By Jay R. on Wednesday, June 06, 2001 - 04:02 pm: Edit

Hi All,

I recently installed the RTE 2" lift and have a lot of vibrations & handling problems at hwy speeds. I measured the angles on the front and rear diff and it looks like they are way off. John @ RTE suggested that I correct the angles by using the radius arms & rear links. I have ordered the RTE front radius arms and the rear links to correct the castor/pinion (??) angles. I believe these should correct the handling problems.

Regarding the vibrations, I checked the front driveshaft. All nuts/bolts are tight. It has been greased recently. There is no play in the driveshaft. I cannot move the driveshaft by yanking in any direction. Visual inspection of the UJs does not reveal anything. I am leaning towards ordering a custom Double Cardan (CV) front driveshaft from Tom Woods @ 4xshaft.com. Will this solve the vibrations ? Is there anything else I can check ?

I would like to get this resolved before the first week of July as I am planning a long distance trip with the Disco and do not want to take any chances.

I spoke to 4xShaft and they asked me to measure the driveshaft length from "flange to flange" and that I would need adapters at the xcase and at the diff end. Is this true ? Is the DS length a standard length or does it vary from rig to rig ? Any pictures of what length to measure ? How do I go about ordering a custom driveshaft ?

Thanks for any input.
Jay R.

By Joy Biran on Wednesday, June 06, 2001 - 05:05 pm: Edit

Hi Jay,
I have a 5 ' lift on my disco and had a lot of vibrations until I installed a double cv joint driveshaft in front.
You should measure the driveshaft from flange to flange and let the workshop do the rest.

you can see my disco in the gallery.

Joy Biran

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Wednesday, June 06, 2001 - 05:15 pm: Edit

Jay,

I have a 3" RT lift and a Tom Woods shaft. I just called them to see what my measurement was. It is 25 1/4 inches flange to flange. That measurement was taken with the front axle at full drop with my 3" lift and longest travel Rancho's that John was recommending at the time, so you should be covered with this measurement. They will know what you need as far as everything else is concerned on adapters/flange hole sizes, etc.

To order it, just give them a call and tell them that legth.

However, before doing all that, you may be spending money you don't need to spend. It is quite possible that the RT components will solve your issue. On the upside, the Tom Woods shaft and U-joints are stronger than stock, so you gain that anyway.

By the way, when you get the rear links, be sure to ask john how many spacers to use, or you will just overcorrect the problem.

My 3" lift did not need a new rear shaft as my 97 does not have a rotoflex. If yours has a rotoflex that may need replacing, too.

Tom

By Jay R. on Wednesday, June 06, 2001 - 06:14 pm: Edit

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the response.

I have the 2" RTE lift w/ Rancho shocks.Is there any chance that I might need a different length ? Please understand that my knowledge is very limited on these issues. Hence the question.

John @ RTE mentioned that the radius arms & rear links might solve the issue. He also mentioned that the vibrations *may* still be there requiring a driveshaft. As I mentioned, I need to get the rig ready for a long trip in early July. I might not have enough time to install the RTE parts and then decide if I need the driveshaft. In any case, the TM shaft & UJs are sturdier than stock and if I get it replaced, I need not worry about the stock DS/UJ failing and tearing things underneath.

I cannot sleep properly if I know that the UJs on the front DS might go south due to the short length & 2" lift. I prefer to take the monetary hit right now and replace it. Atleast I won't be stranded in the middle of nowhere searching for UJs. :-) Hopefully. :-) :-)

Cheers,
Jay.

By Jay R. on Wednesday, June 06, 2001 - 06:18 pm: Edit

Forgot to add.

I have a 97 Disco SE. The rear DS has UJs. No Rotoflex.

Here is a description of my Disco.

97 Disco SE
RTE 2" lift
Rancho RS 9000 shocks
RTE HD sliders
ARB non-airbag bumper
RN HD front skid plate
Lightforce RMDL170 mounted on the ARB
and one clueless driver :-)

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Wednesday, June 06, 2001 - 06:35 pm: Edit

That is the same mentality I used when buying mine, so no argument there. It is like buying insurance.

I am not a pro at this stuff either, but I feel pretty confident that it will work for you. However, it is not a bad idea to call John at RT to confirm. I have the 9207 Shocks in the front and also have the front castor correction links. I think the worse case scenario will be that it could be longer than you need, which is no big deal, since the shaft expands and contracts like an accordion, anyway. You will also have room to grow!

One other thing to consider is your front sway bar. How close is your shaft to the front sway bar right now? The Tom Woods shaft is much thicker, so it could rub, especially at full front axle droop. I had custom sway bar mounts built to alleviate this problem. They basically extend the mounting perch of the sway bar and put the bar out of the way of the shaft. Mike at Aedofab (mike@aedo.net) has them for 29.95 + shipping. Drop him an e-mail if you are interested.

Tom

By Moe on Wednesday, June 06, 2001 - 09:02 pm: Edit

Jay, I installed the Great Basins Rover CV front shaft and it cured most of the vibrations from my lift. For some time, I did have my front sway-bar on so they are compatible.

http://www.greatbasinrovers.com/

After having a computer virus, I lost your email. Drop me a line and I will come pick up the spring compressor. Maybe we should test that RTE stuff on the Shaw Lake Trail (outside of Goldendale).

Ian

By MarkII on Wednesday, June 06, 2001 - 09:54 pm: Edit

Be very carefulllll! I too have the Rovertym 2" lift (with no ARB on the front so it really works out to about 2.5"). I went through the whole "it has to be the front drive shaft" thing and in the end it was a loose rear shaft. Sure felt like the front. Could have sworn it was the front, but nope it was the rear and I could yank on it all day long and not know it. Finally I just took it off (that is when I noticed the bolts weren't real tight) took it for a spin - felt good - put it back on - took it for another spin - still felt good - finally got a good nights sleep. I did get a new front shaft from Great Basin. Fit great but I can't say I really needed it since it didn't get rid of all my vibe issues. I do also have the Rovertym rear trailing arms but not the front castor corrected arms. My recommendation take off the front shaft if you are smooth then put it back on and take off the rear shaft and see if you are still smooth. You may not need to change anything. If one or the other still leaves you vibrating at least you know where to look. Good luck in your quest for a smooth ride again.

By Mike B. on Wednesday, June 06, 2001 - 10:06 pm: Edit

I just hate combination problems. They are so hard to figure out. You have a combination problem!

First, go and have your front end aligned. Anytime you change your suspension, you should get your front end realigned. Mine was totally out of wack after the spring installation. The front end re-alignment made all of the difference. This should correct your handling problems.

Also, are you sure you installed the springs correctly? Don't laugh, I know of someone who switched the fronts and the rears. Also, does it sit level (front to back and left to right)?

Also, did you put your tires back on the same location after the upgrade? If so, that could be the source of your vibration. If not, remove front drive shaft to see if that corrects the problem.

There are only 4 bolts holding the drive shaft in place. Take off the front drive shaft and lock your center diff (high range).

If this eliminates your vibration, then by all means, go and get yourself a new front driveshaft or a OME Castor Correction kit. I'd hate to see you jump the gun and spend $500 that may not solve your problems.

LoL,
Mike B.

By Jay R. on Wednesday, June 06, 2001 - 10:54 pm: Edit

Thanks for all the responses. Based on the info you guys gave me, here is my plan.

(1) Correct the castor/pinion angles using the RTE front radius arms & rear links. I know I need them as I have measured the angles at the diffs and they are way off.

(2) Get the tires balanced and an alignment job done.

(3) If vibration still persists, investigate the driveshafts.

I have already checked for play in the driveshafts and tightened all the bolts. I have also greased the UJs in both driveshafts. My only option would be to figure out which one it is and replace it.

I see that some are using the driveshafts from Tom Woods and some are using GBR driveshafts. Is one better than the other ?

Hopefully I will be able to get a smooth drive once again. More than the vibrations, what is bothering me is that one of the driveshafts might fail and leave me stranded in the boonies. I would rather spend the money to fix it than put my family in such a situation. Just my perspective.

Regards,
Jay R.

PS: Mike B., What does the LoL in your signature mean ? Is it "Laughing out Loud" ? Just curious :-)

By RVR OVR (Tom) on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 12:18 am: Edit

Jay,

I didn't really go with a GBR vs. Tom Woods in my situation. I bought the Woods because someone I knew had used them a lot and the prices were almost the same. So, I went on recommendation.

My only comment that might put Woods over GBR is that you may have to wait a long time for your GBR shaft. I know of one person who waited a while (over a month) for one. Woods usually makes and ships within 24 hours. If you go the GBR route, can and explain your situation and find out if you can get one in time if that is indeed your problem. I have heard many, many stories about Bill getting folks parts VERY fast when they need them (definately offsets the one not so fast). But just make sure in advance due to your particular situation.

Tom

p.s. Yes, Mike, are you really always laughing????

By rom on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 12:22 am: Edit

Jay,
I have about 4" lift with my OME plus spacer. I did have a vibration at first and did not know where it came from the front shaft or the back. What I did was to take each shaft out one at a time and drive with it (only one shaft) diff engaged for a while to really feel what is causing the vibration in your driveline. I did both front and back and sure enough, the front shaft need extending. The reaar shaft with rotoflex was okay and did not cause any vibration.
Just a thought.
Rom

By Ali on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 09:01 am: Edit

GBR gets their drive shaft from Six states distributor. Give them a call for a quicker turnaround time in case GBR is backlogged. There's a SSD across the street from GBR and one in Ogden, UT. I stopped by the Ogden store and the guy was extremely helpful in understanding drive shaft issues. I don't know about the price difference though. I'll be installing the RTE 2" FIRM springs this weekend on my Rangie. I do have the winch and bumper combo so I'm praying there won't be any vib issues.

By Mike B. on Thursday, June 07, 2001 - 10:11 pm: Edit

Man I thought LoL means Lots of Luck. I'm from the south (Florida) and we try to courteous and helpful whenever possible. You know southern hospitality and all....

LoL, er... Cheers!
Mike B.

By Milan on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 12:10 am: Edit

Or it could mean Lord - Oh - Lord! Hehehe. LOL.

By John on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 08:49 am: Edit

Lots of Luck....LoL

By Leslie on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 09:49 am: Edit

Okay, I've got a question....

Isn't the castor and camber fixed on a Disco? The only thing adjustable is the toe-in/toe-out? Which would mean that you're paying the alignment shop to do, not a lot?? What is there that an alignment shop can do that you can't?

-L

By Greg Davis on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 11:32 am: Edit

Yes, the castor is fixed as far as an alignment goes. The only thing adjsutable is the toe in, which should be set at 1/8". Easily done by adjusting your tie rod.