Subtopic	Posts		Updated
	1998 Disco Stereo Controls	1		05/18 04:21am

By Audiophile on Wednesday, May 16, 2001 - 11:39 am: Edit

Was curious if anyone could supply me with the specs on the factory sound system in a 1996 Discovery. It is equipped with cd changer, and rear door subwoofer. Anyone know what the specs are on the subwoofer's amps? Amp for the other speakers?

Anyone that would like to share their stereo system upgrades with me, it would be greatly appreciated. I'm considering upgrading the satellites and either changer out the factory sub drivers for JL audio 6.5" subs and a new amp, or making a sub box to replace one of the rear cubbys (no jump seats) Thanx...

By Jon on Wednesday, May 16, 2001 - 02:06 pm: Edit

Hmmm... as far as I know, the head unit was a 90-watt unit. I've never read any specs on the subs amp. I do have a question, though. On the back of my head unit, there's a "MAIN" and a "SUB" jack. There's a cable plugged into my "MAIN" jack, but nothing in the "SUB." Anybody know what that "sub" jack is for?

By David Dryden (David914) on Wednesday, May 16, 2001 - 03:02 pm: Edit

OK, I've recently become the proud papa of a '97 Disco SE and have been tinkering around with the stereo system so I could add my own CD player. I can't tell you anything regarding the "specs" on the system but here's what I've learned regarding the hook-up so far...

The factory head unit does not have an internal amplifier. It had four line level outputs that feed one amplifier that is located behind the passenger (American) side kick panel. The amplifier apparently has an internal crossover that divides the signal between the four main speakers and the two subwoofers located in the rear door. The front tweeters on the A-pillars are hooked in parallel with the front main speakers. By looking at the factory wiring diagrams, it appears that the subwoofers are both dual coil units so that the subs are being fed by each of the four corners of the system. This is apparently how they are getting a "constant bass" signal no matter how you have the balance or fader set. With regards to the connections on the rear labled "Main" and "Sub", these are the antenna inputs. The later Discos have a diversity antenna system that uses dual antennas, one located in each rear side window. If you replace the head unit with an aftermarket unit you can use one of these antennas (it doesn't matter which) if you obtain a VW antenna adaptor (I got mine from Circuit City's Roadshop).

The only problem I've had with my installation is a little engine noise. I haven't bothered to try to correct it since it is minimal and I'll be installing a new amp soon anyway. If anyone has any questions, let me know.

David

By Jon on Wednesday, May 16, 2001 - 03:19 pm: Edit

Thanks. I knew the "MAIN" was the antenna jack, so now I know what the other jack's for. I've got a '95, so no diversity antenna :-(

By Danno on Wednesday, May 16, 2001 - 05:04 pm: Edit

the subs have their own amplifier. it is connected to the rear of the 2 subs. also if you looks at the FAQ of the rear window fix, you will see the amp for the 4 corners. the subs are 6" so 6.5" will be a tight fit. i think ADS used to make 6" woofers.

Danno

By Moe on Wednesday, May 16, 2001 - 05:54 pm: Edit

Audiophile, as mentioned above you should find a couple of flimsy amps. For good sound and elimination of engine noise these should be bipassed. I have a 4 channel 100W amp under the passenger seat and with a single CD player in the dash. The 4 channels feed the rear two Infinity dual cone speakers and a 8" Kicker. The CD powers the front Boston Rallys--tweeters and single cones in the door. All the stock speaker grills are used so it is inconspicuous. The Kicker is in a box in rear right cubby, and of course is a little more obvious. The system sounds real good.

If you are sold on the JBL 6.5 subs, maybe build a box that can be moved around. You will not likely get a good sound in the rear door.

I have also heard of some installing the extra amp in one cubby and the subwoofer(s) in the other--a nice way to get the amp off the floor, in case you like water.

Ian

By Gabe R on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 10:19 am: Edit

My approach was to replace everything!

Tweets:
Removed pillars and used velcro to secure and aim a pair of Infinity Kappas... they were included with the Infinity 4” Kappa Component system up front. Don’t damage the pillars or remove the grilles, you can re-use them for a stealthy appearance.

Front Door:
4” speakers on my ’97 Disco…. Limited hole and depth… Here’s the solution. Cut the plastic shield off, you won’t get much performance from it staying there anyway. Get a Dremel or Wizard and work down the metal opennings about 1/8 inch all around to squeeze the HUGE Infinity magnet through the door.
NOTE: Do not damage your door panels or original speaker grilles… you can re-use them for a stealthy appearance.

Rear:
I stepped up to a pair of Infinity Kappa 2-ways (with aim-able tweets) and decided that I wanted to go larger than 4” back there. If you want to keep it stock looking, use a set of 4” 2 or 3 ways for a perfect fit. I removed the speakers and the pillars in the rear door to expose the metal. I took a dremel to the small tabs and pre-drilled four new holes for each side… No more cutting needed here to fit my 5.25” Infinity Kappas.
NOTE: These are the only speakers that are powered straight from the deck. They are for rear fill and only the rear seat passengers have any kind of effect from them being there. I did not set them to be loud, just to set a nice rear fill.

Deck:
Kenwood Excelon 815 I think… one of those $400 ones and well worth every penny. This will be a very tight install. I wired everything I could outside of the vehicle and took a soldering iron to all of the connectors on the harness. Done properly, using solder and heat-shrink over your wires… followed by some wire loom and ty-wraps makes for the cleanest, most professional looking install IMO. Some people like to show this off and it make it very easy to work on or upgrade the system later since you avoid the famous “Birds nest behind the deck” scenario. Also watch out for those nasty spider webs under the carpet.
NOTE: Use a VOLKSWAGON harness for a perfect fit. Just exchange the red and yellow wires on the harness and the wiring will match the Disco perfectly…. I think I used the bottom one here. If in doubt about which harness to use (one of them is for the speakers… not used if amplifiers and new wires are installed all around) then “when in doubt, ohm it out… Time to get the meter.”

Amp/ Wiring/ Subs:
Simple box approach with amp mounted and secured to rear split seat (temporarily amp is mounted on speaker box and this was just a quick fix since I’m getting ready to build a custom box and install an amp mount on the rear seat.)

AMP: Rockford Fosgate 800A4 (100 watts x 4 into 4 ohms.) This monster powers the front component speakers and the subs. All is run independently

Wiring: All was re-done and Kappa Crossovers were mounted under insulation and carpet by driver’s and passenger’s feet. Get ‘em up high! Don’t install them where water or your feet can get to them (mine have gotton soaked several times while off-road, but at least I have a chance to turn the power off before the water affects the crossovers.) Run new speaker wire for all four speakers and pre-wire your sub box.

Subs: My preference is JL Audio W3, but I had a pair of W0 on hand so I used those. These are wired in stereo.

As for the system itself, it sounds great and can be tuned for just about anything with the adjustable crossover points from the Kenwood. I usually keep it ready for heavy metal and rock, but on occasion, I’ve thrown in a cheater bass CD and it sounded really great. I've installed a sealed sub box and it still shakes my nuts!
GOOD LUCK ON YOUR INSTALL……

By weespeed on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 02:09 pm: Edit

David,
Would you happen to have the wiring diagram for the subs in the door. Or actually the complete wiring from behind the deck. I just wanted to know what went where.
Thanks
Wee