By Lynden on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 01:28 pm: Edit

Just me again. What exactly goes wrong w/ the valves. The '96 I'm looking at hasn't had a valve job. If I buy the rig I will likely spring for a warranty. But, how can you minimize the risk of valve problems? Any oil additives that people have had luck with or are they all prone to valve problems. The '96 has 49K miles, should they have already gone or could they go in the future. Any help would be appreciated. I really want to buy it but don't need a headache. That's why I have kids right?
Thanks,
Lynden

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 01:32 pm: Edit

seems needing a valve job is hit or miss - short of opening up engine of your subject vehicle, you really can't tell. If you're purchasing extended warranty, then you'll be covered (of course, you'll still have to deal with the headache of taking it in for the valve job in the event you eventually need it). Oh well.

By Gil Stevens (Gil) on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 01:36 pm: Edit

it may or may not be an issue, some trucks develop the problem, some dont. I saw post on here not long ago about some additive somebody used and they said it worked, I have no experience with it, so I dont know. Id go with the warranty regardless...

By Gil Stevens (Gil) on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 01:37 pm: Edit

sorry, i didnt answer your question regarding "what happens with the valves?" They build up carbon and eventually they will begin stick.

By Jon Williams (Jonw) on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 01:42 pm: Edit

I never have been clear on what the problem is with the valves people experience with these trucks. Is it basically excess carbon build-up that causes them to stick? My solution to that would be to "blow the carbon out" from time-to-time, like you used to need to do on older cars. Synthetic oils would help clean them in the meantime... so what's the problem people have? Thanks to anybody who could shed some light on this for me.

By Jon Williams (Jonw) on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 01:46 pm: Edit

...and my question was answered as I was posting Well in that case, my valves should be spotless for the rest of their lives, since carbon doesn't get much chance to build-up on them, if you know what I mean

By lynden on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 01:52 pm: Edit

Okay, that all makes sense. And it seems synthetic oil would help. Now I'll open a total can of worms. Should you introduce synthetic oil to an older motor. Two sides of fence on this one. One camp says no, it softens the gaskets and starts leaks. Other camp says do it any time? Any thoughts. I'm a litle more comfortable that the valves get sticky not break or cause thrown rods or something. Seems like there are ways to keep them clean or clean them up to help prevent the problem.

THANKS!

By Jon Williams (Jonw) on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 02:00 pm: Edit

I'm camping with the group that says change to synthetic at any time. In my engine's case, it stopped the leaks, cleaned it out, etc. I would only hope it does the same in your case.

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, June 08, 2001 - 02:06 pm: Edit

break engine in on organic oil (~10kmiles), then jump to synthetic. after break-in, change to synthetic anytime...

By Ray Gunn on Saturday, June 09, 2001 - 02:08 am: Edit

If you drive the vehicle the way it was intended, and on a regular basis, you should not have valve problems. A fuel treatment is good for carbon removal, as is a strong right foot. Oil should not make a difference regarding this supposed problem as you should not have oil on your valves (if your seals are good) If bad seals, that can be remedied w/o removing the heads. I dont think that fuel octane level should matter either: LR engines are not high compresion nor high performance, the two requirements for higher RON ratings. FWIW, I have used regular fuel (89 octane) in my Disco for years with no problems.

By Disco Infurno on Saturday, June 09, 2001 - 10:00 pm: Edit

I use some STP engine cleaner shit from Pep Boys about (ehhhh...) every other tank and the valve problem that I was "diagnosed" with hasn't reared its ugly head since then. I also use 92-93 octane. '96 DI

By Mateo808 on Wednesday, June 13, 2001 - 10:18 pm: Edit

LR Mec's I've talked to about the Valve prob. say that it happens more in the RR than the disco, and mostly on the east coast. They have also found a link between carbon build up on the valves and people not changing their oil (thus the RR with the rich old betty who doesn't have a clue about when to change the oil). Anyway for what it's worth.

By ben gott on Thursday, June 14, 2001 - 09:20 am: Edit

I think i'll agree with the messages above.. I just talked to my import place yesterday and he said it's not a real issue (if driven as it shoud))and additives help..

I ran 89oct. when i bought mine and about 3 months later the check engine came on and the LR guy told me i had some carbon build on my 02 sens. and to switch to 93oct. and don't be afraid to gun her every once and a while.. made enough sense to me.. i haven't had the light come on again.. and come on, 3-4 exrta bucks at the pump? not too bad..

ben

By Leslie on Thursday, June 14, 2001 - 10:51 am: Edit

Regular here is 87 octane, mid-grade is 89, premeium is 93. The manual specifies "90 octane premium or greater".... If you read the pump label, it says "minimum", and in most cases it could be as much as half-way to the next ocatane level (and, in some cases that I have known of, as high as the next level.... ie, all three 'flavors' were the same 93 ocatane at a particular station for awhile) [being in the gov't regulatory program has advantages].

SO..... I consistently run Exxon 89 in mine... I'm not a hot-rod, but I don't poke along, either (I realize that I'm not driving the TransAm I used to have, but I'm not in my 88" Series, either). I've got a '99 SD, and have driven it almost 60k already - have had no problems, just do routine maintenance myself - never even had it back to the dealer. When I filled up today and did my mileage calculations, this last tank I pulled 17.86 mpg. Not too shabby, I'll take it and keep running.

-L