Subtopic	Posts		Updated
	Audible warning / drives fine but can't move transfer lever	1		04/30 11:17pm

By Clint on Sunday, March 04, 2001 - 01:34 pm: Edit

I've asked around quite a bit, so don't get annoyed at the guy that still has a broken diff lock. I NEED it, but I'm not going to pay $1000 to the dealer...

I have a 97 disco and I'm 99% sure that something internal is wrong with the diff lock.
The question is, what is the best/easiest way to pull the locking mechanism? Do I have to drop the whole case, or can I just pull the lever out from underneath, or do I have to rip apart my console inside?
Thanks,
Clint

By Larry Harrell on Wednesday, March 07, 2001 - 09:32 pm: Edit

Hey Clint,
What is your Diff Lock doing? Can you transfer from low range to high range OK? And finally how long have you owned the vehicle and has it been transfered into Diff Lock Much? If you can answer these questions then I can probably tell you what is wrong!!
To get to the Locking Mechinisim it is alot easier if you pull the console off. It looks alot harder than it really is. It is not hard to get to it. Answers those questions and I will get back with you!!!!

Larry
95 Disco

By Clint on Thursday, March 08, 2001 - 05:30 pm: Edit

Thanks Larry,
the handle moves freely, but somewhat spongy feeling. It does not "snap or crunch" over like it should.
the indicator does not illuminate and driving tests have confirmed that the diff lock is not engaged.
The high/low works fine. the truck has been like this since I bought it last april. At the time, I only checked the high low. the lever moved to the diff lock position, so I figured it was OK.
Clint

By Larry Harrell on Thursday, March 08, 2001 - 11:27 pm: Edit

OK Clint,
Here is what you want to do. First you need to take off the console and get all the way down to the transfer case. You will see the shifter putruding into a sqaure shaft. This is were most of the problems come into play. If the shifter hasn't been moved into Diff Lock much during its life then it will curod up and become frozen. Go to the auto store buy some PB Blaster and spray that shaft and all the components around it. You want to use up a whole can it can get messy, but it works. As you are doing this try moving it back and forth until you get it to break free. If this does not work. You can call the expert (Eric at Atlantic British Land Rover and he will be able to answer your question I garunteee it!!!1-800-533-2210. Hey Good luck and let me know if you need anything else!!!

Larry

By Clint on Thursday, March 08, 2001 - 11:51 pm: Edit

Larry,
the linkage seems to be free. I've even moved the lever on the tcase manually and it rotates about 90 degrees. Still nothing. I think the problem is internal to the case. I may need to partially disassemble it, but I don't want to start without a plan.
Thanks,
Clint

By Bill B on Friday, March 09, 2001 - 08:16 am: Edit

If the lever moves very freely with no resistance at all, then it is likely that the selector rod is broken where it necks down to smaller diameter INSIDE the transfer case. I saw this happen on a friends D90. To get to this, the Tcase must be removed from the truck and disassembled.

By Bill B on Friday, March 09, 2001 - 08:18 am: Edit

Also - brand new transfer case from Aschroft is $800.00 + shipping from the UK. Cheaper than the dealers $1000 you mentioned for a rebuild.

By Clint on Friday, March 09, 2001 - 11:26 pm: Edit

Has anybody removed the 3 bolts and the locking mechanism? I think they call it the lock indicator switch. I'm not afraid to remove it, but I would hate for something to come apart in such an inacessable place. I should probably just do it. It probably comes out in one nice assembly. Hell, it seems like the whole case is modular.
Any experience would be greatly appreciated!
Clint

PS does anybody have a spare case laying around that they don't mind taking apart to see what's in there? Do the workshop and/or haynes manuals show any internal details?

By Steve (Oz93discov8) on Saturday, March 10, 2001 - 06:44 am: Edit

I've got the same symptons. The linkages are working (after the strip down and clean, re-lube from the console and from underneath). The lever into the case seems to be moving about 90 degrees but the light doesn't always come on and the diff isn't locked. Usually I can get it to lock by stopping and selecting forward then reverse in the Auto box (several times) with lots of backlash clunking - it eventually locks. Other times I just push the lever over and drive until it comes on - this may take up to a kilometre or more before it locks - too bad if I need to lock in a hurry!

I heard that there is a detent spring and a ball bearing held in at the top of the T-case by an Allen Screw. This is supposed to hold the locking mechanism in place (either locked or unlocked). Apparently the spring etc can get gummed up and stop moving. Maybe this is what gives our levers the spongy feeling. I've tried to get at the allen screw to remove and clean the spring etc but I haven't been able to do it with the T-case in place - so I'm just living with it for now - this is pissing me off big time - but the fix probably means dropping the box. Enjoy!!

By Clint on Saturday, March 10, 2001 - 04:21 pm: Edit

Here is a FAQ from ashcroft

Q. The difflock on my LT230 does not engage even though the selector rod moves to the right position. Why?

A. Sometimes the difflock indicator switch sticks and this prevents the difflock selector mechanism moving across. Back off the switch one turn and try difflock again.

Is this the allen screw?

By Nathan Crabtree (Nathan) on Saturday, March 10, 2001 - 05:36 pm: Edit

Clint
Do you want a new T-case or a used one. E-mail me and lets talk. I have a friend that has a parts house in the UK. He might be able to get one at a good price.
Thanks
Nathan

By Clint on Saturday, March 10, 2001 - 06:47 pm: Edit

Thanks Nathan,
but I don't think I need a whole new case.
If I need anything it will be the locking switch. It may just need an adjustment.
Does you friend in the UK know about removing or adjusting the lock mechanism?
Thanks,
Clint

By Steve (Oz93discov8) on Sunday, March 11, 2001 - 08:14 am: Edit

Clint

I'm looking at the Disco workshop manual and the switch you mentioned in the FAQ from Ashcroft is just in front of the Diff Lock detent ball & spring I mentioned yesterday. It looks easier to get to than the allen screw which holds the detent spring etc in place so this may be worth a try (backing it off one turn that is).

These bits are on the top of the T-case towards the front of the unit on the left hand side (in the front output housing). Let me know if you want a scanned image emailed to you.

Some time ago there was some posts here regarding all this (in response to the trouble I was having). The lady that posted a reply ended up getting a mechanic to adjust the "detent spring" (if my memory serves me correctly) and apparently hers was fixed - it didn't sound like an expensive exercise, but I've never been able to get at he damn thing myself!!

By Clint on Sunday, March 11, 2001 - 09:40 am: Edit

Steve,
PLEASE send me the diagram.
It would help greatly.
Thanks,
Clint
[email protected]

By Clint on Sunday, March 11, 2001 - 10:35 pm: Edit

Got IT!!!!!
I finally fixed the diff lock!

I had to jam my left arm between the front driveshaft and the transmission up to the elbow holding a mirror and a flashlight to see what was going on.

I'll give away the ending and tell you that it was the indicating switch screwed in too far.
This prevented the locking ring from fully engaging.

The switch has two wires with black plastic connectors leading into it. It screws into the top of the case about 3" behind the locking shaft, near the inside edge. There is a 17mm locking nut just under the 5/8" (or 16mm) flats of the switch that must be loosened first.

I loosened the switch about one full turn.
When I flipped the locking lever I heard the normal "clunk" and then something that I've never heard before. It was the "chink" of the locking ring driving home.

I now have an indicator light and driving tests have confirmed that I have LOCK.
I can't wait to go out and USE that diff lock.

Thanks to all that helped!
Clint

By Steve (Oz93discov8) on Tuesday, March 13, 2001 - 05:13 am: Edit

Well done Clint.

I have been away and only just got your reply, but it seems that you don't need the excerpt from the manual anymore. Let me know and I'll scan it at work and forward it on.

I know what I'll be doing this weekend.

I assume that you got at it from underneath. Please let me know if I need to remove the console (again!).

Mine goes in and out of Hi/Lo range no problems, especially since I serviced the linkages but the Diff Lock is a non-event!

By Clint on Tuesday, March 13, 2001 - 07:58 am: Edit

Steve,
I would still like the page from the manual for future reference.

It seems to me that the locking ring is spring loaded like a manual front hub. That way you can flip the lever to engage, but the ring won't engage until the teeth line up. (or the switch gets out of the way)

Everything is accessed from underneath and you don't have to remove anything. Just bring the two wrenches a flashlight and a small mirror. Jam your arm up there and you'll see what to do.

By sherpa63 on Sunday, March 25, 2001 - 11:00 am: Edit

I HAVE BOUGHT A NEW DISCO 2 TD5
BUT THIS HAVEN'T ANY CENTRAL DIFF.LOCK LEVERAGE OR SWITCH .
IS POSSIBLE AD IT ?
HOW ?

ITALIAN OWNERS SHERPA 63

By Clint on Sunday, March 25, 2001 - 01:45 pm: Edit

Sherpa,
everything is there except the handle. I have been thinking about making up a batch of diff lock kits. We just did the prototype on my friend's truck. You have to get out and reach under the passenger door and pull a handle to lock it. No big deal. Let me know if you are interested. The kits should be very inexpensive.
Clint

By sherpa63 on Sunday, March 25, 2001 - 09:19 pm: Edit

Of course , Clint.
I'm interested , and i have reading your article
in the section 'Series 2 transfert Case' , but
i'haven't found any wrench under the TCASE.
If u have a pic or explain me better i retry to
locate this .My disco 2 is a Left drive version
product in gen. 2001.
Maybe if u have a pics were indicate this wrench
is very apreciate .
Sombody told me that in the first version of disco2 was supplyed with a electric switch for activate the central diff (like range) but becuse conflict with ETC was disappear in the
recent version .(sory for broken english)

sherpa63

By Clint on Monday, March 26, 2001 - 02:34 am: Edit

This site has some good pictures

http://www.rpi.net.au/~rob/disco/xfer-case/
I got this one from there.

This shows the top of the transfer case.
You can get to it from underneath, but it is not easy to see.

The shaft you need to turn is in the center of the three bolts you see there.
I have enlarged a copy of the shaft for easy identification.

By mrbieler on Monday, March 26, 2001 - 04:53 am: Edit

Sounds like we're in the same boat with out dif-lock. We have a 1997 SD. When we bought it, I am close to 100% sure that it never saw dirt. I think it's safe to say that the dif-lock wasn't used by the PO. The first weekend we had it, we used the dif-lock while playing at Hungry Valley, but the selector seemed hesitant. The selector would move over, but the indicator light and the dif-lock don't actually engage immediately. Now, two weeks later, I can't get it to engage at all. Hi & Lo work fine, but no dif-lock.

I guess it's time to crawl underneath and try your repair suggestion. Did the pictures/diagram of the part in question ever materialize? A hint at what I'm looking for would help things out. Fumbling around blind for two black wires and a switch should be interesting.

Jeff

By Clint on Monday, March 26, 2001 - 06:38 am: Edit

The above picture actually shows the wires leading into the switch. Its in the lower right of the picture.

When underneath the truck, feel around about three inches to the rear of the selector shaft. You can barely see the switch hanging over the left side of the transfer case.

Just like I said, it's not convenient to get to, but just get dirty and jam your whole arm up there. It helps if you are left handed. I'm not, but a lefty friend of mine can throw a wrench up there quicker than I can.

The newly marked up image shows everything clearly.

By mrbieler on Monday, March 26, 2001 - 07:40 am: Edit

Thanks for the pic. I was staring at your original post and, based on the questions before it, assumed (knowing what that can mean) that it was in reference too the DII question.

I'm right handed, but my wife isn't. Maybe I will let her tackle this one...

Thanks!

Jeff

By sherpa63 on Monday, March 26, 2001 - 10:49 am: Edit

Ok clint
i have found the wrench on my disco
(is same yours .I have pic of this but i
haven't idea how to add it in a message.
But don't care .
Now i have see that is not properly in a
easy positon to rotate , in particular
when the engine is on .
I want to try to find a electric actuator
to rotate it.
(i can't add pic in the message were i wrong ?)