Suspension lift VS body lift VS no lift at all.

DiscoWeb Message Board: Archives - All topics: 2001 Archive - Technical Discussions: Suspension lift VS body lift VS no lift at all.
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Towing capacity and tire size question  1   05/19 04:32pm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Bill on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 12:34 pm: Edit

Would someone be so kind as to take the time to explain to this newbie what the basic advantages/disadvantages are of those in the subject? None of them actually raise the axles further off of the ground, so what would the use be?

Is the main purpose to lift the body so one can put bigger tires on, thus lifting the axles?

I have looked at the Rovertyme suspension spacers and various suspension lifts. I realize that articulation is of importance to keep the tires in contact, but what would be the advantage of simply lifting the truck?

Sorry if I seem ignorant, but my only 4x4 experience happens to be in a bone-stock Nissan truck. Thanks for your time and information.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 12:41 pm: Edit

Bill,

1. Body lifts and rovers do not go very well and no one makes one you can buy off the shelf.

2. A suspension lift allows you to run bigger tires which get the axles higher off the ground but also it allows better approach, departure and breakover angle which keeps the body off things that would other hang up on.

3. The rovertym spacers are actually a way to lift the springs more and are not like body lift spacers.

Cheers
Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Rob Davison (Pokerob) on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 12:44 pm: Edit

more importantly the lift makes you look cool...

rd

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 12:45 pm: Edit

Yes it does.

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By quaddrive on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 08:43 pm: Edit

Ron,
I disagree. Body lifts on rovers are very easy and work very well. The main point of a body lift is to fit bigger tyres on without lifting the c/g too high as with a suspension lift. I am from australia and it is common to see a rr or disco with 33+" tyres achieved by a combination of suspension and body lifts.
The lowest point on any vehicle is the diff, you on put on a #" suspension lift and bigger tyres and your diffs are now higher(by tyre size) but your c/g is also way up. On the other hand if you do a little suspension and a body lift then the tyres will fit and your c/g is no where near as high(that is less likely to roll over, trust me i speak from first hand experience)
Hope ive helped
Giles Lilley

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Rob Davison (Pokerob) on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 09:20 pm: Edit

>if you do a little suspension and a body lift then the tyres will fit >and your c/g is no where near as high(that is less likely to roll over, >trust me i speak from first hand experience)


man... a 3" suspension lift vs. a 2"susp +1"body aint gonna make a noticible difference.

i've seen people first hand with 300+ pounds on the roof, 3" lift and 32" tires and they are still leaning around 40deg without a roll over.

it must have something to do with the south pole.... and magnets.

hehe
rob d

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By nadim on Friday, May 18, 2001 - 09:52 pm: Edit

quaddrive...

is there any place to get a complete body lift kit for a Disco?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Bill on Saturday, May 19, 2001 - 02:07 am: Edit

Thanks for the info guys...appreciate your time.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By quaddrive on Saturday, May 19, 2001 - 07:40 am: Edit

Hi!
To my knowledge there are a few places that sell body lifts for disco/rr. One is Rangie Spares here in Aus, cant remember their email but Wayne mentioned it a few posts back on one of the three link posts.
The safe operating angle of arr is 45 deg but in reality they will go to 55 deg. in std form however the bodyshell of a rr weighs approx 500kg and the chassis/engine/gearbox weighs 1400kg. From both technical and practical experience i know that to keep the same roll angle while increasing suspension lift you must increase wheel track 2x the suspension lift. For a body lift this figure is only 1x lift.
Last weekend i rolled my 87 rr which has a 1" body lift 3.5" suspension lift and 34x9.5 swampers on offset rims. It was only a light roll but while winching it back onto its wheels i measured its roll angle which was 42 degrees. This was with no rack and 4" wider track.
I have another truck with a similar setup but with 4" body lift and 1" spring spacers, this truch also has a rack, i hoisted one side until it started to tip and got out the old levogauge and its roll angle was still 50 degrees.
Dont get me wrong i'm not against suspension lift but a combination of suspension lift and body in my opinion is the best all round solution.
Regards
Giles Lilley

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Monday, May 21, 2001 - 10:12 am: Edit

The main challenge in body lifting a rover is the steering wheel and shift linkage. I can see 1in working but beyond that I don't know how it could be easily done. Drew's RR has one and it seemed to work ok, but I would say that unless you want more than 3-5in I would go suspension only.

Cheers
Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By quaddrive on Monday, May 21, 2001 - 07:56 pm: Edit

Hi!
Steering column is fine at 3-4" body lift, if you have an auto then no probs with shifting either at 4"( cable shift) if manual no real prob up to 3" high low lever must be extended (easy). Radiator lowered(easy) extd. brake lines, and Airflow Meter hose needs to be replaced with rubber spiral reinforced hose.
All in all about 1 days work for the competent DIYer.
Regards
Giles Lilley

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By M.Peters on Monday, May 21, 2001 - 10:13 pm: Edit

totally agree with giles... i've a body lift for the very reasons mentioned.. wanted to spread height increase across suspension -and- body to minimize cg increase... i've done two inches with NO MODIFICATIONS needed except to re-drill radiator mount locations behind grill area, adjust steering linkage, and adjust seat belt bolts.. the steering linkage looks to be able to support a 3" or 4" vertical increase as giles says.. mine's an auto, so cable-shift equals no probs there.... t-case lever, well, i could probably stand to add another inch or so to mine, as the shift knob now sits very low in the console, but is fully functional, with full range of motion.. anything more than 2", and you'll need to mess with this lever a bit. otherwise, no real issues.

/mike

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By herky on Tuesday, May 22, 2001 - 12:57 am: Edit

Can we please see some pics of these body lifted Discos? And the discos with 34 inch plus tires.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Tuesday, May 22, 2001 - 09:14 am: Edit

Interesting. Thats what I get for being a narrow minded american. Any pics or install tech would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By John on Tuesday, May 22, 2001 - 09:32 am: Edit

I have done 2 RR'ers with a 2" body lift....I will say I felt concerned about the steering linkage as it was at minimal end of adjustment, but no problems yet.... T case was a simple extension. Redrill for radiator mount a no brainer. Brakeline extensions a must as it generally is with a susp lift as well. Trucks with ABS sensors may need extending as well according to flex.Not hard to do...use grade 8 body bolts as you are in the 5"/6" lenghts.


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