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Alex Scolnik (Alex_scolnik)
New Member
Username: Alex_scolnik

Post Number: 14
Registered: 09-2003
Posted on Sunday, December 14, 2003 - 04:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I just wanted to thank everyone for their pre-purchase help, and post a couple of photos of my new 1967 Series IIA.

It's getting a new frame and complete restore, so I'm sure I'll be back posting with tons of questions real soon.

http://www.webfields.com/roverte/small/front.jpg

Alex



 

David Woo (Davidwoo)
Member
Username: Davidwoo

Post Number: 71
Registered: 01-2003
Posted on Sunday, December 14, 2003 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Congrats! I have a pastel green 1967 also. Also check out Art's site: lots of good series info there, if you like to sit on a stump :-)
http://pub145.ezboard.com/bgunsandrovers
DW
 

R. B. Bailey (Rover50987)
Senior Member
Username: Rover50987

Post Number: 701
Registered: 07-2002
Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 02:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Nice paint!
Congrats!
http://landrover.mrbaileyshistory.net
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Leslie

Post Number: 2765
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 08:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Alex,

That's not as bad as I was mentally picturing.....

Get you a chassis, swap that over and drive it... :-)


-L

 

Alex Scolnik (Alex_scolnik)
New Member
Username: Alex_scolnik

Post Number: 15
Registered: 09-2003
Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 10:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

The paint looks pretty nice in the picture, but was done with a brush and is flaking off in places! So, it will need to be painted.

Leslie, it's not bad cosmetically, just mechanically a mess. The underside has about a half an inch of greese and dirt attached to it!

I'm really looking forward to swapping it over, and can't wait to get started this weekend. I'm about to call David at Thatched Roof to find out about shipping a chassis, but I figure I have some time until re-assembly on the new chassis because it all needs to come off, and a lot of the stuff needs to be re-built or at the very least cleaned and painted.

By the way, it's a 67 but has dual windshield wiper motors, so it has some elements of the earlier style. However, it has some wierd carb from a piece of farm equipment. Do you know what was originially on the car. I'm not an originality freak but I can't imagine this carburettor is helping things.

Alex
 

Thomas Dahbura (U352)
Member
Username: U352

Post Number: 214
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Doesn't Leslie make it sound easy.
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Leslie

Post Number: 2766
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Tuesday, December 16, 2003 - 10:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Actually, it is easy, if you have the right tools.... lol.... it just takes time, regardless.

Originally it would've had a Zenith or a Solex, I'm not sure which for that year, tho'. My suggestion would be to go with a Weber single-barrel if you're not rebuilding the engine, or, maybe a Rochester... a lot of folks seem to like the Rotties. If you were going to rebuild the engine, then I'd shave the head a bit, go up to a 2.5 cam, get a good manifold and then go with a double-barrel Weber instead (with appropriate rejetting and linkage adjustments). However, it's a waste to go with a double-barrel Weber on an original 2.25, even problematic...

I strongly suggest, instead of doing like I did and stripping it down into bits, having them sit around and then re-assembling, what I would do if the space is available is to get the new chassis sitting beside the vehicle. As you take something off, refurbish it, and then put it onto the other chassis. The wings and doors, and the interior, sure, pull 'em and set them aside, but, for the major components, just migrate them: i.e., put the vehicle on blocks and pull the axles out. Bolt them to the leaf springs under the chassis. Then, pull the engine and put it into the new chassis. Get the bulkhead over, and the rear-tub and seatbox. Then, you can get to where you can paint it, and then assemble it.

Anyway....

One thing to consider, is often, if you've got other parts to ship, we can pack it up inside the crate built around the chassis, so, you can save on shipping that way. Just a thought.... Anyway, whenever you're ready for it, let him know and I'll get over and help crate it up...


-L

 

Alex Scolnik (Alex_scolnik)
New Member
Username: Alex_scolnik

Post Number: 16
Registered: 09-2003
Posted on Wednesday, December 17, 2003 - 08:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'm hoping it's as easy as Leslie makes it seem :-)

I can't imagine the engine wouldn't/shouldn't be re-built. The rest of the running gear is a mess, and I think compared to what I will be in to the truck for, the machine shop bill wont be tremendous.

The problem is, that I don't have space inside to store a rolling chasis, and a being dis-assembled chassis. Being winter in New York, I don't think I want either sitting outside in the snow, and certainly don't want to work on one outside. So, unfortunately, I think I have to take everything apart and then move it over.

You mentioned having the right tool. I have a decent set of sockets and wrenches and hammers and stuff, but what other tools do you recommend getting?
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Leslie

Post Number: 2770
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Wednesday, December 17, 2003 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Things like a sawzall, an angle grinder.... remember, you're dealing with 40 year old bolts, rusty ones that are rounded off.... you're not keeping the old chassis, right? It makes it a lot easier to use "aggressive negotiations" with certain parts.... don't go wild, or you'll find yourself replacing bits that didn't need to be replaced, but, almost anything that is needed can be replaced, so, decide what's more valuable: an original part that you have to spend hours fighting nuts and bolts to save, or, the time spent to save it when you could have spent 30-seconds zapping it with a cut-off wheel and then can put the replacement piece in and be done with it. Sometimes, the fight is needed, other times, kill it and replace.

Now guys, to be fair, I should point out.....
Although I'm doing it myself, I've making extensive use of my very knowledgeable friend's expertise, wearing him out with questions all along the way, seeing how he would recommend doing something, or many times more importantly NOT doing something....

Are you going to remove the galvanized trim bits, or are you going to leave them riveted in place? Do you know how to weld?


-L

 

Alex Scolnik (Alex_scolnik)
New Member
Username: Alex_scolnik

Post Number: 17
Registered: 09-2003
Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2003 - 12:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I'm unfortunately experienced with stuck bolts, but am armed with an angle grinder!

I don't know if I'm taking the galvanized bits off. Do most people? Is there any reason to or not to? I would assume it would make it easier to paint, but are they difficult to re-install? I think at the very least they need to be cleaned. The front bumper is new and looks great, but in this picture, you can see how dirty some of the trim is:

http://www.webfields.com/roverte/small/back.jpg

I do not know how to weld, but didn't think there was very much welding to be done. Perhaps it would be worth learning? What do you think?

Alex
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Leslie

Post Number: 2772
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Thursday, December 18, 2003 - 11:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Most don't, given the trouble that comes from having to re-rivet it back. Plus, the galvanized bits are probably okay, you can clean 'em and then paint with hammerite if you want. FWIW, I did take mine off and had them re-galvanized, and will have to learn how to rivet well to get 'em back on.

You don't have to weld if you replace everything, or, if the bulkhead is good... everything else can be done with otherwise. It's a big investement to get good equipment and spend time to learn to do it well. However, if you forsee other reasons to learn, then, get one and learn, and then you also have those skills for Rover usage, too...


-L
 

Eric E. Yang (Ericnovember)
New Member
Username: Ericnovember

Post Number: 11
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Tuesday, December 23, 2003 - 02:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

A little late the response, but the Rover looks great Alex...the color rocks. Good luck with the restoration, you've got a long but fun road ahead of you I'm sure.

Eric Y.
 

David Morin (Sporin)
Member
Username: Sporin

Post Number: 156
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 08:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

How about a resto-update? :-)
 

Alex Scolnik (Alex_scolnik)
Member
Username: Alex_scolnik

Post Number: 47
Registered: 09-2003
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 12:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

David --

It's going well, I've got tons of pics here:

http://community.webshots.com/user/roverte/

I got my new frame, and right now it's a half rolling chassis, but I'm planning on putting the front axle on this weekend. The bulkhead is off having some welding done on it, and being painted, and hopefully I'll be able to pick that up this week!

If the weather ever gets a little bet here, I can start cleaning the engine, and then work on getting that and the transmission back in.

Alex

 

David Morin (Sporin)
Member
Username: Sporin

Post Number: 158
Registered: 02-2003
Posted on Thursday, April 01, 2004 - 12:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Just went through your pictures. Great Job!

I'm hoping to do something similar someday with my son (he's only 15mo. right now. :-)

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