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Eric E. Yang (Ericnovember)
New Member
Username: Ericnovember

Post Number: 18
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 - 12:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Does anyone have any good pointers in terms of towing a Series Rover behind either a Discovery or a Chevy Silverado?

1. I'm thinking about buying the u-Haul adjustable tow bar, is this fine and does it work well? (leslie, you mentioned you had used one before). And what location is best for the two-bar receiver mounts on the front of the Series (i know, I know, probably best to mount them where the recovery points go). And does anyone have any pictures of this?
2. should I unhook the driveshafts or will the free hubs and transfer case & transmission in neutral be adequate? I'd really rather not have to unhook the driveshafts for the medium length haul (40 miles)
3.(off the subject) - if my free wheel hubs haven't been used in a while, from just simple lack of driving, should I try and do any preventive maintenance before I hit the trail?

Thanks all, sorry for the long post.
Eric Y.
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Leslie

Post Number: 3049
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 - 08:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I bought my bar with the intent of bringing the Series home from Knoxville with it, but after getting it installed I ended up trailering it. lol... So, I've only used mine a little bit, like when I took it from the farm over to the shop for dissassembly. However, I was pleased with it the times I have used it.

I mounted the tow brackets as close to the frame horns as I could manage, if not a bit wider. The one I had used two bolts per bracket, whereas some lighter-built ones I've seen only used a single bolt for each bracket. I'd advise using the beefier version of a tow bar, not a lighter one.

If I remember correctly, I had some arcane argument in my head about offsetting the brackets to ensure that the Series in tow wouldn't be further into traffic than it would be to the other side, but, I don't think that it really mattered in the end, it was more a case of mental gymnastics.

While it's ideal to drop the driveshafts, you don't have to... most recommendations I've read have said to put the transfer case into neutral, but to leave the transmission in 4th gear. Given the reasonable towing distance, I don't think that I'd drop the shafts, either.

My standing suggestion for freewheeling hubs is to leave them locked most of the time. Officially, if you usually drive with them unlocked, then you are supposed to lock them once a week (I think I've read 1/7th of your weekly mileage needs to be locked). For in-town use they make little difference, most of the difference you would see comes in longer highway use. So, I'd simply leave them locked around town, and only unlock them for road-trips, then lock them back once back off the freeway. My suggestion is to lock them, then drive.

And that's not a long post..... go see some of John Lee's Snap-On posts..... :-)



-L


 

Tim '92 RR (Snowman)
Senior Member
Username: Snowman

Post Number: 676
Registered: 12-2002
Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 - 08:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Maybe this suggestion applies, maybe not. If your doors don't shut great TIE them shut so they don't pop open and spring a hinge if you hit a good bump!
 

Eric E. Yang (Ericnovember)
New Member
Username: Ericnovember

Post Number: 19
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Thanks for the info Leslie,

I'll go stop by the U-Haul center close by and make the purchase. Their website only showed one type that they kept in stock, so I'm hoping that it is the more robust tow-bar. Any special recommendations when you mount the two brackets? I suspect it'll be pretty straightforward, but I'd hate to lose my Series III in tow on a hill. I can only imagine the headlines...

Tim - my door shut well and lock, but an extra tie down or two in some strategic places never hurt anything eh?

EY
 

Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
Dweb Lounge Member
Username: Leslie

Post Number: 3050
Registered: 02-2002
Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Hey, you're in Knoxville.... the Uhaul place I bought mine is not far from the 11E-11W split, just a bit up 11W, near the road that cuts across from Chilhowie to Rutledge (past Holston Middle), there at the muffler shop. 'Course, that was ~3 years ago now....


The bolts for the brackets are 1/2", so, those are big holes that you'll have to drill. My drill was only a 3/8", so, I found a special 1/2" bit that necks down. By the time I was drilling the 4th hole, the bit had a distinctive warble, lol....


I'm a fan of lock washers, and loc-tite, and heavily torquing things..... :-) Or, even a touch of a welder.... you'll be guaranteeing that you'd have to grind the bolt to ever get 'em back off, but, the bracket wouldn't come loose. But, I *really* wouldn't go *that* far, I think if you tighten it down, and check it whenever you stop along the way, then recheck, 'til you're confident in it.... just use your common sense....



Good luck,


-L




 

Enoch Snyder (Esnyder)
Member
Username: Esnyder

Post Number: 105
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Check air pressure in tires. You may end up towing it at a higher speed than the old girl ever went. I towed my 66 up from Fla. on a tow dolley and it had a set of Avon (English brand tube tires, and fortunately we got out and checked after a few miles and they had REALLY heated up due to low pressure.
 

Eric E. Yang (Ericnovember)
New Member
Username: Ericnovember

Post Number: 20
Registered: 11-2003
Posted on Wednesday, February 11, 2004 - 12:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Good points.

Definately will do the check and recheck. I used a U-Haul tow dolly coming back from Nashville to Knoxville, TN and averaged around 70mph up and over those hills. God bless my Discovery for managing that.

I know that dolly says 55mph, and I'm not an irresponsibile person by any means, but 55mph felt like I was idling. All this to say that I'm hoping the tow bar makes for less of a burden on while towing. Though, I am very interested in knowing what I'm supposed to do with the steering wheel...how do I prevent it from turning while making turns and even worse causing a problem on the interstate....
 

Enoch Snyder (Esnyder)
Member
Username: Esnyder

Post Number: 106
Registered: 10-2002
Posted on Wednesday, February 11, 2004 - 07:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

I usually lock it in place to something with a ratchet strap.
 

Dan Ratcliffe (Dan_ratcliffe)
Member
Username: Dan_ratcliffe

Post Number: 63
Registered: 07-2003
Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2004 - 07:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post

Towed a 109 three door hard top from Greenville SC, to Raleigh NC with at tow bar I purchased from the Tractor Supply Company, with an 1960 88. It kicked my butt for six hours!

Towed my 88 from New Hampshire to Raleigh on a trailer with our disco, defintely much easier, but I feel the proudest about wrestling that 88/109 combo.

Good luck.

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