| Author | Message | ||
     Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 745 Registered: 02-2002 |
And if so, how does it cope with 1/4" steel? | ||
| Dave_lucas (Dave_lucas) Senior Member Username: Dave_lucas Post Number: 407 Registered: 02-2002 |
I have one So far the thickest stuff I have used it on was 3/16 mild steel and it cut it but really slow  The blade works ok on 1/8" sheet steel but even with 1/8" it is a little scary, make sure you keep the blade lubed and it will cut better. I would not buy another one, it makes way to much noise and a huge mess, not to mention that I do not feel safe using it. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 965 Registered: 02-2002 |
Dean - it sucks bad on 1/4" or above - you'll burn out the saw motor pretty quickly - and like mentioned above it is hot, slow and messy and hard to control a good cut. Bill | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 747 Registered: 02-2002 |
Bill & all, Ok so right now I'm using oxy acetylene to cut the steel, which is fine except that its not easy to get a good even cut, so I spend even more time grinding it down flat afterwards. It would be great if there were some kind of track I could buy to move the cutter forward at a constant speed and in a straight line, do you know of such a thing? | ||
| Leo (Leo_hallak) Member Username: Leo_hallak Post Number: 120 Registered: 02-2003 |
Use a brass bar as a ruler and run the torch next to it, to keep your lines straight. Thats how I have seen most people do it. -Leo | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 793 Registered: 02-2003 |
you get the composite chop saw blade and toss it on that circular saw it does great. just go slow and wear googles. the saw doesnt know the difference. rd | ||
| Jack Parker (Jack) Member Username: Jack Post Number: 186 Registered: 03-2002 |
I've used the composite chop saw blades too, with good results. Agree re: go slow, wear goggles, gloves and remove anything from the area that might catch fire  | ||
| Jack Parker (Jack) Member Username: Jack Post Number: 187 Registered: 03-2002 |
Sorry, just re-read. I didn't cut 1/4" steel, something less than that, but I'd still give the chop blade a try, if you haven't. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 749 Registered: 02-2002 |
I used an aluminum bar to guide me but its still shaky and I gave up on it, just didn't work well. Rob - you cut 1/4" with that? Approximately how fast is it (say to cut 1 foot)? Dean | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 1007 Registered: 09-2002 |
can you use a router for this purpose? I recall that the speed's about right, but I have no idea what bits may work. It'll still be really slow. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 794 Registered: 02-2003 |
dean, this is a well used tool in kyles garage. if you go so fast as to hear the motor bog down then you defenitly know you are going too fast. aside from that you can wear down the wheel very quickly if you go faster than optimal i don't know how much cutting you are going to be doing but i would say go about a 30-45 seconds an inch. it will depend greatly on the HP of your saw & the thickness of your chop saw blade. again, if the saw complains slow down. you also might want to cover your mouth as the composite blade turns to dust as it wears and tastes pretty bad. peter, i would thing a router would be way too fast. i cannot even imageing it. rob | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 795 Registered: 02-2003 |
http://www.toolbarn.com/cgi-bin/products.cgi/DW3511/ they are cheaper than i though. forget about my warning of optimal speed. go balls to the wall until the motor stalls, dean. let me know if you melt anything. | ||
| Curtis N (Curtis) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Curtis Post Number: 630 Registered: 05-2002 |
I have the composite blade and use it with success for small and infrequent cuts. However, when I am doing a project it seems faster and easier to take it to a fab shop where they have plasma cutters and the like. I think they charge about $5 a cut and it is much cleaner than I can do. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 751 Registered: 02-2002 |
Rob, if you're talking 1" in 45 secs well that's no good really because I know I would be practically dead after pushing that thing for a 36" cut! This is the thing I need: http://www.secmachines.com/Oxy_1.htm It runs on a rail and powers itself forward at constant speed 60-600mm/min. | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 971 Registered: 02-2002 |
Rob, I agree that the blades work fine on a chop saw - but after trying it on a circular saw, it just doesn't work well. Dean - it recently took me approx 8-10 min to make two 10" cuts in 1/4" steel - including time to wait for the saw to cool (not a cheap saw either - largest Makita 7 1/4" they made a few years ago) Bill | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 1010 Registered: 09-2002 |
Rob, I was thinking about something like a 1/4" dia mill bit. Router has no provision for coolant, though, so it's rather moot. I've used angle grinder to cut through 1/4" steel, but the rate of wear of cutoff wheel was amazing. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 753 Registered: 02-2002 |
Bill & all, Ok thanks for your help. The oxyacetylene seems much more fun so I'll stick with it and put up with the rough edges Dean | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 797 Registered: 02-2003 |
i disageee bill. i cout out alot of parts with the chopsaw bladed circular saw and it was very nice. it's all in the wrist i guess | ||
| Bill Bettridge (Billb) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Billb Post Number: 974 Registered: 02-2002 |
Guess we'll agree to disagree No probs Dean - good luck either way. If you think you'll be cutting enough, maybe you can justify a small plasma cutter (I know I'd try like hell!) Bill | ||
| Greg (Gparrish) Senior Member Username: Gparrish Post Number: 1338 Registered: 04-2002 |
Dean, Couldn't you just get creative and make some sort of holder for your torch, and attach it to a ring clamp or something. Then, use a section of pipe attached to your material with a spacer and slide the holder down the pipe. Hard to explain, but basically make your own rail system to guide the torch. | ||
| Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) Moderator Username: Kyle Post Number: 438 Registered: 11-2002 |
Hows this , learn how to use the torch ? Isnt that a novel idea ? The torch will cut just fine if you learn how to use it. Kyle "Blow me" | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 799 Registered: 02-2003 |
i guess that's why you get your shit plasma cut , eh kyle? rd | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 755 Registered: 02-2002 |
Kyle, I dunno why, but when I'm welding its the same, I get all shaky and tense and have to steady my hands right next to the object, and I can never go very far before I run out of steadiness (or energy). If I actively try to loosen up a bit, its better, but far from accurate. Annoys the f*** outa me too! Maybe I need a welding-psychologist. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 801 Registered: 02-2003 |
dean, it's all in the wrist. ;) | ||
| Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) Moderator Username: Kyle Post Number: 453 Registered: 11-2002 |
Dean you need to anchor one hand. That means good welding gloves Rob has watched me weld I dont know how much shit so I am sure he knows what I am talking about. Since I am right handed I lay the torch (welding or gas) over my left and move the whole works slowly along. remember this. Perfection through repetition....... Kyle "Blow me" | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 1339 Registered: 02-2003 |
yes, kyle does have a technique. i know what he is talking about. i used to think it also required no helmut and a cigarette hanging out but kyle went up town last christmas when he was gifted a self dimming mask. | ||
| Dean Brown (Deanbrown3d) Senior Member Username: Deanbrown3d Post Number: 1132 Registered: 02-2002 |
No helmet? lol he obviously never uses flux core! I got myself a self-dimmer too, otherwise as far as I can see you need 3 hands! | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 1340 Registered: 02-2003 |
yeah, no flux core. got the gas rollin' | ||
| Matt Milbrandt (95discovery) Dweb Lounge Member Username: 95discovery Post Number: 172 Registered: 02-2002 |
When I first started welding, I would go through the motions of the weld before I actually pulled the trigger. I mean I would put the tip in position and move across the part as if I was welding before I would actually weld. It helps you feel better about the weld and makes sure you have enough range of motion in whatever position you are in to complete the weld. I am right handed and usually hold the mig gun with both hands, with my index and middle finger from my right hand on the trigger. Just use whatever you feel comfortable with and have the most control. I also found that with each new process you learn you get better with them all. So I would practice with the oxy and mig. It will also help you in those situations where you have to use one hand, and when you learn to tig weld you will get better at everything. But like Kyle said...practice is the best tool. Matt |
