| Author | Message | ||
     Corey (Discobro) Member Username: Discobro Post Number: 127 Registered: 12-2002 |
Looking at possibly buying my neigbors LR. Can anyone tell me what model this is? I'm new to the Series scene, sorry! (BTW - same thread as posted in Disco tech area)  | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 524 Registered: 03-2002 |
I'm new too, but that looks like a Series III 88. Start here: Series History | ||
| David Gage (Davidg) Member Username: Davidg Post Number: 128 Registered: 02-2002 |
Series 3 NADA, approx 1972. I will bet it has 15" wheels David | ||
| Corey (Discobro) Member Username: Discobro Post Number: 132 Registered: 12-2002 |
Does anyone have any experience with the SIII? What are they worth in this kind of condition? It needs a lot of work (mostly interior) but the body is straight and engine runs good. I'm sure it will need some TLC with the rust issue, but I haven't actually looked that close. The electrical parts are all original so I would end up rewiring everything. The driver side window is plexiglass (what was he thinking?) so obviously that would need replaced also. Any ideas or is this a money pit? | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Senior Member Username: Leslie Post Number: 1958 Registered: 02-2002 |
Corey, the argument could be made that any Land Rover is a money pit..... Need more info to help. Does it drive well? Brake well? How rusty is the chassis? How about the floorboards and door pillars of the bulkhead? Currently my SIII is in bits, and will (hopefully) start going the other way soon. Check the rear tub and the seat box for aluminum corrosion. Also check the bottom of the breakfast, too. You could probably get it on the road for nothing, or, you could spend $10k on it... however you want to go.... -L | ||
| SF (Alacrity) New Member Username: Alacrity Post Number: 2 Registered: 03-2003 |
They are extremely simple and forgiving to work on. Shouldnt be much of an interior, compared to a modern car. Interior stuff for SerIII, other than the dash, isnt that expensive or hard to find, esp if you're not afraid to ring the UK. If you're confident you can handle the wiring, nothing else will give you much trouble. Buy the best Rover you can afford. Invariably cheaper than buying a wreck and "re-habbing". I literally spent years searching for the right one for my first Series. I saw far too many money pit or "Ive lost interest" sales to settle for one cheap or nearby. As has been indicated, frame and bulkhead are the weak spots, and they can be costly. Depending where you are, and what kind of deal you stumble onto, a SWB frame over will run you $3-$4k, perhaps a bit less, more likely more. They both can and often do rust from the inside out. If the frames shot, normally the bulkhead is as well, though not necessarily. Crawl around underneath with a awl and a rubber mallet and you'll find out quick the state of your foundation. OVLR has some good info here on -What to look for http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.look_for.html Always thought Bayou Jim had a wealth of dirty hands information here. http://www.bayourovers.com/index2.html As far as price, check LRX.com, Rovers North board and list and E-bay will give you a feel. Obviously impossible to say much about your particular prospect without seeing it first hand. Rule of thumb, it will cost twice as much and take four times as long as you estimate. Keep that in mind and you'll be fine. Luck Alac | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Senior Member Username: Leslie Post Number: 1961 Registered: 02-2002 |
Alec, That's awfully high for a frame... an 88" frame should be closer to $1500... http://www.thatchedroofgarage.com/Parts.htm#Chassis Oh! Did you mean a Rover that needs a frame-over? Then I agree, but think that's still high... if it needs a frame, I'd keep it to $2k... if the frame is solid, it runs, but isn't pretty and needs lots of little things, then $4k is more reasonable. If it's clean and a good driver as-is, $6k is fair. (that doesn't look to be a $4k Rover, FWIW).... But.... I do like the idea of finding one under your nose and "rescuing" it though... No matter what, have fun.....  -L | ||
| SF (Alacrity) New Member Username: Alacrity Post Number: 3 Registered: 03-2003 |
I am ambiguous by nature, not intent. I meant the full cost of a frameover, including not just the frame itself, but costs you'll likely incur and the ship-fitting you will do. Hardware, bushings, fluids, tools you dont have, things you loose, things that break, are bad or you grind off - it adds up quick. If you decide you need shocks, springs, U-joints, brakes, or get a real bad case of ship-fitters, it'll be worse. You can squeak by (maybe) at $2k if all you must do is the frame itself. Never works out that way though. "...where you are..." in my above post should have read " how close you are to "David-at-TRG", as that was what I was thinking. Odd you thought the same thing. Proximity to a supplier will greatly reduce the cost of a frame. But once you throw in crating and shipping its edging near $2000, if not more. I'm with you, on the assessment, it does not appear to be a $4k Rover. But photos are a poor way to judge vehicles. As far as "Rover Rescue", Im inclined to agree. You pick up a lot of strays that way. The only thing that will save you in the end is a dearth of storage space. | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Senior Member Username: Leslie Post Number: 1965 Registered: 02-2002 |
Again, not knowing the condition means we're taking blind shots here, but if you check out David's "specials" page, http://www.thatchedroofgarage.com/Specials.htm there you can see that a chassis, parabolic springs, shocks, etc., are available together as a package for a good price; shipping is by freight that David has arranged, so it doesn't cost as much as one might think. Given that David's shop is 15 minutes from my home here, 6 miles as the crow flies, he's the first one that always comes to mind for Series Rovers.... -L | ||
| SF (Alacrity) New Member Username: Alacrity Post Number: 4 Registered: 03-2003 |
Very handy. I'd sure like to look at stuff before I order it blindly. I dont want to leave the impression Im quibbling, Leslie. Just trying to take into account Corey is in Oregon and, although we are taking blind shots here, realizing Im on the high side when discussing possibilties. It may be the frame is just cherry, but somehow I doubt it. If it needs a bit of work, a bit of welding is not out of the question either. Corey, not trying to put you off on the Rover, just give it a thorough going over and make sure your offer is fair for the condition. | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Senior Member Username: Leslie Post Number: 1970 Registered: 02-2002 |
Oh, I wholly agree, no quibling at all... if it just needs an outrigger or a rear crossmember, that'd be a lot cheaper and a lot less work than a frame-over. But, if it is bad but someone wants a project that has potential to be sound afterwards, it'd be nice to have a new backbone for it.... -L PS: Corey, tell us more about it! | ||
| Javier Velador (Jvelador) Member Username: Jvelador Post Number: 143 Registered: 02-2002 |
So, who do you guys recommend in the West Coast for a new frame... other than BP? Javier | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Senior Member Username: Leslie Post Number: 1979 Registered: 02-2002 |
Javier, I'd say that, shipping included, David would come out cheaper than anyone on the West Coast.... BP is the only one I know of that's reasonable out there... Up in WA there's a shop, but they're overpriced IMHO. Shop around, and I doubt that you'll find a better deal than TRG.... -L | ||
| SF (Alacrity) New Member Username: Alacrity Post Number: 6 Registered: 03-2003 |
Another option, if you're not in a hurry, is to watch for a private sale in your neck of the woods. Worked for me. Probably save a bit as well. Then again it may never appear. What about Wise Owl. Never dealt with them but they are nearer to W than E no? I am very interested in the cost of shipping a frame if anyone has recent experience. Not long ago I had some aplletized amterials not related to Land Rovers shipped from the west coast. Cost me $300 odd per pallet roughly. I'd love to find cheaper shipping. I have to figure a chassis to the west coast from Tn or points farther east is $4-500. If anyone can point me in the direction of cheaper shippers (barring Pool) I'd love to know. And yes Corey we'd love to hear more. | ||
| Javier Velador (Jvelador) Member Username: Jvelador Post Number: 144 Registered: 02-2002 |
Thanks, Leslie... Now to get the wife to warm up to the idea. SF, a buddy that lives 30 mi away was selling a full rolling chassis: engine, tramy, frame, springs, the works for $1500. Talk about bad timing, I was unemployed at the time. Corey, you're in good hands here. Follow their advice and don't let your emotions take control (as it pertains to buying a Series, at least). Good luck | ||
| R. B. Bailey (Rover50987) Senior Member Username: Rover50987 Post Number: 455 Registered: 07-2002 |
Corey- I have my Series II pretty much done, as it concerns the exterior and mechanical stuff. It is a lot of fun to drive, not "nice" to drive, but fun. And it will be greatly improved with interior trim - which the SIII should have already. I have spent a total of $4000.00 or so on the work. I bought it for $3900.00 in "running" condition. Check out my web site for a more extensive list of exactly what I have done, including photos. And email me again for any help, especially if you need me to introduce you to Doug at Ship's - I need to keep making him think that I'm getting him customers so he will keep giving me good prices! http://landrover.mrbaileyshistory.net |
