Front brake pistons

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Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Joshua Bova (Jbova) on Tuesday, May 29, 2001 - 05:24 pm: Edit

Had a problem with my brakes over the weekend, curious if anyone else has had similar problem.

Right front brake was essentially rubbing, noticed it only briefly on the way to NC from NJ, just a quick grab that pulled the wheel to the right. I had recently bought new brake pads and had them in the truck to change them as the mileage was getting high but hadn't gotten to it. I had new tires put on last week and looked at the brakes while the wheels were off, there was plenty of pad left so I decided not to change them before the trip.

Anyway, the problem became a bit more frequent while driving around the island (Hatteras) then one night, it really locked up, fortunately at slow speeds in the campground. I left the truck on the side of the road and in the morning was able to dive it as the rotor and pads had cooled. When I pulled the wheel, I found that the outside pad on both wheels had worn in a wedge shape. This was the result of one piston on each wheel sticking. I was able to get it to move by blocking the other three and applying the brake. This placed all the braking pressure on the one piston. With it all the way out, I liberally applied some PB Blaster and then manually worked the pistons by pushing them in and out. Worked like a charm.

Is this sticking piston a common problem? How likely is it to reoccur?

Thanks.

-josh

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Tuesday, May 29, 2001 - 05:46 pm: Edit

Relatively common in that I have heard of it. More likey for it to sieze and not go out. You need to rebuild your calipers. Inexpensive kits are available from the usual places and it does not look too hard. I think I am going to have to do it on the rangie as it is pulling a bit on stops so one might be on the way out.

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Frode Hübertz Haaland (Discofrode) on Wednesday, May 30, 2001 - 03:32 am: Edit

Relatively easy job. Take all pistons on the two calipers while you're at it. CHK my site for details on procedure.
Roverly Yours, Frode

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Frode Hübertz Haaland (Discofrode) on Wednesday, May 30, 2001 - 03:32 am: Edit

Sorry: home.halden.net/discovery

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Joshua Bova (Jbova) on Monday, June 04, 2001 - 04:41 pm: Edit

Frode,

You mention on your site that forcing the pistons back will only make it worse. Could you please elaborate on this? I don't think that I used excessive force, but I certainly had to push a bit. I pushed placing the shaft of a screwdriver against the piston and levered it off the rotor.

Thanks.

-josh

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Frode Hübertz Haaland (Discofrode) on Tuesday, June 05, 2001 - 03:21 am: Edit

Josh!
Difficult to say in writing what you feel doing it... It SEEMS you did not use "excessive force" the way you describe it. Because of the fluid in your lines, you will HAVE to push a bit to "move" the fluid back to Girlings property in engine bay. Pushing really hard will do damage to either/or seals/pistons/bore.

Point is this: If piston is corroded, the piston will rub and scratch the bore. If piston is corroded, often bore will be to. Uneven surface/scratched bore will eventually make the seals fail and leaks occur.
A corroded piston will scratch the seals when the rust passes over the rubber seals.
So: If piston is corroded, it will eventually get to its final rest in its bore, and you'll have a helluva job to remove it. Best to take it while it is relatively easy to push it out. Having the piston ou is what spanner monkeys describe as main problem doing calipers.

Don't forget that when driving, the piston will have to move into the bore without that big screwdriver... The fluid returning to Girlings part of engine bay is what "sucks" piston back into bore.

I guess best way of settling issue, is to try pushing back a piston that's OK. Feel the force needed to push back, and feel the force needed for bad one.

If my memory serves me well, the full pack of seals for the rear are about £5, and same price for each of the 4 pistons. SUM total 25+ brake fluid.

Hope this helps!
Frode

home.halden.net/discovery

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Joshua Bova (Jbova) on Wednesday, June 06, 2001 - 08:25 am: Edit

Thanks, I have been driving around for a little over a week since I replaced the pads, I'll pull the wheels tonight, take the pads out and see how the pistons are working. When I was in there last time, as I said, only one piston on each wheel was sticking, and after I cleaned them, they operated as smoothly as the rest and there was no sign of corrosion. Thanks for the clarification. I am not new to cars but I am less then a year into Land Rovers and have a lot to learn.

Thanks again,

-josh


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