U-joints and radius arm correction (Rovertym or OME)

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Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By MarkII on Wednesday, February 28, 2001 - 10:44 pm: Edit

Please forgive yet another novice question but this is my first lift job. OK I've got the new Rovertym 2"ers and they are awesome. But I'm noticing some new vibrations (I think mostly because the stock is so soft and I've gotten used to the Cadillac ride). Since I had a drive shaft exit my old J**p at 60mph I have no urge to see that happen again. So to be on the safe side (in the event that the minor vibrations I am feeling are related to the drive shaft) and based on my other post/assorted E-mails I think I first need to look into rebuilding/replacing the U-joints - suggestions on where to purchase parts? Do I just get all new ones or should I rebuild? What does everyone think about radius arm correction? I noticed Bill B went with the OME castor corrections but some have gone with Rovertym. Pros and cons on these? and the real question I have What does radius arm correction do? Sorry for the log post and all the questions. Thanks in advance.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 09:28 am: Edit

The castor correction stuff from ARB basically changes the bushings at the ends of the radius arms, I think. The castor corrected arms are actually bent different. You will want spicer u joints when (if) you rebuild. With a lift wear is accelerated and accentuated. Before you go any further, I would pull the front shaft and see if the vibs are gone. Then you will know the problem and can go from there.

Ron

Alternatively you can get a heavier winch. I think the new M15000 and an ARB would weigh 260 or so. Maybe add a skid plate and get it to 300 ;-) Just kidding.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By MarkII on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 10:38 am: Edit

Ron,
I was thinking just that (pulling the shaft). Anything special I need to do once it is unbolted??? do I need to do anything as far as the center diff/tranny is concerned or just put it in D and go just like normal. You should have seen be with 200+ pounds of olympic weights strapped to the front of my truck for that test! Thanks.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 11:10 am: Edit

You will need to lock the dif if you want to go anywhere. Just put it in dif lock and go as normal. You will be fine as long as you don't need to go off road. Careful on the gas in corners as you no longer have full time 4wd stability. Driving with the shaft pulled will not damage the dif when it is locked as it would if the shaft were connected as there will not be any binding.

Cheers and good luck
Ron

You should have taken a picture of the weights. You could sell them as MarkII castor correction kit.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Bill B on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 12:42 pm: Edit

Ron - you're right about the castor correction bushings -simply are urethane bushings which have the bolt sleeve molded in off center. Obviously this is only good for minor castor correction, but on a 2" lift is more than adequate.

Bill B


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