By ken on Wednesday, May 30, 2001 - 06:59 pm: Edit

Hi All,

couple of quick questions...

O2 sensors...
i've heard there is a rumor that Nissan? o2 sensors are "economic" replacements to the $$$.$$ LR parts. Does anyone know the part number for the Nissan o2 sensors?

Center differential...
went off roading memorial weekend only to find out that my center diff wouldnt do anything except high lock... i couldnt get the damn thing to go into low... is something broke... can i just "lube" something up and have it work or am i hostage to the dealer for $$$.$$

weird beeeeeep...
you know when you hope in your disco and turn the key you hear a ding dong, ding dong, ding dong... then all is quite... well my disco does two ding dongs then gets stuck on dooonnnnnnnnnggggg. as in it NEVER stops beeping. this is driving me crazy!!! its real embarassing when i have passengers. conversly i ALWAYS have my radio on... has anyone had this problem..

any help is appreciated

thanks

KEN

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Wednesday, May 30, 2001 - 08:51 pm: Edit

Damn I wish I could help with the permanent ding but I have no idea other then the alert module is screwed up and needs replacing.
As far as no low lock.
There is a solonoid that prevents this shift above certain speeds I think. It get stuck and you get locked out of low. PK has worked on his before because of that so he can shed better light as far as how difficult the repair is in the truck. I know its only three bolts that hold it in once you get to it.

Kyle

By E Snyder on Thursday, May 31, 2001 - 01:53 am: Edit

Diff lock may simply be stuck from lack of use or mud. PB blaster or similar on any levers you see around the T-case might help. Try shifting into neutral at various speeds and then working diff lock. Once you get it unstuck (or repaired, as Kyle suggests) it helps to run through the diff lock gears occasionally, even if you don't need them. Keep them loose for when you really do.
As far as the beeping, thank Lucas and turn up the radio. :-)

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, May 31, 2001 - 11:41 am: Edit

there should be a relay box for the ding-donger that you can just yank out, take out in the desert, and shoot. That should make you feel better. I did it with my j**p's annoying buzzer and, man, it felt great!

By ken on Thursday, May 31, 2001 - 02:32 pm: Edit

Hey guys

thanks for the suggestions!

where exactly is that solonoid?!?!?

is there any lube that i should/shouldnt use... WD40, dry silicon spray, white lithium grease, motor oil????

here's more interesting info on the DAMN beeping... curious... when the beeper is beeping... my rear window wiper doesnt work and vise versa, also "tied" into this whole "lucas elec" wierdness is that the interior dome light doesnt work on "door mode" (what i mean by that is there are three positions for the interior lights 1. off 2. on 3. on when the doors are open, off when there closed... more wierd is that the minute i put in my (drivers side) seat belt the beeping immediately starts... i know this cause if i just wait the buzzer, ding dongs two times then goes into annoying mode... but if i clip my seat belt in before that... Beeeepppppp

is there some "module" that controls all this???

HELP

By Jon on Thursday, May 31, 2001 - 02:39 pm: Edit

It almost sounds like the chime module is in the steering column... I say this because I got in once and my knee smacked the steering column shroud, popping it in half, and the "ding-dong" didn't work. But I snapped everything back together and it worked fine, plus it seems to be loudest from the column shroud. I don't know...

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, May 31, 2001 - 03:51 pm: Edit

You've got some funkadelic wiring, man. I think Eric was right - you can thank Lucas! Get the donger to sound and then hunt for the source and kill it. (steering column?)

By Ron on Thursday, May 31, 2001 - 04:05 pm: Edit

It sounds like a bad ground. Now of course that is the series guy in me talking but I think that is a good place to start. The obvious would be too look for a short somewhere, but this kind of funkiness is usually ground related.

Ron

By Andy on Thursday, May 31, 2001 - 04:17 pm: Edit

Mine did some funny stuff when I blew some major fuses (whoops). Check ALL of the fuses under the hood, and in the car. It may sound funny, but my Disco made some funny beeping sounds and the dome light didn't work right as well as the rear wiper.

Check it out....As far the the diff goes- WD-40 the hell out of it.

Andy Nix

By Ken Beck on Thursday, May 31, 2001 - 04:36 pm: Edit

Ken,

The problem with transfer case stuck in High is the solenoid. Speaking from recent experience (2 weeks ago). Here is how you can check.

Park in your garage, or somewhere real quiet. With the key at the on position without starting the truck(all the dash light comes on), press the buttom on the shift knob; ie in order to go from Park to reverse on the shift knob, you need to squeeze the shift lever/knob. You should hear 2 tick noise one comes from behind the glove box (solenoid relays) and one from your transfer box (solenoid retracting). Your solenoid retracks when: pushing knob in park, and neutral. The transfer box tick noise might be quiet, but definately audioable.

If no tick/click noise behind glove box (relay is bad or microswitch in the shift level (Park, R,N,D level not the transfer case level) is bad.

If no tick/click noise from transfer box..... which is what happen to me, then the solenoid is bad. I think is about $97 dealer price. I took my solenoid out, disassemble it and sand out the corrosion. However, dissamble the solenoid is not easy. You can only access the solenoid by:

1. removing center console
2. drilling out all the rivets
3. access the top of transfer box, the solenoid is held down by 4 8mm bolts, and once the bolts is removed, you need to twist the housing left and right to break the silicon sealant.
4. with the solenoif removed, you can test it by squeezing the parking level and see if the pin pulls back.

Ken Beck

By ken on Friday, June 01, 2001 - 01:58 pm: Edit

Hey All

thanks a ton for all the "debugging" help.

as for the ANNOYING BEEEEEPINGGG i will start looking at "grounding issues"... hey ron, et al... any tips on how to look for bad grounding?!?! not really sure how to track down a grounding issue???

i will run through Ken B's solinoid checking proceedure... any chance that the beeping is because of a bad solinoid?!? maybe its my rigs way of saying "hey my solinoid is bad"... maybe its Lucas's way of messing with my head...

lastly, does anyone know/have experience with the aledged "1991 Nissan to 1995 Disco" 02 sensor replacement??? can it really be done, my understanding is that the 95 disco has 4 different 02 sensors and the nissans will work at only $25 p/sensor. vs. something like $90 for LR...

thanks

KEN

By Ron on Friday, June 01, 2001 - 02:04 pm: Edit

In my somewhat limited experience with true lucas wierdness the problem has stemmed from a bad ground. Basically find where the grounds are and wiggle them. if it gets better (or worse I suppose) then that is the problems. Thats the simple answer. The more complex way means testing circuits and such, and although I have done it. 9/10 I just wiggle a few wires and maybe take them off and clean the contacts up and all is well. Since you have massive wierdness I am thinking a ground came off and you are getting a back feed. This is all conjecture as I have not had to deal with anythign this bad yet.

Ron

By Jon on Friday, June 01, 2001 - 02:30 pm: Edit

If you find a Land Rover oxygen sensor for a '95 Disco for $90.00, tell me where. Those suckers are expensive even from England. But I too would like to know about alternative sensors, since I seem to remember somebody mentioning it on here before but my searches turned up nothing...

By Ken on Friday, June 01, 2001 - 03:32 pm: Edit

Hey All...

heres a tip (maybe you already know this) to save you money...

the two little lights on either side of the gear shifter (auto) that illuminate the shifter position... P R N 1 2 3... the dealer wanted $5.50 each!! i went down to fry's electronic (local elec. superstore) and found the EXACT same bulbs for .89

the mfg was Black Point products and the part number is MB-0168.

someone should create a conversion page for LR parts, ive read some posts about somekind of motor that is an exact replica of a GM part... albiet much cheaper.


KEN

By Jinwoo on Friday, June 01, 2001 - 03:37 pm: Edit

Try Nathan Crabtree. He probably get you O2 sensors for your 95 Discovery around $90 and he said that's exact replacement for genuine O2 sensor. (No need to cut and rewire...)
His email address is boatbuggy@aol.com if my memory is correct. I got OME steering damper from him recently.

regards,
Jinwoo
95 Discovery

By Ken Beck on Friday, June 01, 2001 - 03:39 pm: Edit

Ken,

Forget about the ground, there is nothing to ground??!!! Grounding suggestion is a loose term with no specific detail.

If you are getting a constant beeeeeeep, it is the neutral switch gone bad, this the neutral switch on the transfer case level L-N-H. When you shift your transfer case into neutral, it willhave a constant beeeeeeep to warn you, once you are in low or high, it pushes a pin on the switch to open the circuit, thus beeeep stop. to check, craw under the truck, and reach up to the top of the transfer case, there should be 3 wires harness, one goes to the side of the transfer case or temp (not this one) one goes to the solenoid, and last one goes to a 3/4 diameter by 2 inches long metal switch (it looks like a AA battery), follow that wire until you feel the plug, disconnect that plug and see if the beeeep goes away. Again, that switch opens the circuit when in H or L and close the circuit when in neutral thus.....beeeeeep.

Ken Beck

By Scott B on Friday, June 01, 2001 - 11:06 pm: Edit

I had the same problem of not going into low gear. I had to take it to the dealer. They found a 12? terminal connector that had corroded (said it was not the first time). They replaced the connector and terminals. When I got my truck back it shifted into low range, the ignition switch illuminated and the key chimed plus other electrical items worked.

By Jon Williams (Jonw) on Saturday, June 02, 2001 - 12:39 pm: Edit

So that little switch is the "Neutral" warning chime switch, huh? Mine must be bad, as it no longer gives me the long tone when the t-case is in Neutral. Or the plug fouled ...I'll have to check it out.

By Mike Holland LRG on Saturday, June 02, 2001 - 08:29 pm: Edit

If your rear wiper doesn't work and you have a constant beep you have a bad door switch or a door is open. an easy way to test is to unscrew the push button switch on the door jamb and ground the wire that is connected to it with the key on and the rear wiper turned on. When the rear wiper starts working you have found your problem. ( I am a factory trained dealer tech )

By ken on Sunday, June 03, 2001 - 01:37 pm: Edit

FYI All

Hey Mike H. that was the first thing i tested (door switches) i tested all four door switches, the tail gate door, and the hood switch. all switches "worked" (gave continuity/no continuity when opening and closeing the switch), i then turned my attention to the lead that pluged into the switches and they all seem to give me power... any other ideas???

Hey Scott B... where is that "terminal 12" located... is it easily replaced. did the dealer chg you an arm and a leg???

Hey Ken B. thx for the instructions. i unplugged the neutral switch and the damn thing still beeeeps so does that mean my solinoid is bad?!?! i can't hear any audible clicks (or not sure what i'm listining for) its kind of hard to listen for clicks inside the truck... (AKA the wife wont get near the truck to help me... she thinks its a "lemon" and is possesed by "gremlins" this was frustrating the heck out of me so i dissasembled the center console... Wow... what a job... dang, did you really drill out all nine of those rivits!?! i'm pretty mechanincal but i'm not brave enough to drill out rivits :-(. i'm afraid that i'm gonna have to take it into the shop (not the dealer) any idea how much this "should cost"

HELP... any help before i hand my truck and wallet over to the shop is appreciated... my truck is bleeding me to death...

THanks

KEN

By ken on Sunday, June 03, 2001 - 03:18 pm: Edit

hang on!!!

i take back the what i said about disconnecting the neutral switch...

i just reassembled my center console (minus one tiny screw... ugh)and while doing that i needed to move the center diff shifter. and i'll be damned... it moved... so i quickly reassembled the console. fired up the engine and took it for a spin... now i can shift the differential from high to neutral to low!!!! but one thing that i did notice is that even when i "lock" (move the shifter to the left once selected in high or low) the indicater light (light in the dash that looks like a drive train) doesnt light up...

so new question... what is the worst that can happen by not re connecting the neutral switch??? how much does this switch cost to replace???

KEN

By ken on Sunday, June 03, 2001 - 05:14 pm: Edit

DOH!!!

i take back the take back... as soon as i returned to the disco... the beep came back... so pulling the netural switch plug did not fix the problem... so what next?!?! the solinoid it self??

HELP... frustrated with the funky electronics...

KEN

By Slider on Sunday, June 03, 2001 - 08:04 pm: Edit

This is getting better and better!!!

I had the Ignition switch recently replaced in my 95 (thanks Mike H LRG) and I have 2 different kind of ding dongs now. No problems, just different...

1 is when starting the truck, that bell seems to come from the steering column.

2 if the key is in the ignition and your exiting, or left lights on.

I think of it as unique...???

So, check both those areas.
I have a 5 speed without the lockout feature, thank god!!

By Ken Beck on Monday, June 04, 2001 - 09:12 am: Edit

Ken,

How did you access the neutral switch from within the truck? The plug is on top of the transfercase access from under the truck. What problems do you still have?

1. beeeep noise could come from neutral switch. neutral switch only serve as warning, does not inhibit H-N-L shift

2. Solenoid only causes transfer case not able to shift from H-N-L, will not cause beeeeep.

To drill out the rivet, used a 1/8 or 3/16 drill bit. Used 1/4 inch rivet from Home Depot. If you gotten out the center censol, you did half the work!

Ken Beck

By Jon Williams (Jonw) on Monday, June 04, 2001 - 09:30 am: Edit

Why is 2 different chimes unique? Mine's been making those noises forever and it still does. One is the double "ding-dong" at start-up, the other is the "headlights are on, stupid" beeping reminder. Then there's the constant beep when the t-case is in Neutral, which now works thanks to a little wiggling/working of the switch.

By ken on Monday, June 04, 2001 - 09:49 am: Edit

Hey All

i accessed the neutral switch from underneath the truck... thank god LR are tall enough to crawl under... then using the work shop diagram, i successfully felt for what was in the diagram.

So Ken, from your description it sounds like neither one (Neutral switch or Solinoid) will cure the problem?!? could both be bad? or could they both be acting badly because of a third part? (some other switch)

as for un riviting and re riviting, is it the diff shifter that i want to un rivit? from the underside of the truck it seems like the area where the diff shifter sits is to far forward to reach those parts?

KEN

By Ken B on Monday, June 04, 2001 - 09:59 am: Edit

You drill out the rivet from the inside of the truck (drilling out the head of the rivet). You drill from within the truck after removing the center console. You need to drill out all the rivet, since the two shift plate is rivet together. You need the extra room the access the solenoid.

By dave on Tuesday, June 05, 2001 - 12:43 am: Edit

Ken,

What did you fasten the panels back down with? Did you rivet them? Sheet metal screws?

By Ken on Tuesday, June 05, 2001 - 10:08 am: Edit

Dave,

You revivet them, Home Depot sell aluminium 1/4" rivet, they fit good. When you drill out the rivet, use 1/8 or 3/16 bit, you only need to drill out the rivet head. Then the rivet head usually breaks free on the drill bit. I took a center punch and pop the remaining bottom half of the rivet down (falls out from under the truck)

Ken Beck

By ken on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 03:41 pm: Edit

hi all

first let me say thanks to all of you who tried to help me...

but the bottom line was that i had to bring the beast in to the shop. after 5.5 hours of labor @ 90.p/h the problem was identified and resolved... im not complaining, cause after putting up with the Beeep for weeks and days of debuggin on my part i couldnt figure out the damn thing.

it wasnt the neutral switch or solinoid under the truck. nor was it any of the switches under the console... it WAS a "relay" behind the glove box. i say "relay" only because its not what i consider a "relay" it was more like a "terminator"... essentiall it was where 19 wires connect into a plug that terminates them. appearantly, there was an "update" on early model Discos that fixes a problem that allows water to seep into the passenger side foot well. obvioulsy my disco didnt have this "update" (i always thought it stupid that water seeped in my rig when i went throught the car wash!!!)

anyway to make a long story short... the water had been seeping in and dripping on this terminator, causing it to oxidize... to the point of disintegrating... so when the mechanic tried to clean it, the pins crumbled and broke... the simple fix was to cut all 19 of the terminiated wires and solder them back in the proper order...

the good news is that this completely fixed my center diff problem. the bad news is "I'm another day older and Much deeper in debt"

hahaha

KEN

By dave on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 03:44 pm: Edit

1/4" rivet? Thats a pretty big rivet. My rivet gun will only use 3/32'', 1/8'', 5/32'', and 3/16'' rivets.

Are you sure about that size?

Thanks

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 03:53 pm: Edit

ken, was water-seeping fix "update" your referred to a warranty item, or better yet, a silent recall item? If so, I'd demand they fix this failed component free of charge.

P.S. told you it was a relay...

By Gabe Isham (Jet992000) on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 04:42 pm: Edit

Wonder what the fix was?

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 04:48 pm: Edit

very expensive duct tape? a very special and exotic rubber gasket?

By Ron on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 05:01 pm: Edit

a very special and exotic rubber gasket?


You mean like chewing gum?

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 06:21 pm: Edit

Not just chewing gum, Land Rover certified chewing gum