| Author |
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Michael Duckworth
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2002 - 08:08 am: | 
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I am strongly considering a 73 Series III or a 95 RR. I am familiar with the RR, however do not know much about the Series III. I was wondering the following:
1) Regular 2.2 liter engine without overdrive - how fast can I expect it to go?
2) Overdrives - are the difficult to install and any estimate on cost?
3) How much rust is acceptable? The one I am looking at has some rust on the frame, however I have only been able to look at pictures.
4) Any other advice on buying a Series III without having the ability to view first hand would be greatly appreciated?
Thanks,
Michael |
LR Max
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2002 - 02:47 pm: |
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73 Series 3 vs. 95 RR.....
Well, a non-overdrive 2.25 will max. out at around 55 mph. When I say max. out, I mean the thing sounds like its going to throw a rod or something. Some people can get a bit more out of their engines, but that is a very common stock figure.
An overdrive is a good investment. You can get a used one for about 600 bucks. But these usually have already seen their better days. The older ones are noisy and if it is really bad then it will be an ear piercing sound. It is worth the extra 400~500 bucks to buy a brand new overdrive from Wise owl. Check out their website.
Acceptable rust, well, it is only acceptable if it is a very small patch and is surface rust. The only way to find out is to beat it with a hammer. This is the only way to tell if it is sound. Of course if it is only surface rust, then there is probably more rust somewhere and you should look hard to find it.
Other advice would be to go look at the truck. Listen to all of the little noises it makes and then decide. Check compression to see if there is something wrong with the engine. Also see when the Carb. was last rebuilt/replaced. If it has never then it is probably time for a new one. If it has the 32" tires on it (7.50R16) then it will have difficulty achieving highway speeds. I would suggest trying to find someone in your area to come with you to look at the truck. Then a accurate assesment can be made.
Max T. |
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 16, 2002 - 03:25 pm: |
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Michael,
1) It's not so much how fast the 2.25L will take you, but at what point you will be uncomfortable... much over 60mph, and you'll feel like you're careening down the tarmac...
2) For a really clean Fairey, expect ~$1200; for a new one, you'll be looking at $1500... like Max said, one for less has already seen it's better days. I wouldn't expect to find a Santana or a Toro anymore, but again, as Max said, Ray Woods' is an option.
3) You have to get under there with a hammer. Whack the frame. Hard. If it is a solid frame, it'll ring, wherever you hit it. If the hammer thunks, or penetrates, then you know that it's only time 'til you are getting a new frame.
Often, the bulkhead outriggers, front frame horns, rear crossmember, can be / have been replaced. And likewise, even the sides of the main chassis rails can be patched. But, these efforts just buy you time. Chassis are available, though.... check the bulkhead! Footwells, doorposts, around the mudshields and around the vents.... again, it can all be repaired, but, if the bulkhead isn't sound, it'll be a lot of catch-up work.
Also, with a SIII, the rear tub is VERY likely to have a LOT of corrosion... check down the sides, at the rivets, and in the bed... both the floor of the rear tub, and along the seats... there are steel braces that were added to SIII Rovers that weren't on SIIa Rovers.... the steel/aluminum contact causes corrosion over time. (I'm replacing my SIII rear-tub w/ a SIIa tub for this very reason, BTW).
4) Honest truth: unless it's REALLY cheap, or you have the extra money to gamble with, don't. Seriously.... I was in a similar situation as you now are, I really wanted a Series, found one that I thought I could afford but was several states away, saw lots of pics and asked lots of questions... and while in retrospect, the pics and questions were answered honestly, they still didn't tell the whole story. I should have held off, and saved longer, and bought a nicer one, one that I had seen and looked over in person. IMHO, you really NEED to go and SEE the Rover in person, and preferrably with someone who knows Rovers with you, if you're not buying from a reputable Rover business...
IMHO, FWIW, YMMV, caveat emptor.....
Good luck!
-Leslie |
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