| Author | Message | ||
     Frederick Isaac (Freddyisaac) New Member Username: Freddyisaac Post Number: 17 Registered: 05-2003 |
Hi, Anyone changed the steering ro flexible coupler. Mine is cracked and the manual says the top joint is not serviceable. Is this true as I have seen the flexible couplers for sale Thanks Freddy | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 692 Registered: 09-2002 |
I replaced the whole shaft about a year ago. The coupler has cracked again recently so I'm going to try and rebuild it myself, possibly this coming week. I bought a coupler repair kit from Autozone - the smallest of the 'Help' couplers looks like it might fit and comes with hardware. The old hardware has to be destroyed to remove the coupler. I'll let you know if I get to it. SC | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Senior Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 484 Registered: 10-2002 |
Freddy- If this is for your 88 I believe the coupler is like my 89 and is towards the top of the shaft closer to the firewall than the steering box. Correct? I believe on Steve's '94 the coupler is towards the bottom of the shaft closer to the steering box and is a bit different than earlier models as it doesn't have the big rubber doughnut like earlier models (?). I've replaced the rubber coupler several times and decided that heat off the exhaust manifold was causing premature cracking. I rigged up a heat shield that I bought at a local speed shop to protect the coupler and it seems to help. However, hard offroad use will destroy the coupler eventually. The rubber coupler is inexpensive but I think some later models may use a better system without the big rubber coupler. Perhaps switching shafts to a later model one or disco one would cure this?? Steve? Anyone? | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 693 Registered: 09-2002 |
Greg, yes, my coupler is toward the bottom and that's the way I installed the replacement shaft last year. However, a LR mechanic recently told me that they (the dealer) never install replacements at the bottom, always at the top. It gets too hot and cracks the coupler (no shit!). They just flip the shaft around. As far as I could find out, there is no better shaft available for my year, but the coupler kit I bought looks to be a better donut than stock. It has a tire-like layered construction with webbing going through it. Should hold up better. How hard is it to replace the coupler? Did you have to cut/drill out the old hardware? SC | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Senior Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 485 Registered: 10-2002 |
Not too hard but still a pain. Requires loosening/removing some of the steering box mount bolts so you can rotate/move steering box so you can allow room for shaft to be removed. It has to slide off shaft at top (down) and bottom (up) thus need the extra room. Even if the rubber coupler was totally destroyed it would only allow excessive turning movement and not disassembly of the shaft. There is another smaller shaft that runs through the center of the coupler into the top shaft that would prevent this. Thus you have to remove the whole shaft to replace the coupler. Just make sure that you lock the steering wheel straight ahead and keep the wheels straight ahead or you'll end up with steering wheel turned when wheels are straight! It sounds like the replacement shaft you are using uses the layered type coupler predominant on your typical domestic truck. I wonder if anyone has sprung for one of the stouter Flaming River aftermarket shafts that are used by many trucks, jeeps, etc. I think it would have to be custom made for the size/spline steering shaft that Rover uses. | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Senior Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 486 Registered: 10-2002 |
This is what I'm talking about: http://www.flaming-river.com/truckshaft.htm Go to the bottom of page to "EZ Fit Steering Kit". They will make custom shafts and since they collapse they would be easy to R&R. No rubber coupling to wear out. | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 694 Registered: 09-2002 |
Thanks Greg, I already did the shaft R&R a couple of times - I did the box last year also. What I have this time is just the donut kit. It has the rubber thing and four bolts. I'm wondering how hard it is to extract the old donut from the shaft and replace it with what looks like a better one. I guess I'll find out this week - I found the previous shaft in the garage today, so no down time. That "EZ Fit Steering Kit" look cool BTW. That may be the final solution. SC | ||
| Greg Hirst (Gregh) Senior Member Username: Gregh Post Number: 488 Registered: 10-2002 |
I keep wondering what people who do a body lift are using. I would think a collapseable shaft with dual u-joints would be the only way to go. | ||
| Geoff 93 RRC (Geoff) Member Username: Geoff Post Number: 249 Registered: 11-2002 |
I flipped mine so that the rubber coupler was at the top, and then put it back thinking LR had some reason (crash safety?) to put it near the streering box. After reading that a dealer flips them, I guess I'll reverse it again. It gets hot as hell next to the manifold. | ||
| Hendrik Behrmann (Hendrik) New Member Username: Hendrik Post Number: 29 Registered: 09-2003 |
donīt know. Could have to do with safety (that a rubber doughnut is used). On the other hand the steering column is collapsible, too. Kind of overkill ? Perhaps its there for comfort, to reduce steering impulses beeing transmitted to the drivers hands ? I think that the shafts are interchangeable not only between Disco and RRC, but also with the Defender and RRC. Something that could be easily measured. The Defender has a collapsible shaft without rubber. I think an early RRC shaft is solid. And even cheaper. Should fit. (Disadvantage is that movement between the body and chassis of the RRC couldnīt be "buffered" as with the rubber thing. Perhaps another reason for using the rubber ? Havent had any bad experience with the 89ī shaft myself but donīt do much offroading. If there is a heat related problem the early, solid RRC shaft should be ok. | ||
| Steve Cooper (Scrover) Senior Member Username: Scrover Post Number: 695 Registered: 09-2002 |
I heard that there was an issue with the earlier solid shaft stressing the bulkhead (at least on the RRC), hence the switch to a flexible coupler. As far as a body lift goes, the angle of the shaft is very low compared to the vertical movement of a lift kit. I'm guessing there is enough flex in the shaft to compensate. SC | ||
| Frederick Isaac (Freddyisaac) New Member Username: Freddyisaac Post Number: 18 Registered: 05-2003 |
Hi, Yes on my 88RRC the rubber donut is at the top. This was what I was asking about. How easy is it to replace just this. Does the top joint need dismantling to fit a new rubber coupling. Thanks freddy | ||
| David Hobbs (Ca_surveyor) Member Username: Ca_surveyor Post Number: 52 Registered: 11-2002 |
Freddy, I have an 88RRC and the donut is at the top. Very easy to replace. I did mine by taking the entire shaft out because there is not alot of room to get a wrench at the bulkhead. The bolts were tight also. |
