By RVR OVR (Tom) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:02 pm: Edit

Can the rear end of DS1 even be aligned? I have uneven wear on the inside of the tires. From the back it looks as if the top of the rear tires are pointing inward. More evidence is from uneven rear tire wear.

Thanks,

Tom

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:07 pm: Edit

Well man , you might have some fried rear bearings. Or a bent housing. You owned it since new?

Kyle

By Ron on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:10 pm: Edit

Bent axle case, bad wheel bearings? Make sure the case is strait before you put the locker back there. Nothing to adjust. If it is the case I will be gussetting mine asap but no one I know has bent one unless in an accident.

I dunno

Ron

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:11 pm: Edit

Jumping will do it. I did a set of 9" rears up real nice in an older Bronco. But that was long ago in crazier days....

Kyle

By Ron on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:11 pm: Edit

does anyone know if there is supposed to be any camber in the rear wheels?

Ron

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:14 pm: Edit

Owned it since new. I guess I hope it is the bearings. Oh boy.

Tom

By Ron on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:14 pm: Edit

Ok Kyle,

Maybe I should have said accident or abuse, still the rover axle looks pretty well built from a case standpoint and I have not heard or one bending except when in an accident. American stuff I hear it all the time. Then again series cases had gussets and the new rovers ones do not so who knows.

Ron

By Ron on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:15 pm: Edit

Tom,

If it is bent I have a spare case you can have cheap.

Ron

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:24 pm: Edit

To measure if it is true might get a little complicated , but I will try my best to explain here. Let that slinky suspension drop out on both sides. Support the frame with stands. Keep the wheels on and measure acrost at 12:00 and 6:00. You should get the same measurements.

Kyle

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:25 pm: Edit

From the lip of the rims,,,oops....

Kyle

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:31 pm: Edit

0 camber............

Kyle

By Ron on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:47 pm: Edit

Ok so 0 camber rules out any lift related issues.
Does it pass the wheel bearing test? Jack it up and wiggle the wheel should be zero movement.

Ron

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 02:50 pm: Edit

Well , unless he pushes the pads back in the caliper he wont get any. You have to do that first to get a good idea..

Kyle

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 03:02 pm: Edit

Slinky Suspension...I prefer "swanky".

I will try the measurement. How do I go about properly testing the bearings again? Push the pads into the calipers? How do i do that?

Tom

By Ron on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 03:02 pm: Edit

Really?

Ron

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 03:05 pm: Edit

open bleed valve on caliper and push cylinders (brake fluid will purge out valve)

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 03:11 pm: Edit

No No , you dont need to open the bleeder. Just use a screw driver and place it between the pad and the rotor. Then ease it back in towards the caliper. You just need to get the pressure off of the rotor so a little is all you need..

Kyle

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 03:14 pm: Edit

I found that I couldn't push mine back at all without bleeding, or at least I found that I couldn't push hard enough without risk of slipping and scoring pad or rotor.

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 03:23 pm: Edit

The hell with the rotor , you cant hurt it bad enough with a screw driver. You have to be carefull with that pad though. He only needs to back it off a little.

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 03:27 pm: Edit

I'm also a big wimp, so that may have been my problem

By Jon on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 03:32 pm: Edit

Dudes, unscrew the brake fluid resevoir cap so the pressure can escape when you push the pads back in. Otherwise you can push all day and the pads won't move. No bleeding, wedging, rotor-warping, or anything other than unscrewing that cap and pushing the pads back in the caliper is necessary.

By Ross on Friday, May 25, 2001 - 06:23 pm: Edit

Using a C-clamp is the easiest way that I've found to push them in.

Ross