| Author | Message | ||
     Jorge D. Hinojos (Jorge_d_hinojos) New Member Username: Jorge_d_hinojos Post Number: 23 Registered: 10-2003 |
This morning my wife was driving her Range Rover and suddenly the computer threw a code saying to slow down to less than 35 mph, the air suspension levels button had all the lights lit and the symbol on the dashboard came on too. do you guys have any ideas waht could be causing this? can it be checked with the OBDII reader? is it safe to drive when no air in the suspension? all your help is appreciated! | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Senior Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 430 Registered: 07-2002 |
OBDII cannot pull EAS faults, you will have to bring it to a dealer or independent shop with the proper diagnostic equipment. You can drive on the bumpstops but it will be a very bumpy ride. I would only drive it if you have too, that is to the nearest shop. Now maybe a good time to convert to coil springs if it going to cost you alot to repair the EAS. | ||
| Robert Lee (Boblee) New Member Username: Boblee Post Number: 15 Registered: 12-2003 |
My EAS was going out on my 97 hse and it was going to cost me some money for the pump and a new air spring, depending on what coils and springs you do and who does the labor, you can do it for fairly cheap. I have some stock springs that came in a kit, because I used some Dobinson springs to give me some lift. I can sell you the springs if you are interested....or just give them to you for like 20 bucks each, I have no need for them. I would recommend that you swith to coil tho, no more worrying about EAS and the ride quality is great for me. | ||
| Robert Lee (Boblee) New Member Username: Boblee Post Number: 16 Registered: 12-2003 |
I forgot to add, depending on what it is, I still have all the parts that I pulled from the EAS. If you need a part just contact me and Ill see if Ive got it, and that it is still in good condition. | ||
| Andrew Parker (P38memate) New Member Username: P38memate Post Number: 23 Registered: 12-2003 |
Jorge, Like Alan states you will need a RoverCom equipped service facility to diagnose what the EAS system thinks is wrong with its self for a good head start in getting it repaired. Being as your rig is a 96 like mine you will probably find that it is more than likely the o-rings which seal the air lines to the springs and valve block need replacing. Mine all started leaking this winter with the colder morning tempuratures. The tube sealing mechanism uses two of these 6mm O-rings on each air spring and again the same number were the air lines head into the EAS mainifold. These O-rings are the cheapest thing you can replace and I never ever hear of any one mentioning this because the other components are pricy and easy to sell the unsuspecting owner on replacing them instead. However, if the RR has been leaking for a while the compressor may be dead or you have an air spring bladder with a large enough hole which has toasted the systems ability to over come the leak and it is letting you know this. Not to pick on your wife but if she is like mine they are awful at considering mechanical malfunctions and are apt to just run things till they break. Let us here what is diagnosed as being the problem. AP | ||
| Jorge D. Hinojos (Jorge_d_hinojos) New Member Username: Jorge_d_hinojos Post Number: 24 Registered: 10-2003 |
Andrew, that could very well the problem because we have been experiencing some very cold temperatures. I will check that fisrt in case the dealer does not share it with us. Robert, I will keep you in mind with either parts! thanks Jorge | ||
| Bob (Yomtov) Member Username: Yomtov Post Number: 125 Registered: 01-2003 |
Since the EAS adjusts for different driving conditions. I was wondering if there is a choice of swtiching to conventional coil/spring setup that would give a better ride for everyday use as opposed to off road use. As I am considering removing the EAS and would like a better ride albeit with better handling as well. | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Senior Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 434 Registered: 07-2002 |
There are several kits avaliable, switching to Bilstein shocks will also help with handling: http://www.motorcarsltd.com/specials/range-rover-air-suspension-kits.htm http://www.atlanticbritish.com/ProductList.asp?Category=SUSPENSION+%26+STEERING& Vehicle=R4&PerPage=1&ListType=DETAIL&PartNumber=9520LBHD http://www.atlanticbritish.com/ProductList.asp?Category=SUSPENSION+%26+STEERING& Vehicle=R4&PerPage=1&ListType=DETAIL&PartNumber=9520LB http://www.britishpacific.com/whats_new.html | ||
| Andrew Parker (P38memate) New Member Username: P38memate Post Number: 26 Registered: 12-2003 |
Jorge, Here is a trick you can pull on the EAS system if your into do-it-yourself methods. If you have a floor jack and some blocks and or jack stands you can lift the frame and body a few inches so the front and rear suspension isn't on the bump stops. Once you have done this turn the vehicle on and see if the EAS clears the lamps on the dash. If it does then the electronics are OK as the ride height sensors now think the suspension is up and OK. With the hood open see if the EAS compressor is running. Feel the bags and see if they are pumping up. This will give you further information as to what is wrong with it. | ||
| Jorge D. Hinojos (Jorge_d_hinojos) New Member Username: Jorge_d_hinojos Post Number: 27 Registered: 10-2003 |
I finally got a chance to take my range rover to the dealer....once they checked the rig they came up with a long list of parts that need to be replaced. leaks were found on the folowing parts: EAS Valve Block $902 EAS Driver $522 EAS Compressor $421 Front Air Spring (1)$170 Rear Air Spring (2)$330 EAS Dryer $105 + Labor!!!! I asked them to show me the diagnose and the leaks physically. the diagnose does not say much, only that "cannot lower RR, RR valve stuck closed" and "2 fault codes have been stored", which to me it does not talk spacifically about the above parts. also, the leaks that they showed me were very small, although I am not a mechanic. the bags show some air escaping if you apply some spray they used. they do not have an opening, is just that they have been on for 110K miles on a snowy environment. they say that the compressor is weak only. and the leak on the valve block is on top on one of the little plastic heads that controls the air to each spring. the leak is very small. the other parts they did not show them to me. I just think that if a start applying some type of spry to find leaks around the vehicle, I will never finish my list!!!!! I thing they are pulling my leg! any toughts? However, they did clear the codes and the lights are off. I have not decided what to do, but I won't drive it until I narrow down the problem. your toughts will be appreciated! and I apologize for the long message!! | ||
| Bob (Yomtov) Member Username: Yomtov Post Number: 127 Registered: 01-2003 |
Switch to coil/spring setup and ditch the EAS. They are nuts. | ||
| Alan Bates (Alanb) Senior Member Username: Alanb Post Number: 445 Registered: 07-2002 |
Make the switch to coils. They are probably right that everything in your EAS is leaking because your RR is now over 8 years old. Check out the links I provided you above about coil conversion kits. I think you will be throwing away $2,450 + labor if you fix it, and another leak will probably spring up somewhere else in the future. I like probably yourself don't have the time or knowledge to maintain and repair the EAS, switch and be happy. | ||
| Andrew Parker (P38memate) New Member Username: P38memate Post Number: 28 Registered: 12-2003 |
Jorge, It looks like they are replacing everything because they can and think you will be none the wiser for it. If you do decide to keep the EAS intact there are some work arounds but your going to have to do the work. For instance Arnott Ind. makes the air spring bladders. The rear is $105/bladder plus shipping. If your air springs are equipped with the aluminum lower piston lobes you should seriously consider keeping them as I have seen the newer pastic ones fracture and break apart on other P38A's. I would first have those idiots at the dealer replace all the orings in the air lines. But buy the orings your self through McMaster-Carr. The big ones are McMaster-Carr p/n 9263K12, 1 package of 25 o-rings 2.4mm by 7.6mm. They do the 8mm lines to the dryer and back. The smaller ones on the lines to the air springs are McMaster-Carr p/n (crud I can't find the reciept). They are 2.4mm by 5.8mm I think. The metric o-ring selection is pretty good in the web page. You need the largest ID o-ring that is less than 6mm. |
