| Author | Message | ||
     Charles Upton (Cupton) New Member Username: Cupton Post Number: 2 Registered: 08-2003 |
I have been upgrading to parabolics and have been having a terrible time pressing out the brushes out of the chassis. anyone have any tricks or advice to make this less painful than it already is? thanks | ||
| Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Leslie Post Number: 2444 Registered: 02-2002 |
Do you have a blue wrench? heh heh.....  Heat is a common one, creative use of a floor-jack, power tools.... Or start over with a fresh chassis! Good luck! -L | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 713 Registered: 03-2002 |
Ha! I just did this the hard way, coupla folks told me the easy way. Here goes: - heat the rubber to melting in the bush - push out the inner sleave - push out the rubber (easy when hot/melting) - sawzall or hacksaw the outer sleave. It's important to get all the way through to the frame or the thing won't "break" loose. Cut on the up side if you're worried about getting into the frame a little - It should then pop out with a some tapping Thanks Bill/David. I did it the hardway by not getting all the way through the outer sleave initially, pretty much ruined a bearing puller.... | ||
| Thomas Dahbura (U352) Member Username: U352 Post Number: 141 Registered: 10-2002 |
My solution was to take it to a place that can replace the springs. LEt them hassle with it. IT took me three weeks and I got no where. It took them 6 hours. it leans a little but hell at least the ride is nicer. | ||
| Sandy Grice (Apg) New Member Username: Apg Post Number: 15 Registered: 02-2003 |
The 'destructive' method Noee described is the usual 'low tech' approach to bushing removal. Once the cut is made through the outer shell, I find that a small cold chisel will peel up an edge and start things moving. Once you get the old stuff out, I dress up the insides with a brake cylinder hone. However, I have found a neat quick way to reinstall bushings...sometimes works on their removal, too. I took a pointed .401 shank Parker tool (air hammer bit) and welded it to a cheap socket just a skosh smaller than the diameter of the bushing hole. The pointed bit keeps it centered in the bushing. With this, I can refit the traditional style bushings in under two seconds. Put you weight into it and press the trigger. Done. I have used it for removal, but some bushings refuse all 'persuasion' and need to be burned/cut out. Cheers | ||
| Michael Noe (Noee) Senior Member Username: Noee Post Number: 724 Registered: 03-2002 |
Sandy: Nice. I'll remember that for when I go in with the poly bushings... | ||
| Alan Greening (Alan_g) Member Username: Alan_g Post Number: 42 Registered: 04-2003 |
Sawing and burning are two things I try to avoid on my Land Rover, this device called a "Bushwaka" is very simple, and I've never failed to get a bush out with one. If you have access to general engineering facilities they're quite easy to make. http://www.difflock.com/project-110/suspension/bushwaka.shtml |
