| Author | Message | ||
     Jon Santana (Mustache) Member Username: Mustache Post Number: 123 Registered: 09-2002 |
so after bending 4 stock rods, i am finally gonna get off my duff and make a new one. i've been researching several options; Alumi-flex with stock ball-joints- should hold fine Sleeved stock with stock balls- might break balls Chrom-molly or jumbo steel with stock balls that will break. my question, first of all is, has anyone beefed up the tie-rod and give me some input on which direction to go? are any of the other models using bigger ball joints with the same 11/16ths thread that might work with the rrc's knuckles? or has anyone done a high-steer? i know about the right hand drive brit knuckle thing, but yet to see it done with out a good amount of math and fab. thanks! | ||
| Rob Davison (Nosivad_bor) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Nosivad_bor Post Number: 1725 Registered: 02-2003 |
http://catalog.roversnorth.com/catalog/large.taf?id=defsteering look at RNE442 a suggestion is replace this on your current truck. use a new HD trac rod with better ends on them use defender steering damper . plate will need to be welded to frame. should make sense if you think about it. rd | ||
| whylie (Chrisseries1) Member Username: Chrisseries1 Post Number: 69 Registered: 03-2004 |
hey john, check out www.pirate4x4.com they got some really beefed up series and rangies there. i mean hardcore rigs. look under the post picture section to view them. also rockware , i think that is what it is called . offers a track rod that is bent up and out of the way. some people sleeve the stock rods. but yes i no what you mean buy them bending and busting. hope this helps. | ||
| A. Ali (Alia176) Member Username: Alia176 Post Number: 170 Registered: 03-2003 |
I took the CB (cheap bastard) approach and sleeved the tie rod and the drag link and I've had no problems since. I also had to learn to read the terrain better and improve my tire placements. Of course, sometimes hitting obstacles is unavoidable but there's always room for improvement. Going to 235 85 16 size tires helped out a bit but there's always bigger obstacles, deeper ruts, etc.. Do check out the POR board for more beef! ali | ||
| Jon Santana (Mustache) Member Username: Mustache Post Number: 124 Registered: 09-2002 |
thanks, ya i'm on pirate... it's heated debate in favor of the beef, not the bend. i have the taps so im just gonna make one that's big n mean. i'm on 33x10.50's and never hit it, really. the problem seems to be the weight of the rig Vs. the big meats X the power steering = bendy tie-rod. i bent one from impact, but the other 3 times has been from steering the pig through a rock garden. just buckles under the weight. | ||
| marc olivares (Pugs) Senior Member Username: Pugs Post Number: 400 Registered: 12-2002 |
joe, make your own rods, i use a 1.250 dom tubing with w/ a .625 id (this is the correct hole size for the 11/16-16 tap ) on the RRC the front rod (drag link) is 30" top tapped left hand thread bottom tapped right. the track rod is about 34" and can be tapped however you want. on the drag link weld a few tabs for an OMESD02 damper and a bracket at the frame and you're done. if you want a bigger joint, use a chevy 1 ton joint and 1.5 dom tubing. with this joint you'll have to redrill the taper on your swivel housings. or straight drill with a .750" drill bit and run .750 Heim joints on a .750 bolt with a 1.5 rod. now that's beef, and most likely overkill for a RRC on 33's marc | ||
| Jon Santana (Mustache) Member Username: Mustache Post Number: 126 Registered: 09-2002 |
yer darn tootin' thats some beef! i wasnt planning on doing a drag link, but now you got me thinking. currently, i booty fabbed the bracket for the dampener that used to be on the bottom of the 3rd, up ontop of the stock drag used the rhd bracket to relocate the dampy, and that has been fine... but bigger is usually better in this case. |
