| Author | Message | ||
     Brian Ford (Rrover) New Member Username: Rrover Post Number: 18 Registered: 09-2003 |
Water pump finally went after 130+ thousand miles. Before I take it to a local shop, I wanted to know if replacing a water pump is something I can do myself? I have basic garage tools. Any instruction would be great! Thank-you | ||
| flyor (Flyor) Member Username: Flyor Post Number: 52 Registered: 05-2003 |
What year, what engine? | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Senior Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 465 Registered: 10-2002 |
Yes, you can. Have your ever replaced a water pump on any other vehicles? If so, it's pretty straight forward. Is your RR a classic with pre-serpentine belts? | ||
| Brian Ford (Rrover) New Member Username: Rrover Post Number: 19 Registered: 09-2003 |
It is an 88 RR classic. This would be my first time replacing a water pump on anything. I'm not sure about the pre-serpentine belts though. If it is the belt that goes around the a/c compressor, then yes I do have that. Thanks guys! | ||
| Dean Chrismon (Chrismonda) Member Username: Chrismonda Post Number: 166 Registered: 12-2002 |
Pre serpentine means multiple belts instead of one drive belt. | ||
| Ron Beckett (Ron_beckett) New Member Username: Ron_beckett Post Number: 13 Registered: 01-2004 |
Sounds like yours is pre-serpentine (the single belt) and has multiple belts. If so, the fan viscous coupling has a left hand thread. So to remove the fan, you'll have to hit the spanner (wrench) in an clockwise direction to loosen it. It may take a fair old hit with a hammer to loosen it. One or more of the bolts holding the pump on go into the water jacket and may be corroded. After cleaning them up (I use the wire wheel on my bench grinder) give them a smear with anti-seize before refitting (I'd give them all a smear with anti-seize). Ron | ||
| flyor (Flyor) Member Username: Flyor Post Number: 53 Registered: 05-2003 |
Take a few pictures with a digital camera so you know what it should look like when your done. Keep track of which fastener you remove from where, there are a few different sizes and lengths. You will have to remove the front power steering bracket. And, like Ron said you may have to smack the wrench to loosen the fan coupling, I used to use a large dead blow mallet. Remember it is a left hand thread. | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 1592 Registered: 02-2003 |
shit, i used loctite on the bolts that hold the WP on. rd | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 242 Registered: 11-2002 |
I always say this but will say again - careful not to over torque the bolts! I broke 2 just to make sure I was doing it wrong. | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Senior Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 470 Registered: 10-2002 |
LOL-Rob, hopefully it was red loctite to match all the rest of the bolts on your rig- Brian- I recommend you invest in a Factory Workshop manual. If you don't have one, here's a beginners primer: If it's your first pump R&R then you might find it helps to take pics before you start and during stages. If 88 then multi-belts like my 89 RRC. The advice on removal of fan and shroud is good. However, banging away on the fan with a rubber mallet or ? is only OK if you are replacing the pump. Otherwise you may be damaging the WP shaft/impeller. Use anti-sieze on threads of fan mount when reinstalling for future ease of removal. A couple other items you may want to consider starting this project are replacing all your belts and flushing and replacing all coolant at this time as well. The numerous bolts that hold the WP on are many different sizes/lengths. I take a piece of cardboard and stick the bolts through holes in it in the shape of the water pump so I know exactly where they go. Bag and mark all screws, bolts, etc when you remove. You also need a timing light to reset timing as you will r&r distributor. Advice-BUY GENUINE LR PUMP! Why? I've tried to save $ and bought aftermarket AllMakes, etc. and am now on my THIRD WP in 8 months! They only cost a little more than cheapo ones. Use a decent WP gasket. One that is not paper thin. Why? Don't ask...just learn from my mistakes. 1. Set crank timing to 6 BTDC on comp stroke #1 cyl. 2. Drain coolant 3. Remove Fan and radiator shroud. 4. Slightly loosen pulley bolts on WP. 5. Remove accessory belts by loosening various tensioners, etc. 6. Check and reset crank pulley to 6 degrees BTDC. 7. Remove WP pulley. 8. Remove distributor (IMPORTANT-be careful with hold down nut and piece-remove from distributor area so when you pull dist. the nut does not fall down the distributor hole in the timing cover!!) Be careful when removing wires from ignition module (side of distributor) the old wires can crack and break. 9. Carefully remove bolts from water pump and remove. 10. Carefully clean old gasket material from mating surface of timing cover-do not scratch or damage aluminum. 11. Install new gasket and pump with correct bolts (I use can of parts cleaner dip to clean all removed bolts before reinstalling) I also use Fel-Pro Grey Bolt prep on all water pump bolts. The manual specifies Loctite 572 thread lubricant on these bolts (THIS IS NOT RED OR BLUE LOCTITE BUT A THREAD LUBRICANT!) Carefully torque to correct spec. This varies depending on bolt size. I also do not use any gasket prep on WP gasket. I'm sure others will chime in with their preference. 12. Install Distributor (check crank pulley for 6 BTDC). Carefully line up distributor so that drive gears will line up correctly when you put distributor in and rotor points towards #1 cyl wire post in cap. Don't fully tighten hold down nut. Set so you can still rotate distributor but does not rotate too easily. 13. Install WP pulley. 14. Install new belts and tension appropriately. Use good quality belts or genuine. 15. Install fan and shroud. 16. Install 50/50 distilled water and coolant. 17. Start engine and rotate distributor so runs OK at idle. Top up coolant as needed and check temp so not overheating. 18. When coolant level is fine, check timing with timing light. Rotate dist to set at 6 degrees BTDC. 19. Stop engine and tighten distributor hold down nut. If I missed something I'm sure someone will point it out- Good luck- | ||
| Brian Ford (Rrover) New Member Username: Rrover Post Number: 20 Registered: 09-2003 |
Wow! thanks everyone for the help! I will order a new pump from Rover connection today. I am planning on doing the pump this weekend. It sounds quite involved, but i'll give it a shot. Thank you greg for the instruction. I'll print and use them during the installation. THANK-YOU! | ||
| Shane Ballensky (Shane) New Member Username: Shane Post Number: 1 Registered: 02-2004 |
do you really have to remove the distributor on an 88 RR? I just did this job on my 89RR in a gas station parting lot with the tools in the stock tool kit(mainly the 7/16 x 1/2 open end wrench)except for the fan which I was able to borrow a 1 3/16(I think)wrench. Never needed to touch the distributor. | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Senior Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 481 Registered: 10-2002 |
Not to remove the WP, but to get the the nuts that adjust tension on the power steering pump belt it would be very difficult. If you can remove water pump without removing power steering belt or can loosen that nut without removing the distributor then more power to you- | ||
| Shane Ballensky (Shane) New Member Username: Shane Post Number: 2 Registered: 02-2004 |
like I said I did it in a parking lot and removing the distributor is just added complexity for a newbie that I wouldn't do nor recommend | ||
| Ron Beckett (Ron_beckett) New Member Username: Ron_beckett Post Number: 14 Registered: 01-2004 |
I agree re the removal of the distributor. I didn't pull it out on my '86 when I did the pump. It adds complexity and the possibility of mistiming upon reassembly. Ron | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Senior Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 489 Registered: 10-2002 |
Like I said, if you can loosen that power steering adjust nut located behind the distributor without removing the distributor then go for it. Or, if you can remove WP without removing power steering belt then also go for it. (However, I like to replace this belt at that time since it's the farthest inside belt). It would definitely save time. |
