| Author | Message | ||
     Stephan Laputka (Sflash868) Member Username: Sflash868 Post Number: 43 Registered: 12-2002 |
The other day three passenger side body mounts broke(rusted through the floor boards) and the whole body of my 88 rangie dropped down on one side. SHit. Since then i've decided that i'm going to take the body off the truck and sand all the rust off as well as doing any rust work on the frame. One of the ideas i had was to rino-line the entire inside of the truck. (the stuff they put in pick-up beds) I've yanked all the seats, scrapped the mud ridden carpets, and i'm working on the center console. DOes anybody know how to properly perform rust treatment? I don't want to do it wrong and then spray this stuff over it. Secondly, once the body is off i'm probably going to yank the engine. Would anybody be interested in a 4.6 short block with about 40k on the block? | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Senior Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 391 Registered: 07-2002 |
I've used POR15 with very good results: http://www.por15.com/ | ||
| Ian Kreidich (Ian95rrc) Member Username: Ian95rrc Post Number: 111 Registered: 03-2003 |
My advice to you would be to get another body to use or just start with a less rusted classic. The money and time you put into the body off restoration really isn't worth it given that for a couple grand you can find a RRC that is in far better shape. I would really think about what you're getting into before you have a half torn apart truck that you want to get rid of. I had a similar decision to make and decided to dump what I had. I really think that once you start pulling your body panels off you will find some very very nasty rust. I am currently replacing the entire rear floor in my 95. Yet, overall it looks practically brand new from the outside. It only has 80,000 miles on it. If you still want to do the restoration of your current body I would suggest you pick up the Haynes Range Rover Restoration Manual. The book is lacking in certain areas but overall it's worth the money. Good luck. | ||
| Stephan Laputka (Sflash868) Member Username: Sflash868 Post Number: 46 Registered: 12-2002 |
Yeah i've been getting a lot of the "get rid of the thing" comments. My thinking is that if it's sitting in my garage and i'm doing all the work on it then it's not a financial hole. Aside from some rust related products and some aluminum panels where do you see the major costs coming in? I'm not saying it won't cost me money, i'm just curous to know because i'm not very knowledgable at retorations.(This would be the first attempted) | ||
| Ian Kreidich (Ian95rrc) Member Username: Ian95rrc Post Number: 114 Registered: 03-2003 |
The major cost will be spread out by little things. Basically when you start in on a project like this you are going to find alot of things along the way that need replaced or repaired. I think the term "while you're at it" comes up alot and leads to spending more money. Rovers will always be money pits, but if you do this restoration you will probably come across alot of the problems most people fix over the coarse of a few years. I don't know how much you know about the design of rovers and forgive me if you already knew this. Your classic has mostly aluminum body panels, yet under it is a steel body. The steel body is where you will find the majority of the rust problems. The problems are basically masked by the aluminum. I would say that if you don't know how to weld; that is a major consideration in the project because you will be doing alot of it. So if you don't already have all the welding equipement then you will need to purchase it. Unfortunely it's not something that you can just total up the cost of and say this is how much it is going to run. I would definitely get that book before you jump into this project because it will show you all the things you are in for. | ||
| David Morin (Sporin) Member Username: Sporin Post Number: 108 Registered: 02-2003 |
I were going to all the trouble of a frame off, I would swap on a modified Series body instead. make yourself a coil-sprung 100-inch hybrid.  | ||
| Aaron Richardet (Draaronr) Senior Member Username: Draaronr Post Number: 338 Registered: 09-2002 |
I had that same thought David, would the cab be a direct fit, and why not do a defender? Let me know because I am seriously thinking of doing this in the spring. I don't want to sacrifice my RR so I was going to try and find a wrecked southern RR classic or disco for the donor. | ||
| Jason Michaels (H2eater) Senior Member Username: H2eater Post Number: 259 Registered: 03-2003 |
Stephen, my truck's are both rhino lined on the inside. I pulled everything out and did them. It takes about two gallons and once you start don't stop... The brush is trash afterwards also but the end result it kick ass. I suggest grinding down the rust, patching holes, lightly sanding with like 100grit, por 15'ing any rust, and then rhino lining it. Let me know if you have any questions... jason@specialtytools.com | ||
| David Morin (Sporin) Member Username: Sporin Post Number: 111 Registered: 02-2003 |
Aaron, Never done it myself, but it is my understanding that a LOT of the hard points are the same. Go to Google.com and do a search for "Rover+100-inch Hybrid" and that should bring up more info. | ||
| Jeff Mclaird (Granitedisco) Member Username: Granitedisco Post Number: 68 Registered: 08-2003 |
Good Call David - hybrid is probably a good route to go - provided you have a dry space to build one up Jeff | ||
| Jeff Mclaird (Granitedisco) Member Username: Granitedisco Post Number: 75 Registered: 08-2003 |
This would be the one - defender 100 http://www.worldoffroad.com/vehicles/tew.asp 3 part story of the build up Jeff |
