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By Bill Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, May 03, 2001 - 06:18 pm: Edit |
can I mount hi lift on castor alloy spare (recessed lugs) or only stock steel (exposed lugs)? If yes, what manufacturer's mounting system will work?
By nadim on Thursday, May 03, 2001 - 06:32 pm: Edit |
That is what i was faced with, and then i did a custom mount that goes on behind the wheel, and has a female 2.5" tube with inside thread, and fabricated its male partner with a vertical piece that the hi lift mounts to...
get it?
???
By Bill Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, May 03, 2001 - 06:39 pm: Edit |
I think I get it - how about a picture (do you come around the side of the tire? over the tire?)
By nadim on Thursday, May 03, 2001 - 06:43 pm: Edit |
picture...well, n/a...
the "dick" comes from a triangular piece that has the 3 holes and is insirted behind the wheel...
then you tighten the wheel...
after that, you get the "T" looking mount, where the vertical part of the "T" here is the male screw in threaded for the female "dick" (), and the horizontal part of the "T" is a flat piece of iron, that has 2 bolts coming out of it...
then you put the "T" on, make it vertical...and bolt in the jack?
any better (i have finals, so not thinking straight!)
By Peanut on Thursday, May 03, 2001 - 06:45 pm: Edit |
i have a pic for something a little bit different...
By Bill Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, May 03, 2001 - 07:07 pm: Edit |
Nadim, clearer now - is this correct:
The interior-threaded female piece (female dick) is attached (welded) to the triangular piece that mounts behind the wheel.
The female dick fits through one of the two remaining open lug-holes on the rim.
The three holes in the triangular piece fit over the spare mounting studs.
The "T" jack mount screws into the female dick.
The "T" ends up vertical when tightened down, and hi-lift mounts to the bolts on the "T".
Am I on the right track?
Peanut dude - thanks for the suggestion, but I keep my nuts inside with me at all times...precious cargo, don't you know...
By nadim on Thursday, May 03, 2001 - 07:11 pm: Edit |
Bill!
I am impressed, you got it right...except for one thing:
the female dick come out of the center hole of the wheel, it is 2.5" O.D., and the plastic plug in the alloy wheel you have to pluck it out, and make room for the dick...
other than that, it is all great!
By Bill Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, May 03, 2001 - 07:21 pm: Edit |
NUTS! I thought I had it! Goin through the middle hole with the dick makes sense - kinda like popping the center cap cherry, huh? All puns intended.
OK, I'm serious here, even though it sounds bad - How far out does your 2.5" diameter female dick extend? I'm thinkin that you could stop the female dick just short of the center cap so that you could remove the "T" and replace center cap when jack is not in use, thereby maintaining stock look.
By nadim on Thursday, May 03, 2001 - 07:28 pm: Edit |
That is exactly it...
the whole thing can be mounted only when necessary!...just make sure that when you tighten your jack, it wedges onto the tire (TIRE), so as to act like a friction plate and forbid the whole assembly to work itself loose on the trail...(i am not smart, this happened for real, and i work on trial and error!)
Bill, i will be giving away my mount when i go back home to Lebanon in august, it is a shame that my LR assets are not here in the US...why am i giving it away?...I'll be fabricating a whole new 2 jerry can mount, 35" wheel mount, jack mount, and 2 shovel mount all in one...hehehe...
anyhow, good luck, and if you need anymore info...well, here i am!
By Discosaurus on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 10:42 am: Edit |
hehehe...female dick
Just go buy one from $afari Gard - same design.
keith
discosaurus
By nadim on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 10:54 am: Edit |
keith,
that cannot fit the alloys!
By Bill Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 11:06 am: Edit |
Yeah, I know about the $G, but I wasn't sure if it would fit my castor alloys...Nadim - you sure $G won't fit alloys?
My castor spare is currently vacationing in Denver, Colorado. I can have my buddy (primo welder) whip up the mount that you described, Nadim, for just the cost of materials (how much does $G cost?). My spare is in his garage right now. You should see the stuff this guy has fabbed for his Wrangler - utilitarian, beefy, over-engineered, etc. If I could only get him to upgrade from the Jeep to a D90 or Disco... He and a few of his engineers personally designed and fabbed all the gas & fluid exhange fittings for the International Space Station - he's just pissed that he didn't get to do the on-site install! He's opening a shop soon and I'll be taking a trip to Denver so he can get specs off my Disco and start making additions to my toy. I want a Disco with the Kung Fu grip.
By nadim on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 11:20 am: Edit |
No i am not sure, but if it did, they would have said so to sell more, and plus the way it is designed does not allow it to...
call them and check
By nadim on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 11:24 am: Edit |
Bill,
It is very easy to do, and it works great, plus it acts like a wheel lock...if you lock the jack on the stand, and tighten it on the tire rubber, then you cannot get to the wheel without removing the jack which has a lock...(i live in Lebanon, so a nice alloy is worth a lot!)
By Chris Browne on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 12:07 pm: Edit |
I strap my high lift to the rear seat mounts, pointing into the foot well. Enough room even with a 90/110 adapter fitted.
Keep a couple of 30 gallon trash bags handy when you get it dirty.
cost about $4 for straps
By Robbie on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 12:33 pm: Edit |
I bought a Terrain Master Hi-Lift mount, for a little extra, they add spacers and special mounts for the alloy spare (which I have). Cost 51.12pounds, approx $73USD. Since I was already ordering some things from them, the shipping was no big deal. Arrived in less than a week. Nice and beefy, and works well.
By RonL on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 01:06 pm: Edit |
I had two custom made jack holders for my alloys. It is very close to $G in design. I don't need the other one, make me any offer I want to sell it. You can even lock the jack to your tire.
By Bill Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 02:32 pm: Edit |
Ron - go ahead and email me offline (your address isn't included in your message). Pics would be helpfull. I'll take a closer look at $G design, too.
By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 05:17 pm: Edit |
The $G part is crap. If you see one on the road it is accompanied by like 5 million bungie cords to keep the jack from rattling its ass off...
Kyle
By Bill Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 05:27 pm: Edit |
$G "crap".....now where have I heard that before.....?
By RS on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 05:58 pm: Edit |
$G**D, YOU ARE THE WEAKEST LINK! GOODBYE!
By Ross on Friday, May 04, 2001 - 07:30 pm: Edit |
I inherited an $G hi-lift spare mount holder when I bought my first D90. The only problem I have experienced is the pin they use to keep the plug in had to be replaced with a new one. It cost about $4 bucks at Home Depot. I need to drill a new hole to use it on the Disco b/c it doesn't line up. I'm sure the ones specifically sold for the Disco don't have this problem. As for the quality, it is a very basic contraption and probably could be built out of the scrap pile. I wouldn't spend the money on the $G one uless I didn't have the time to find the parts for another one. Also, my D90 was shod with the stock BFG's in 265/75/16 and the jack fit no problem.
good luck,
Ross
By Ron on Monday, May 07, 2001 - 11:31 am: Edit |
The $G part is crap. If you see one on the road it is accompanied by like 5 million
bungie cords to keep the jack from rattling its ass off...
Yes,
But every mount I have seen requires the same. Unless you take the bottom plate off the f***er will rattle. I bungeed the plate tight and also put pipe insulation over the handle. does not rattle anymore, but this is a mount I made for the roof rack.
Ron
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