posted on Monday, April 12, 2004 - 10:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Yes its normal. IT usually helps to put everything in neutral while engaging it. There is some windup in the transfer case which is why the DCL isnt engaging right away. Rocking it back anf forth helps also.
 

Randy Maynard (Rans)
Senior Member
Username: Rans

Post Number: 811
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Monday, April 12, 2004 - 11:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Richard, I am considering changing my current method of CDL engagement. Can you point me to this AMV method so I can include it in my decisions? Thanks.

Oh, I agree with what Rick says.
 

Joe Herrick (Puppy)
New Member
Username: Puppy

Post Number: 28
Registered: 03-2004
Posted on Monday, April 12, 2004 - 11:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

What are some of the options available? I'm considering going with a D1 shifter mostly because it doesn't look aftermarket. Any pros and cons to the other options?
 

Curtis N (Curtis)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Curtis

Post Number: 1372
Registered: 05-2002
Posted on Monday, April 12, 2004 - 11:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Richard - IIRC, as you move the CDL it is using this little "cross" in the t-case to push a gear from one gear set to another. Your light will not come on or off until this gear is fully seated on that selected set. Sometimes this is immediate and others it takes a few turns of the wheels.
 

Richard S. Warburton (Warburtonr)
Member
Username: Warburtonr

Post Number: 53
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Monday, April 12, 2004 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the feedback - it appears I don't have anything to be concerned about. My only point of reference on the previous t-case was manually engaging the CDL and running without a front driveshaft, so I didn't have much to compare to.

Randy and Joe:
This actuator came from http//www.amv.com.au/ and uses an electric motor to engage the CDL. GBR sells a similar unit, but it uses an electric solenoid to make the engagement. The AMV unit, it is said, can be installed from underneath the vehicle, while the GBR requires removal of the console from what I've read. I installed mine prior to having my replacement t-case installed, but just connecting the wiring from underneath required patience and a lot of articulation. I suppose it can be installed from underneath, but it will require some time and some patience. And you'll have to cut an allen wrench shorter to reach the rear motor bolt. There was a post a few months ago from someone who installed one, and there is a write-up in the tech section for installing the GBR solenoid. The AMV switch panel is slick - it replaces the coin tray and looks factory. Also, it has a blank in it that will accommodate the same type of switch that is used in the instrument binnacle.

I can't comment on the reliability of either unit; I would be curious to hear from someone who has used either actuator about the durability and reliability of these.
 

Thomas Bielecki (Bielecki)
New Member
Username: Bielecki

Post Number: 13
Registered: 04-2003
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2004 - 12:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I've had similar problems of excessive engaging/disengaing lag on mine. And I know it's excessive from my experience with my D90 and my old D1. Sometimes it has taken 100 yards of pulling the handbrake and reversing.

I have actually experienced the CDL being engaged and the CDL light being off, so I don't trust the light fully anymore. Seems odd, I never experienced this on any of my other Rovers. Either way, I do some spins on the pavement now when I'm getting of the trail just to be sure.
 

Greg Davis (Gregdavis)
Senior Member
Username: Gregdavis

Post Number: 1190
Registered: 08-2002
Posted on Tuesday, April 13, 2004 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I made my own linkage over two years ago and have never had a single problem. It allows you to engage on the fly in Hi range or Lo range, and only cost about $25 in parts plus a little time to make it.

The instructions and crude drawing are in the Tech section under Disco 2 CDL Lever.

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