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Abraham (Roverthen)
New Member
Username: Roverthen

Post Number: 28
Registered: 12-2003
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 12:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I got a '00 DII with 80k miles that's giving me some problems. I drove it today and suddenly I feel the engine misfire. It seemed to get worse the more I drove. I stopped and checked the sparks plugs which are two weeks old(Champion) and cables. I thought it might have been the MAF but after installing a new one the 'Check Engine' light starts to flash. I put the old MAF back.
The codes I get are P0734, P0733, P0306, P1300. FYI I always use 93 octane, just in case. I am almost convinced I have either a stuck or bent valve from the codes and misfire. Not really sure.
Anyone had this problem??
I'm just about ready to take it in to the dealer($$$$$) and get it over with but I'm hoping for some suggestions first.
 

Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d)
Senior Member
Username: Deanbrown3d

Post Number: 1671
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 07:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Sounds like the new MAF could be just telling your ecu with more certainty that there is a problem. Are the fault codes a superset of the existing ones now?

If the new MAF is fucked, try putting in a MAF that actually works. It does sound like the sensor could be blocked or dirty. Borrow one from someone else if you get a chance, just to test if that is the problem. You can undo the battery to reset the codes before you start up again.
 

Abraham (Roverthen)
New Member
Username: Roverthen

Post Number: 29
Registered: 12-2003
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 07:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Dean the 'MAF that actually works'? The one I switched out was a new one I bought yesterday at the LR dealer. That didn't change anything even after reseting the 'Check Engine' light.
 

Steve Turpin (Steveturpin)
Member
Username: Steveturpin

Post Number: 76
Registered: 01-2004
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 09:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Have you had any head/valve jobs done before...a lot of folks have had multiple valve jobs by 80k, so you'll probably need head work done. Hopefully you don't have the dreaded slipped cylinder sleeve...mine did and I had to have a new short block installed along with the head work. I'm not sure why a lot of folks are not getting many miles out of these motors...
 

Frank Battersby (Frank84)
New Member
Username: Frank84

Post Number: 28
Registered: 10-2003
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 09:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Abraham - my '99 DII had the same symptoms and needed a valve job at 78k - the dealer did it and said they did something to prevent carbon buildup - we're now at 130k and no problems yet
 

eric johnson (Eric2)
Senior Member
Username: Eric2

Post Number: 340
Registered: 05-2003
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Check your engine harness wiring and /or the wires and connections at the MAF. Get the engine running and start wiggling.
Before you have any serious work done, try to get it tested by a shop that has the Test Book system.It does more to help troubleshoot problems.

 

Abraham (Roverthen)
New Member
Username: Roverthen

Post Number: 30
Registered: 12-2003
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Steve, I don't know when or if it ever had the heads done. I only had this truck for 6 months now.

Frank, do you remember how much the dealer charged for the valve job?
 

Steve Turpin (Steveturpin)
Member
Username: Steveturpin

Post Number: 78
Registered: 01-2004
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2004 - 12:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

You might be able to have a dealer lookup the history on your truck...if it was dealer serviced. I think the average cost for a dealer valve job runs around $1200...cheaper if they are doing other engine work, like swapping out the block, as in my case...

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