| Author | Message | ||
     John S. Bleazard (Injun) Member Username: Injun Post Number: 48 Registered: 12-2003 |
Which version is needed for a 98 D1. The order form is showing a euro, gm, and ford version. Im guessing the euro, but wanted to double check. Also, is anyone running the tricom? Is it worth the extra $$. Is there a better alternative to OBD2.com stuff? I had a check engine light that came on after some wheeling, then went off after about 5 days. Now its back on a week later. It would be nice to see what this is and erase if needed, or fix it. Im over 2hrs from a LR dealer. So, any advice, experience, opinions, suggestions on this and other software. Thank you. | ||
| Melissa N (Roverchic) Member Username: Roverchic Post Number: 114 Registered: 02-2004 |
John-AutoZone is where I got mine OBD2 (150.00 plus tax). It will allow you to clear the codes as well.. The light off and on could mean that it fixed itself(self healing--or a loose connection with for example the 02 sensors -they got wet maybe) OR there could be a more intermittent problem. You would be able to view the code it blew previously by checking under "PENDING" codes using obd2. Hope that helps.. I have a 1998 D1 as well ... MY ROVER LOVES THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT! | ||
| Jim Reynolds (4x4xfar) Senior Member Username: 4x4xfar Post Number: 362 Registered: 05-2003 |
I think this week alone I've unhooked the battery 3 times to clear codes ... but to no avail!! Oh well, mine seems to have the same affection for the "service engine soon" light! -Jim | ||
| Peter Matusov (Pmatusov) Senior Member Username: Pmatusov Post Number: 1394 Registered: 09-2002 |
John, you need the Euro/Chrysler version. Works on 96+ land rovers and jeeps as well. Whenever there were warning lights on my Disco, disconnecting and reconnecting the battery never cleared them. When I bought my obd-2 gizmo, it cost me $122. | ||
| Tom Fioretti (Tom_in_md) Member Username: Tom_in_md Post Number: 152 Registered: 02-2003 |
I got and use the Euro for my 96. It's got the ISO connector that's good for European, Asian, and Chrysler. OBD-2.com. | ||
| Axel Haakonsen (Axel) Moderator Username: Axel Post Number: 1050 Registered: 02-2003 |
Peter is right, but I would still recommend the tricom, since it works with all 3 protocols, so you can use the software on any OBD2 vehicle. I have the tricom, btw. The software is the same for all three versions, the difference is in the actual physical connection, which has a chip in it. - Axel | ||
| John S. Bleazard (Injun) Member Username: Injun Post Number: 49 Registered: 12-2003 |
Can anyone comment on the ease of use? Thank you all very much for your help. | ||
| Big Ed (Sandman) Member Username: Sandman Post Number: 84 Registered: 02-2004 |
John...do you have a Palm PDA? If so, what you really want is this! www.auterraweb.com It works with everything and even has the Land Rover specific database. Don't settle for anything else. Check the eBay auctions for "Auterra ODB". You can get it for much less than the website asking price! SandMan | ||
| John S. Bleazard (Injun) Member Username: Injun Post Number: 50 Registered: 12-2003 |
I have a Palm Tungsten T. I'll check that out. Does it remove codes as well as read them? | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 615 Registered: 04-2003 |
If you have a Pocket PC, then this one looks good. I haven't tried it yet, but for $85 for the kit (not including the PPC) it is not a bad price. http://www.obdmeter.com/ | ||
| Joey (Joey4420) Senior Member Username: Joey4420 Post Number: 616 Registered: 04-2003 |
Ooops, I just noticed it works for Palm as well as PPC.  | ||
| Bill Mallin (Billmallin) Senior Member Username: Billmallin Post Number: 465 Registered: 09-2003 |
hmm... says I need a serial sync cable for PPC. I have a USB sync cable. I wonder if a converter would work (USB to serial)? Anyone have any experience? Hell, has anyone had any experience with any of these systems that work with handheld devices? Do they work well, etc.? | ||
| Reed Cotton (Reedcotton) Senior Member Username: Reedcotton Post Number: 325 Registered: 01-2003 |
I have used the ODB2.COM software with the INDIO-3 connector ( I think that is an earlier version of the Tricom that Axel mentioned.) I liked this as the connector optically isolates the ECU from the computer, and you have less of a chance to spike something. I had some problems logging onto the truck with it, but I believe that that is a mechanical problem on my serial port (I suspect one of the pins may be broken). You can clear your codes with this software. I have also used the Autera for the Palm, with both a Palm IIIc and my Kyocera 7135. I will never go back to using the laptop for OBD2 reading. (Well, almost never.) You can also clear the codes with this software. For me, this reader is the most fun I have used. I like to play with the Dyno funtions. Now if someone would fit Testbook into a Palm format.... | ||
| Don Leichtling (Scruffy) New Member Username: Scruffy Post Number: 14 Registered: 01-2004 |
Anyone have a Palm CD version of the Autera software for sale? I want to be able to read the codes and reset the lights but not much more... Thanks | ||
| Jeff Mclaird (Granitedisco) Senior Member Username: Granitedisco Post Number: 283 Registered: 08-2003 |
Excuse my ignorance on this one - does anyone have the T4 scanner ? I borrowed a scanner from one of the folks yesterday. Not sure what make it was but it was saying that there were no probs - even so the damn red light stayed on and there were no codes to clear. So it was either the scanner (wrong type) or something more sinister from Lucas the lord of darkness. Anyway now I'm in the market for a scanner so thinking this may be the way to go. Jeff | ||
| Reed Cotton (Reedcotton) Senior Member Username: Reedcotton Post Number: 332 Registered: 01-2003 |
Jeff- On my '96 D1 the red light is triped by a milage counter, and is reset by putting a paperclip into the Red Light ECU box (hole for inserting paper clip is covered by an oval sticker) Though it is a red light which I always though more critical, it is nothing more than a reminder to have the engine (emissions stuff I think) serviced. The yellow or amber light is the one indicating problems that need to be diagnosed. The amber "Check Engine" light is the one that can be reset by various scanners. I think this is true for most OBD2 D1's (96 and newer). If I am wrong in this assumtion, someone please set me right. -Reed | ||
| Jeff Mclaird (Granitedisco) Senior Member Username: Granitedisco Post Number: 285 Registered: 08-2003 |
Thanks Reed - you were right on the money. Two holes in the ECU box the one right under the oval and the one next door. It's the one next door that has the two prongs that need to be shorted. Think I'm going to wire in a reset switch to these certainly save a bit of digging around. regards Jeff |
