Recovery Points

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Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jon on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 08:41 am: Edit

I've got the Land Rover brush guard on my truck, and it has 2 beefy (kinda) eye hooks on the bottom. My question is, are they suitable to use as recovery points? It seems that they're bolted to the frame, more or less, since they're at the bottom of the guard frame on the guard's mounting brackets. Just curious if anybody else has used them with success. Thanks!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 09:53 am: Edit

Yes , they work fine.... Thre will be some rotation of the guard if it isnt tight so make sure the bolts are all tight.

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Michel on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 10:38 am: Edit

Second that, more often than not, a new guy comes with a stock brush bar installed at the dealer and on his first pull it rotates and smacks the hood. So, change the bolts to grade 8, and torke them really tight, then all is we'll. I used that setup for 2 years, never a problem (lots to tugging and getting tugged and winched)

Michel

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jon on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 10:44 am: Edit

Cool, thanks. Yeah, the guard will rotate its way down some after driving over bumpy roads a lot, so thanks for the bolt upgrade tip.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 10:52 am: Edit

You are way better of ignoring them and useing the stock point on the left hand side.

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 11:00 am: Edit

Not true Ron , not true at all. I have had the RE connected to a few of those brush guard points in some pretty hairy situations. Havnt bent or broken one yet.

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 11:04 am: Edit

While that is true, my point is that IF the brush bar fails or bends up you get mucho damage (seen the aftermath). If the stock one bends you get minor damage to a $15 rather than the hood fenders and washer sqirter things.

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 11:08 am: Edit

Hmmm , hood and fenders?? LOL , I am sorry I didnt see that. That was stupidity. Not the brush guard.


Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 11:20 am: Edit

Well combination of both. You pull with any sort of upward force and the bar pushes up and puts some nice dents on the hood and the side hits the fenders. Same thing I think could happen if you tried to use a snatch strap and pull hard enough that the bar would rotate up. The real ticket to ride is of course the "jate" ring used on military defenders or you could also get another stock recovery point and put it on the other side doubling the strength by using a "bridal".

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 11:23 am: Edit

Hmmm , I winched some trucks up (Straight up) rock pile and there was no rotation. Yes , snatching will do it , I am not a big fan....


Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By michel on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 11:24 am: Edit

Ron, the brush bar actually replaces the stock point, so there really is not choice. Yes, you could use a jate ring on the frame, but the same story here, if you don't use the proper hardware and torke settings everything will fail. So, the brush bar is very good when installed properly.

Michel

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 11:29 am: Edit

Ron, the brush bar actually replaces the stock point

No, you just put it back on with the brush bar. Worked that way when we had that set up on the disco and it worker that way on the rangie. Do what you want put you before you pull hard enough you better really think about it. With Jate rings and the stock thing torque is not an issue (actually you want the jate ring loose). depending on what size bolts you have the friction on the bolt could be all that is keeping the brush bar from rotating. I guess maybe some fit pretty good, but on the ones we had they would rotate back far enough to knock off a washer jet.

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By garrett on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 02:11 pm: Edit

Hell you bump anything with that brush bar and you break those jet washers off. And I mean bump in a very light sense.......but who needs those things anyway. I have not bothered replacing them.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Mike on Monday, May 21, 2001 - 10:53 pm: Edit

Don't pull on the wrap-around brush bar. The brush bar mounts are about 6" below the median (vertical midpoint) of the frame (front horns). This puts an incredible amount of torque and strain on the lower bolts. This is what causes it to rotate up and into your fenders and hood. Been there, done that. One gentle tug nearly snapped a grade 6 bolt.

My suggestion is to remove your front spoiler and purchase front recovery points from Terrain Master (less than $100.00). It is very economical and will give you the piece of mind that you want when off-roading. Also, it gives you a nice jacking point for your high-lift jack.

If you have to be pulled out from the front, rig your recovery strap so it pulls from the recovery points from both front recovery points equally. This will distribute the force to both sides of the frame. This is not a sure fire-fix, but I have seen it work on numerous occasions. If you want a picture, email me.

Thanks,
Mike


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