| Author | Message | ||
     Sean Johnson (Sean_j) New Member Username: Sean_j Post Number: 7 Registered: 05-2003 |
I have a 95 D-90 hard top and have recently taken the hard top off. I am in the process of trying to take the "tops" of the doors (with the sliding windows) off. After unsuccessfully trying myself, I have taken it to a mechanic and body shop and both have said that the "bolts are rusted to the sleeve" and that they would have to cut the door get to them for $1200. Is there any other way????? | ||
| Art Vigil (Colorover) Member Username: Colorover Post Number: 207 Registered: 02-2003 |
Sean, don't let either of those idiots hack on your doors. They're either trying to rip you off or just incredibly stupid. The sleeve to which they refer is plastic, not metal, and even if the sleeves are long gone, the studs aren't big enough to rust to the inside of the channel. First, remove the plastic door panels (by removing all the phillips-head screws around the perimeter) to get a better view of what you're in for. You should be able to then see the two studs that attach the window top to the door. Remove the bolts and spray the studs with WD-40, really soak 'em, trying to get the lubricant as far up into the stud channel as possible. Relax; drink beer (or whatever). After the WD has had some time to work, pull out your RUBBER mallet and carefully try to persuade the bolts upward while pulling upward on the window top, striking each side equally. You don't want to cause one side to rise up too high until the other moves as well. Also, avoid the temptation to "rock" the windows side to side, doing so can deform the metal in the door (soft aluminum - been there, done that). There is a piece of weatherstrip attached to the bottom of the window portion, try to lift it up with the door tops as it will seem fused to the door. It’s just stuck, be careful not to take any paint off with the weatherstrip. If tapping the studs doesn't work, open your window fully, lock it in place, and carefully tap the inside channel of the open window frame in an upward motion. Once it starts to move, unlock the windows and move them to the other side of the frame. Repeat the tapping on the other side of the window frame until it moves. You may have to keep moving side to side like that until the entire top is free. Good luck, be sure to post how it turns out or feel free to send me an email if you want to discuss it further. ~Art Vigil | ||
| Sean Johnson (Sean_j) New Member Username: Sean_j Post Number: 8 Registered: 05-2003 |
Thanks for your post Art. I guess the body shop guy sensed my disgust and "tried a little harder" after I posted that. He finally managed to get them off without any damage top the doors, it just took two guys (one to make sure one side wasn't going higher than the other) and a couple hours of tapping with a rubber mallet. He even made some customs caps for the tops of the doors wear the prongs went in from some old Disco II parts. Art - I really appreciate the advice you have offered. Every time I need some help you have an answer - had the body shop not gotten those things off I am confident I could have done it myself now. | ||
| Art Vigil (Colorover) Member Username: Colorover Post Number: 208 Registered: 02-2003 |
You're very welcome Sean, glad it worked out for you. ~Art Vigil | ||
| Chris von C. (Chrisvonc) Dweb Lounge Member Username: Chrisvonc Post Number: 1159 Registered: 07-2002 |
I had to sand down the plastic tubes a bit on ours when they started sticking. I dont know if we knocked them a bit crooked or what but it was getting to the point we could barely get the windows out untill I did. I dont know how smart that was or what the lond term effects might be but they are fine now. Chris von C. |
