By nadim on Monday, April 30, 2001 - 01:16 pm: Edit

I am about to venture into customizing my own rock sliders...therefore I am wondering which method is the best...

For example, the CT had the roll cage mounted through the body floor, and the roof rack through the roof...

I am therefore wondering if I can create a slider that is both mounted to the body and the chassis?

Any thoughts?

Thank you in advance

By Ron on Monday, April 30, 2001 - 01:31 pm: Edit

Why?

Nadim,
Since you seem to be the sort here is what I would do. Make them such that they mount to the frame via both the outrigger and through the frame rails directly. Weld something like 3/8ths stock to thick wall square tubing with the 3/8ths stock approximatly the size of the outriggers. Drill some holes through the outriggers and stock to afix them. This will serve to mount the sliders and reinforce the outriggers. Then weld at a 90 degree angle another piece of 3/8th flush with the frame rail. Drill through the frame and mount another backing plate on the other side of the frame so you can torque the bolts w/o bending the frame in. Gusset the sliders to the piece of 3/8th along the outrigger with a triangular piece of 3/8th and gusset the piece of 3/8s along the outrigger to the piece flush with the frame. Something on this order should work well.

Only half kidding

Ron

By nadim on Monday, April 30, 2001 - 01:57 pm: Edit

Ron,

That was my initial plan, but do you think that that will be enough?

By Ron on Monday, April 30, 2001 - 01:59 pm: Edit

Sure,
Just use really thick steel and say 1/2" grade eight bolts. If you need to make another outrigger between the frame and the sliders.

You frame is only 14 gauge steel, at some point that will bend before the sliders or their mounts will.

Ron

By nadim on Monday, April 30, 2001 - 09:26 pm: Edit

Ron,

this is what I have come up with:

1. 3" tube (as HD as I can find), bent a wee bit just to follow the lines of the sills.
2. galvanized tubes that run perpendicular to the main 3" tube, acting as jack points, and extend inwards alongside the front and rear chassis outriggers, and are fixed to these.
3. then a horizontal 2", 1/2" thick slab that runs under the body sills. this will help support the weight of the body.
4. a new outrigger on the middle portion of the slider for reinforcement.
5. if i want, i can add nerf bars just like RT's

so how bad is that?
p.s. i got the brake lines, thanks for the help there again

By Panel Beater on Tuesday, May 01, 2001 - 12:34 am: Edit

Sounds good to me, I'll get your business when you bash them up into your doors and sill.

By Ron on Tuesday, May 01, 2001 - 09:10 am: Edit

Nadim,
I think you will be fine as long as the mount to the outriggers are sturdy. Also leave some room for it to flex between the slider and the body. USeing tubes complicates the welding but not that much. The design is similar in principal to rockwares and I have not seen a set of their disco/RR sliders bend enough to damage the body.

Ron