| Author | Message | ||
     _JC_ (_jc_) New Member Username: _jc_ Post Number: 4 Registered: 03-2003 |
I've found an early Series II (not IIA) 88 LHD with a gasoline engine. The vehicle is complete, aside from a missing front mirror on the drivers side fender. The driver's side fender has a dent that seem to be an easy fix, the rest of the panels on the truck are straight, no dents! The inner doors and windscreen frame have some rust, and the footwells have some rust too, however there is no rot, just surface stuff. The frame and springs have rust, but again no evident rot, just surface stuff. The tub is perfectly straight and corrosion free. All of the badges, knobs, and gauges are inplace, as well as all the lights. The engine is in tremendous shape, and there is no corriosion, even the hoses look good, no cracks, the owner said it ran great the last time it was driven. It has original rust/dent free steel wheels, 15" I think. All the trucks seems to need would be some sand blasting and new paint,new cushions, and soft top and it would be good to go. That's about it, oh yea, the truck only has 47,000 miles. I can probably get this truck for $800-$1200. So is this a good deal, or average for this kinda truck. Thanks! JC | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Senior Member Username: Ron Post Number: 269 Registered: 04-2001 |
BUY IT! Oh wait no, give me the number of the seller, I will talk some sense into him. Ron | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Senior Member Username: Leslie Post Number: 2062 Registered: 02-2002 |
Location? (The vultures are circling.....  ) -L | ||
| _JC_ (_jc_) New Member Username: _jc_ Post Number: 5 Registered: 03-2003 |
If this makes any difference, after doing some research I am not sure whether this is a Series II, or a very early IIA, is there a sure way to tell. Still a good deal? | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 575 Registered: 03-2002 |
Don't hesitate, find out later which model. Just walk in with $1000 cash and walk away with the rig.....{...NNNNnnnewman...} | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Senior Member Username: Leslie Post Number: 2063 Registered: 02-2002 |
From your description, it does sound like a good deal. Some differences are: SII used round knobs to turn a screw-mechanism to open the scuttle vents, whereas a SIIa was where it switched to the more-typical lever system. A SII has the horn button on an arm sticking off the column, and the turn-signal switch is on the dash instead of sticking off the column. A SII has a flatter, angled apron panel at the front (between the wings, behind the bumper, in front of the breakfast), whereas the SIIa has a rounded panel there. It really makes little difference for most people between the two. Some feel that the Rover quality of the SII was at its peak, and some of its more unique features are interesting. However, some SII engine parts are like hens' teeth to find, they're known to leak at the rear main seal, etc. Nothing fatal for the vehicle, per se, you can easily put a SIIa engine in instead, but just something to deal with. If there was a rough SII sitting beside a clean SIIa for the same money, I'd take the SIIa. But if there was a clean SII sitting beside a rough, or even a clean SIIa, for similar money, I'd take the SII, just because it's a little older, a little more unique. IMHO, FWIW.... -L | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Senior Member Username: Ron Post Number: 270 Registered: 04-2001 |
". A SII has a flatter, angled apron panel at the front (between the wings, behind the bumper, in front of the breakfast), whereas the SIIa has a rounded panel there." There are actually three apron panels, one with a galvanized strip then a similar flat panel without the galvanized strip and then the rounded panel. The flat panel survived at least into 1964 so it is not a good SII/SIIa differentiator. Ron | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Senior Member Username: Leslie Post Number: 2077 Registered: 02-2002 |
Really? Interesting...... learning all the time! -L | ||
| TPH (Snowman) Senior Member Username: Snowman Post Number: 384 Registered: 12-2002 |
Also some S-II's had a 2.0L Petrol V. 2.25L, just something he should know when ordering parts for the engine. It seems like a nice find IMHO, wish it was near me. S- | ||
| Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly) Member Username: L_tilly Post Number: 135 Registered: 02-2002 |
Wow...people really do come across Series rigs in the $1000 range? I have talked to a couple people with the "found it in a barn...only $750" story, but those always seemed too good to be true. I'm a couple years out from starting my hunt for a Series, but I hope there's still one sitting in a barn or field somewhere when my time comes. Lawrence lnctilly@metrocast.net 96 Disco "Beowulf" NH, USA | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Senior Member Username: Leslie Post Number: 2123 Registered: 02-2002 |
I know of two sitting in a barn right now.... problem is, the guy thinks he's sitting on a goldmine, but they're POSs... they're not worth $1k for either one... oh well.... Always remember, chassis and bulkhead.... if they're sound, it's worth something, if not, it's gonna be a rebuild... Okay, headin' out the door.... See y'all there, or here on Monday... -L | ||
| Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly) Member Username: L_tilly Post Number: 137 Registered: 02-2002 |
My main concern would be for a solid bulkhead and a decent engine. Part of my secret Series budget is a new frame and suspension and redo of the electric. Beyond those items I'd hope to be able make use of everything else for at least a while. I have only shopped around a little on parts to get an idea and it looks like the above would cost me about $3k. When the time comes I'm going to look hard for (probably) a IIA or III that meets those goals in the $1,500 or less range. That would let me bring in the basic project for $5k with some money left for the unforseen... -Lawrence | ||
| Ike Goss (Leafsprung) New Member Username: Leafsprung Post Number: 22 Registered: 03-2003 |
Bad Idea. Buying rusty trucks is pointless UNLESS they have some extras like a winch OR you get them for nothing (500 or less) Budgeting to buy a frame is silly and a waste of money. Consider that you can find rust free runners for 2500-4000 (sometimes less). Why not spend a little more initially and save yourself the agony of cutting every bolt off the truck? Unless you have a truck that needs a frame and you are sentimental about OR you want to build a custom frame, frame swaps suck and are expensive. Once the frame is gone, expect the doors, bulkhead seatbox, and body to have corrosion as well. . . yuck. Plus you'll have 5K in a pile of rust and some parts before you turn a wrench. That would buy some awesome trucks straight out. -Regards -Ike Goss | ||
| Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly) Member Username: L_tilly Post Number: 141 Registered: 02-2002 |
Good points, Ike. I live in NH and when I picked up my 96 Disco a couple years ago all of its bolts are so siezed I already need to torch / cut everything. I have only looked at a couple Series rigs for sale in this area (not seriously shopping yet) and up here at least frame rust seems to be part of the package. It's not that I was looking-forward to a frame-off, but I was figuring if I'm probably gonna have to do it anyway I might as well plan for it. The few I've seen for sale without frame-rust issues were either already replaced or so well maintained the asking price was about 7k. That's not much less than my Disco is worth and far more than I could justify on a second Rover. I guess I'll start setting my sights a little higher though and see what can really be had for $3k - $4k. I know Rovers North is pretty good at tracking down decent Series rigs. I'm sure there are others with similar reps that could help as well when the time comes. Some people have even told me they had great luck heading north a couple hours and getting something up in Canada. -Lawrence | ||
| Tripp Westbrook (Tripp) Member Username: Tripp Post Number: 130 Registered: 08-2002 |
Just a question, but are there any issues with bringing in a Canadian Series truck? Any legal or registration hassles? Thanks. | ||
| Ike Goss (Leafsprung) New Member Username: Leafsprung Post Number: 23 Registered: 03-2003 |
Lawrence - East coast is not a good place to go shopping for series trucks. 7K is not that bad when you consider you were thinking of spending 5K on a complete project in the last post. Consider that a series will retain its value unlike your disco . . . Tripp - No hassles as long as its 25 yrs or older. | ||
| Lawrence Tilly (L_tilly) Member Username: L_tilly Post Number: 143 Registered: 02-2002 |
I fully agree that if I wanted something pretty solid from day one that will only require upkeep, then 7k - 10k is probably more like it. But the "project" part of this is one of my biggest draws to an SIIA, SIII. Just as an example, a solid frame may be very important to my initial purchase decision, but I'm also still researching coil-conversions and if I decide to do that then there's no reason to pay more up front for a solid frame. I also have a strong desire to redo the electric and love doing interrior work. Each of those are areas I would be willing to find in a less-than-great condition since they are something I would probably be changing anyway. When I do get around to picking up a Series, I may likely go with something that I can drive a little (to really get it under my skin and keep the motivation up when things get rough) and then start the work on it. If it takes a couple years and a few thousand dollars to finish it, that's ok if it's what I went for in the beginning. My Disco runs pretty well and is there for me in the mean time (but you're right, it will never be worth again what I paid for it). -Lawrence | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Senior Member Username: Ron Post Number: 290 Registered: 04-2001 |
I disagree with Ike on the frame issue. Personally I like to have a new galvanized frame then you NEVER have to worry that your frame will rust (ok maybe your grandkids can worry about rust). I have never met a series truck I could not strip completely down in two weekends. Yes bulkhead repairs SUCK to do (hard to do right) but doors are cheap and seat boxes are not usually that bad that they can't be repaired with new sides. Ike is right you can get a decent truck cheap outside the east coast but if you want a project I can't see NOT replacing a frame. Ron | ||
| Ike Goss (Leafsprung) New Member Username: Leafsprung Post Number: 32 Registered: 03-2003 |
Youre a nut. Why not buy a truck that has a good frame and bulkhead and strip it down and galvanize those? If you HAVE to have galvy. Cheaper AND nicer. For example: -800 rusty project -200 doors -200 door tops -200 rear door -1300 new frame -100 rad panel -200 bulhead repair Thats an easy 3 grand and doesnt include the new fasteners and wiring youll have to buy because you took the truck apart. For the same money you could have a rust free runner that wont have corrosion in the tub, seatbox, tool locker, and fenders. Hell you might not even have to take it apart . . . You might be able to drive it instead of work on it. Preservation is easier AND cheaper than restoration. -Regards -Ike Goss PS: Im headed bak outside to work on my rustbucket | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Senior Member Username: Ron Post Number: 291 Registered: 04-2001 |
"Youre a nut." No arguement here , BTW so are you! 1300 in the world of nice rovers is nothing. There is NO stock land rover frame I have seen that is in a condition where it would be as strong enough to just galvanize and run. Even the ones from the west coast get filled with mud and rot the insides a bit, plus new frames are 3mm, stock is thinner. Whereas every engine I have seen except one (unfortunatly the one in my 80in  ) has been able to run with a modicum of effort, have not found a bad t-case and though some of the trans are shot its east enough to find one that will shift to get you down the road. The cost of a frame is nothing, probably 1/4 of an engine in your world, I am assuming. Plus the rust buckets usually have been left alone, nice and original, the runners have been modified and hacked to no end (saw one painted like a golden eagle jeep once). Taking them apart is the most fun. Too bad its raining or I would be working on the rust PILE (80in). If I was smart I would buy a new frame for the 80in but no $$$$ have to pay for law school Ron PS I think the fundemental thing here is that Ike likes to drive series trucks and I like to work on them. Ike probably has 50,000 miles driving series trucks, I don't even have a tenth of that. | ||
| Ike Goss (Leafsprung) New Member Username: Leafsprung Post Number: 33 Registered: 03-2003 |
Ron, I have WAYYYYYY more than that driving series trucks. I have about 35K in my diesel alone in the last year and a half. 1300 bucks is a fortune in the realm of series rovers. Especially when you can get a rust free (and I mean not even surface rust) desert truck thats a runner for 2-3K. You need to check out some of the rovers in NM, AZ, TX. They dont even have mud there to get in the frame. They are perfectly rust free. Still have paint on the floorboards in many cases. The frame and bulkhead on my diesel are originals that have been dipped. Nary a pit on any part of the chassis or firewall. . . And in general, western rovers are MUCH more original than their eastern counterparts. Since when are you a stickler for originality anyway?? -Regards -Ike PS: Sell me your volvos. | ||
| Ron Brown (Ron) Senior Member Username: Ron Post Number: 295 Registered: 04-2001 |
4000 Ron |
