Body lift...

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Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By nadim on Sunday, June 17, 2001 - 08:38 pm: Edit

I was wondering if a 1" or even 2" body lift needed more work than just the 10 mounting points...it seems very popular in Australia...especially with the competitors...

Moreover, accompanies with my 3" lift, I can fit huge tires...

Any thoughts?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Chris Browne on Sunday, June 17, 2001 - 09:07 pm: Edit

add in remounting radiators, lengthening wiring, lengthening shifters, filling in gaps around bumpers, lengthening brake/abs sensors/steering you name it.
Thats probably for starters...Anyone?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Joe Casey on Sunday, June 17, 2001 - 10:54 pm: Edit

don't forget the steering shaft(column), that bitch don't like the height either. lotta work when you can go another inch or two more easy with the suspension.

JC

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By nadim on Sunday, June 17, 2001 - 11:05 pm: Edit

already have 3" in the suspension:)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By John Tdi Aust on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 03:11 am: Edit

These guys did it ... they'd probably give you info if you emailed them.

http://www.trailcraft.net.au/wild.htm

John

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By nadim on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 11:43 am: Edit

Thanks John

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By ed on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 10:00 pm: Edit

Good topic Nadim seems to be popular in Oz . After checking out the above mentioned website I am very interested in learning more about body lifts . Does anyone (with actual experience ) know how a 2"lift would affect linkages steering shifting etc has anyone done this to NAS Discos or Rangies ?
Ed

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By RVR OVR (Tom) on Monday, June 18, 2001 - 11:40 pm: Edit

I don't know much about them, but somebody who has done them before took a peek under my truck and thought the rover would be good for one. Basically, if you look at the undercarriage, if you did a body lift you could theoretically move all the "stuff" even more up into the frame, and then put straight skid plates across the frame rails. Would be a lot of work, but imagine being able to come down on just about anything with no worries. Kind of like off-roading in a matchbox car! Maybe I'll think about doing it in 10 years or something...

Tom

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 12:03 am: Edit

I sent them an email and they said that for a 2 inch lift you would need to get a tranfer case shifter extension ( which they have ), longer brake lines, and make a new top radiator mount.. I also asked them to send me some pictures of various things.. I also asked about the auto trans shifter and am waiting for reply.. From my understanding it should be pretty straight forward.. They said for the 4 inch lift you would have to do a lot of work so it isn't recomended.. Send them an email with your questions.. It looks pretty inexpensive and this with 3 or 4 inch suspen. lift would be pretty nice.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 12:14 am: Edit

My only question (never having done this or seen it done) is how the hell do you install these things.. Jack up the body of the truck and do the mounting points? I'm kinda clueless about that part..

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By RVR OVR (Tom) on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 12:34 am: Edit

I had asked that question before, and that is basically what you do. It is time consuming and you have to jack up a part of the body near the mount and insert a spacer or whatever. There is probably a science to it as far as which ones to do first, not to do them all on one side first, etc. You will be plowing new territory for us if you do it.

Personally, I would love to see more of this stuff done on Rovers, and I think it is inevitable, as there are more available out there at lower prices that makes having them as a trail-rig not so cost-prohibitive. There was a time when John's RT 3" lift was an "oh my gosh, a 3 inch lift on a Rover!!"

Tom

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Rvrdude on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 10:28 am: Edit

Looking at the products on that link....look closly at the shawdowed products in the backgroung...look closly at the rear links...RTE copied repro's I would say complete with spacers....

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By nadim on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 10:43 am: Edit

My friend back home body lifted his J**p 3" and did a spring over, and now sports 36"?...i think the combination of the two, in my case a 3" suspension and a 1.5-2" body, will allow us to have 33" or 34", even 35" with some butchering...

However...there will be more and more disadvantages, which i am not sure i am willing to take...(CG too high, 35" will definitely break stuff...mum can't jump in the rig...:))

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 11:27 am: Edit

If you got the 2 inch body lift and a two or three inch Rovertym suspen. lift and put on 32 (265/75r16) tires that wouldn't be too bad would it? Would you even have to do that much cutting to get the tires to fit with that amount of lift?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By John on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 11:32 am: Edit

I don't have any experience with body lifts on LRs but I have done one on my CJ7. I actually did it twice on my CJ.

I purchased the bushings from M.O.R.E. The bushings are a combo body/lift bushings. I bought the 1" (no major mods here). If I had gone with the 2" or more I would have had to modify the clutch linkage, steering column, cut the shifter plate (make it larger), brake lines, fan shroud, gas filler neck, etc.

Basically the biggest problem was getting the old bolts and bushings out. Once you get the old ones out all you do is start from the back of the truck and work yourself forward.

Use a 2x4 to support the body while you put in the new mounts. I used my hi-lift to lift the tub a few inches.

One word of advice, the rubber mounts will make the ride feel softer than the poly ones. Trust me, there is a BIG difference in ride. I tried the poly bushings before replacing them for rubber. Getting a smooth ride from a CJ is necessary if you want to keep your kidneys..

One good thing about a body lift is that it's easier to get the mud off from the frame ...

sorry for the rambling...

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 12:11 pm: Edit

Well, I think that the gas filler tube has a section that is rubber, auto tran is cables so that shouldn't change, the steering I'm not sure about.... I would have to gut the inside of the truck to get at the bolts though wouldn't I? Not sure if I like the thought of having to do that.. Not sure about the seat belts either.. Do the seat belts mount to the frame under the truck or to the body? Anybody know?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By John on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 12:16 pm: Edit

They mount to the frame....they would need longer frame brackets..

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ali on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 12:23 pm: Edit

I thought the steering U-joint area is on a spline so possibly there is a little room for stretching?

On my aged '91RR, the lower rubber body mounts are squashed, whereas the upper ones are in pristine shape. Heck if I just rotate the bushings then I'll probably get 1/2" of lift back! I'm seriously thinking of doing this in the near future. If nothing else, my body won't roll as much on corners.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 12:33 pm: Edit

I forgot to ask them about the seat belts... Guess I'll do that when I get home from work tonight... I'll have to pop my head under the hood and look at the steering.. I seem to remember a joint in the steering linkage that might allow for the 2 inch of lift but, I could be thinking of some thing else....

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By John on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 12:34 pm: Edit

A 2" body puts you at the very end of splines on the steering shaft....the very end...

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By John on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 12:50 pm: Edit

In my case (CJ) the steering column runs thru a rather large hole in the dash, therefore there was no need to modify the column or the dash. On my RR I guess I would have to extend the column unless it has a linkage that allows for some extension.

The fuel filler neck on the CJ is also rubber but you cannot stretch it too much since it is pre-molded.

The biggest concern is what are you going to move in the engine compartment due to the body lift?

On the CJ the rad is bolted into the front grill. Obviously the rad and fan shroud shifted up an inch and the fan stayed the same. Fortunately there was enough room in the shroud to allow this mod. I guess I could've installed larger motor mounts but that would bring the tranny up and cause some driveline vibe ... etc...etc..

How about the shifter? Will you be able to put the shifter in Park or on 1?

The seatbelts on the Rangies are attached to the body and not the frame.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 07:11 am: Edit

Mike peters has a body lift with no big mods. I think he moved the radiator but that was about it... His is 2" if I rmember right..


Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By James S. (Shack) on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 07:18 am: Edit

I am liking the idea of a body/suspension lift combination. Since the body weighs much less then the chassis, with a 2' body and a 2-3" suspension you keep your center of gravity lower than with a suspension lift only. I would like to see more pictures like the ones on the trailcraft site. In addition, I know there are some body lifted Rangies out there, we need some more first hand info.

James

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ali on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 09:15 am: Edit

Doesn't the Tranny shifter use cable to the shifting mechanism on the tranny? Definitely the XFER case will have to be modified.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 09:22 am: Edit

Mikes is down a bit but still works fine....


Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By nadim on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 09:28 am: Edit

i am thinking with a 1" body lift only...
what do we have to do...
with a 2" one..what do we need more?
a 3"...
so that we can know what kind of massacre we are entering...
what about the bumpers?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 09:43 am: Edit

They make lifts parts for the rear bumper and an extension for the transfer case. The front bumper they said you would need to drill new holes in order for it to move up two inches.. I'm wondering if since I will be getting a new bumper soon anyway if I should just ask around and see if I can get a custom bumper that would have the mounts set up differently to match the body lift.. I would imagine that they would cut their two inch spacers down to one inch for you.. They seem to be big on custom stuff.. Call or email them and ask them.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By DREW on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 12:25 pm: Edit

I HAVE INSTALLED A 2 INCH BODY LIFT ON MY 93 RR. IT WASN'T TO BAD TO INSTALL. I USED A SOILD BLOCK OF ROUND ALUMINUM WITH A HOLE DRILLED IN IT. I USED A 5 1/2 INCH BOLT GRADE 8 BOLT. I JACKED THE BODY UP ONE SIDE AT A TIME AND INSTALLED THESE SPACERS. AS FOR THESE STEERING SHAFT I USED A LONGER RUBBER SPACER FROM AN 88 RR STEERING SHAFT(SLIGHT MOD. TO GET TO WORK). I WAS ABLE TO GET THE FILLER NECK TO WORK BY UNDOING THE RUBBER LINE BETWEEN THE NECK AND TANK AND TWIST IT AROUND. AS FOR THE MOUNTS FOR THE REAR OF THE FRAME I THINK FOR SEAT BEATS I JUST UNDID AS FOR I DON'T HAVE ANY ONE RIDING BACK THERE. IT COULD BE MADE TO WORK. FOR THE RAD DRILLED A NEW HOLE FOR THE DS AND MAKE A CUSTOM BRACKET FOR THE PS. I THINK THAT ABOUT COVER THE CHANGES I MADE. IN MY RESEACH I WOULDN'T RECOMMEND THIS FOR ROVERS WITH SRS MAY EFFECT THE WAY AIRBAGS ARE SET OFF.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 01:41 pm: Edit

I don't know if I'm too worried about the Airbags.. I plan on getting a real bumper one of these days and that from what I here and read will most likely affect the airbags as well. How would the lift affect the air bags? I'm not sure I understand that.. The front seat belts attach to the seats.. I can't see anything that hook those up to the frame.. However, I didn't look at the back ones.. If they do that can always get worked on later as I never really have anyone ride back there any way.. I would like to know more about the airbag part..

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By DREW on Tuesday, June 19, 2001 - 03:24 pm: Edit

THE REASON I SAID THAT IS I HAD FRIEND WHO WAS TRYING TO PUT A BODY LIFT ON A CHEVY TRUCK AND THE BODY LIFT WAS NOT AVAILABLE FOR TRUCKS WITH AIRBAGS BUT THE SAME TRUCK WITHOUT AIRBAGS IT WAS. THE REP. THAT WAS SELLING THE LIFT TOLD US IT EFFECTED THE WAY THEY DEPLOYED. I GUESS IT HAS GOT TO WITH THE STRENGTH OF THE LONGER BOLTS. I AM NOT AN ENGINEER SO I AM NOT SURE IF THIS IS TRUE JUST SHARING WHAT I HAVE SEEN.
ALSO I DID ADD LONGER BRAKE LINES AND EXTENDED THE T. BOX SHIFT. I DID THIS BY ADDING A COUPLING TO THE ORIGINAL SHIFTER AND STUD OUT THE OTHER END. VERRY SIMPLE BOLT ON PROCESS.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 05:48 am: Edit

I think that the Airbag sensor is frame mounted (98 D1) so I would imagine that it would go off normally.. You would just have the possibilty of the body moving a little more forward due to the longer bolts.. I talked to them about this and these are certified with the Australian Highway Commision ( or some thing like that ). So it really should be ok.. They also supply the brackets for the rear seatbelts.. My only concern would be that I don't want to turn my front frame rails into swiss cheese re-mounting the bumper due to the brush bar will be two inches lower which puts the bar almost in the center of my head lights.. I don't think that is legal.. Wonder if Rovertym can alter one of their bumpers (once they are ready) to mount correctly with a two inch body lift..

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Simon on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 05:51 am: Edit

so who is the first to do a 2" or 3" body lift?
I would like to do it so I can go where the swamp buggies go here in Miami... why? cuase I'll be fitting some Super Swamper if I get that thing 3 inches higher...

Simon

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 06:16 am: Edit

Keep in mind that Body lifts came about because they were a cheap lift. You get what you pay for. The frame is no heavier then the body. In fact , the body is heavier so dont go expecting much CG retention.....

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Milan on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 08:33 am: Edit

Kyle, it's not just the frame that matters but everything else that's attached to it that makes the "lower" half of the vehicle heavier. Frames themselves are fairly light on any vehicle in the 1/4-3/4t class. Although, on the Disco I'd believe it if somebody told me the body and interior weighed about half of the total vehicle weight.

I think more than a 2" body lift on a vehicle of Disco's size looks stupid. Additionally, the Disco body mount spacers are pretty high and spindly in stock form. Adding 3" more to them would make them really long putting quite a bit of leverage on the mounts/bolts should you hit something hard. Not to mention the headache with tall body lifts when it comes to relocating/extending things the body is connected to. I'd go for 1"-2" BL myself just to clear bigger tires and to keep it simple.

Simple is good, no?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 09:48 am: Edit

Simple is 4 springs :) I never did like body lifts , they are pretty cheesy. And there really isnt a real good argument for them on a Rover. On something with IFS its a good way to go but the rover is just so easy tolift if thats your thing....

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jon E. Yermo (Jon) on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 10:14 am: Edit

I've never done a body lift on a Land Rover, but did do a 3" body lift on a Mitsubishi. Carbon-fibre bushings and everything was included, but fit and finish was tricky and never looked right. The frame shows all those 3" below the body and the ride is awful at speed. Your COG is too high, and the relatively small surface area chassis-to-body is poor at best, with 16 - 20 of the 1.5" - 2"W bushings touching metal.

Theorhetical departure angle would improve of course, but forget the stock bumpers, etc. Extension brackets for retaining stock parts were of shoddy build, my stock front bumper fell off during a rowdy moment on a graded surface.

Stick with suspension work if possible, I can't disuade from the use of body lifts enough.

P.S. Body lifts may also void your warranty, unlike most suspension mods!!!! A Series guy may not care, but I wouldn't do it to my late-model Disco!

-Jon

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By RVR OVR (Tom) on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 10:15 am: Edit

You make a good point, Jon

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By nadim on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 10:19 am: Edit

I have decided to stay away from body lifts...
Thanks for a great discussion...
Nadim

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ali on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 10:25 am: Edit

I had a Dodge D-50 4x4 (Mitsubishi) with a 3" body lift. The PO installed it before I bought it. The steering shaft was always a little screwy due to the stretching. The splines weren't covered all the way and the stick shift poked out of the floor by 3"! I thought it looked goofy but I was a desperate college kid at the time. Ahh, the good old days.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 10:38 am: Edit

Guess I'll get a suspension lift first and then if I feel that I still need more then I'll go for a body lift..

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jens Störmer on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 12:25 pm: Edit

http://www.discoweb.org/jens

30mm are no big deal and help to clear the tires. Here in germany, we usually don't do "cheesy" stuff regarding automotive engineering...

greets
Jens

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jens Störmer on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 12:29 pm: Edit

http://www.extrem-motorsport.de/extrem-spezial/sonderanfertigungen.html

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 02:16 pm: Edit

Jens I dont wanna hear that Germany crap. Everyone does some cheesy stuff , all countries. A body lift is dripping with it. Its not a clean install in any way and really doesnt give good benefits that would merit its instalation. Give me any good reason to install one that a suspention upgrade cant cancel out... (Not talking IFS trucks or anything aside from the Disco)

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jens Stoermer on Wednesday, June 20, 2001 - 08:52 pm: Edit

Yes, Kyle,
you are right.
You are God posting under a nickname, are you?
Don't expect me to answer anything more, it's wasted time :-)

regards
Jens Stoermer

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Drew on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 02:35 am: Edit

Kyle, i by be opening a can of worms but, why do you feel a body lift is cheesy. i have put about 10,000 miles on my rr since i installed the body lift with alot of those miles being off road. i have not had any problems with this type of lift.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 02:37 am: Edit

Hmmm , you are right , I can see the benefits of the body lift clearly now... very clearly..
Your German Engineering cant take any heat? You couldnt name one thing could you ? :)

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jens Stoermer on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 02:53 am: Edit

;-)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 03:12 am: Edit

Give me any
good reason to install one that a suspention upgrade cant cancel out... (Not
talking IFS trucks or anything aside from the Disco)


Because with a suspension lift after 2in it starts getting expensive and after about 5-6 you are looking at hacking off frame mounts. So if for some reason you want to do 4in cheap or 5+ without major butchering you can do a body lift (not that I have a need in either situation I just thought I would mention it).

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 04:00 am: Edit

What?? Hacking off frame mounts? I have 4" on mine and there has been no hacking anywhere. It didnt cost any more then a 2" lift...I think BJ has 5-6 and he has hacked but not on the frame,he is just hacking to get those big "cool" ass tires on there..

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 04:53 am: Edit

BJ hacked off his trailing arm mounts which I believe are attached to the frame :), and according to the man himself with the really tall springs on there it handles like crap and is not safe (lots of bump steer) so he runs 3in and a spacer most of the time, to go beyond 5in or so (which is what I said) you will have to relocate the pan hard rod mount (even at 5in you are looking at least at a longer panhard rod if you want your axle to be anywhere near the center of the truck), relocate or replace all the frame mounts for the A frame, trailing links, radius arms. Also you can run 2in lift with no mods other than the springs, pretty much most people who run 3in or more has to do castor corrected arms and/or CV drive shafts which adds to the bill (2in is 200 for springs or 3in is 200 for springs and 250 for arms and 400 for a drive shaft). Now all I am saying is that if you want to run four inches of lift you could do springs and a body lift and get in done for a few hundred. Or if you want a really ridiclous lift 6+ you could run a suspension plus a body lift. To lift a truck that high with suspension alone you are at the point where everything that attaches the axles to the frame has to be substantially modified, not to mention the fact that springs tall enough don't exist so you end up having to run really big spacers or cut the spring mounts off and reweld them lower on the frame. In theory of course. Catch my drift, 2in is easy and cheap, 3-4in is easy and expensive 5-6in is barely do able, beyond that? A body lift will buy you a cheap step up which is why they are popular among cheaps etc.

Ron


Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 05:03 am: Edit

As I said , I have 4 (And some change actually) and it wasnt expensive or a pain in the ass. When its up like that and not weighed down it does drive like shit , no doubt , but anything really high is going to drive like shit. For one , you got it that high to put some "Cool" tires on there so you know they ride like shit. At the end of your post is what I said from the start. A body lift is a cheap work around thats it... That was their intended use...


Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 05:12 am: Edit

Kyle,
So you have a cv driveshaft?

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Milan on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 05:40 am: Edit

I also look at the body lift as a way to fit larger tires without disturbing a good suspension setup. On all vehicles when you get to a certain size tire, you have to start hacking not just the fender lip but also the wheel well. Even if you have the suspension setup with proper bumpstops. So to fit the bigger tires without hacking you have to either change the suspension setup and may get into what Ron mentioned or you can fit taller bumpstops which may disturb your current suspension setup or you can do a body lift. I think if you stick with short 1" - 2" body lift you'll be OK and it will be simple to install and it is simpler than redesign of an already working suspension setup. I personally prefer 1-1.25 or 1.5" BL as I find even 2" too much sometimes but that depends on the truck. On the Disco I'd stick to 1" BL.

Also, as far as tall lifts go (be they suspension or body) there is a point in my mind where I'd rather seriously alter/cut the body than deal with the issues of tall lifts. In my opinion you need to have a good balance of lift, flex, durability and driveability/safety.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 05:48 am: Edit

Yep , I replced a bad front shaft with the CV shaft. I had a rear CV shaft but then borrowed Johns stock rear that he took out of his. The stock one worked better... Go figure...

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By John on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 05:59 am: Edit

Have I billed you yet?? hehehe

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 06:10 am: Edit

Sorry Drew , I missed your post.
Its cheesy cause its just a work around. I have had two trucks with body lifts that I put a shit load of miles on as well. Aside from taking away from the looks it is altering something thats best left alone. All the steering shafts and linkages work just fine from the factory , when you start adding things here and there you start to add leverage to parts that werent designed to take it. You also add leverage to the body bolts and frame pads. Over time this will have an impact on your ride and it was all for nothing. You can do what needs doing with suspension and get it over with and not take the work around. I think maybe they are more popular in other countries cause maybe they dont have the parts availability we do here or maybe the right parts are too expensive there....who knows... I dont think you were shooting for looks or longevity when you built yours thats a whole different ball game there...

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 06:19 am: Edit

Yep , I replced a bad front shaft with the CV shaft.

Then it is no longer cheap. That was kinda my point. for the redneck big tire crowd 2in springs and a 1-2 body lift would do the same thing cheaper, thats all, not really better, and for the I want the biggest baddest crowd it gets you an extra couple inches.

Ron

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 07:03 am: Edit

Yep , it wil get you the inches cheaper , no doubt...

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Mike Peters on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 03:52 pm: Edit

Well, ahem, my cheese is a total of 5".. 3" are suspension, and 2" are under the body..

i just liked the extra heft in the wheel wells without putting all the height under my springs. and i didn't do it as a work-around to a spring lift - i did it in conjunction with a spring lift. or at least, that was the initial idea

now 33's fit well without an insane amount of trimming, and i have the suspension setup i like even though it, alone, didn't have the total height that i wanted to ultimately get..

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 03:56 pm: Edit

LOL , I knew it was only a matter of time... :) where ya been man?


Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jens Stoermer on Thursday, June 21, 2001 - 09:46 pm: Edit

Just for the record:
with 50mm Suspension, Bilstein Shocks AND a 30mm Bodylift, my Disco drives and behaves like a dream. NO driveline vibrations, NO excessive body roll, but very good performance on and off the road. Currently, I have 265/75 R 16 BFG MTs on CW Wheels on it, the bump stops are standard LR and the only "hacking" that was needed is cutting the inner edge of the rear fender. The flex is more than enough, because the early european Discos don't have any stabilizers.
I use it for travelling long distances in remote areas, and at home it's put to work in the forest and it's also used to pull heavy trailers at the Autobahn.
No one in his right mind over here would even think about putting 100mm (4') long springs into a Disco (without realllly big mods). That sounds much like a trailer queen to me. If you like a vehicle that handles like a shopping cart, do it. The same thing applies to body lifts:

30mm are no problem
48mm will work but it's more complicated
3' or more is far beyond logic.

By the way: if I count the cost, my Body Lift was more expensive than the suspension lift.
E.g. the steel braided brake lines (which I got from the manufacturer that supplies the Porsche Race Dept., that much on availability of high spec parts in the "third world" countries outside the US ;-) ) will set you back roughly the same amount as a set of Bilstein Dampers.

Jens

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, June 22, 2001 - 02:40 am: Edit

I was actually on the cell phone with Ho yesterday as I was doing roughly 72 MPH in door to door traffic on our beltway here . Its like a NASCAR race every day for me just getting to work. I have no use at all for something that doesnt drive nice. I drove all teh way acrost this rock and back this year with a bad driveshaft so I know all to well whats nice and what aint. At times I wanted to stop and set it on fire right there on the side of the road. Mike Peters was behind me , he was probably thinking the same...:)

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jens Stoermer on Friday, June 22, 2001 - 04:05 am: Edit

Okay Kyle,

let's agree that, no matter what modification is done, it has to be done using first class material, lots of brain and craftmanship. All over the world.
And you will probably agree that drivers of white Discoveries have no brain at all...

Jens

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, June 22, 2001 - 04:22 am: Edit

I agree there on all points,,,,:)

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By kevin pen on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 01:30 am: Edit

hi guys i have just done a 2inch lift on my disco
it is all pretty easy i left the radiator where it was and extented the top mount pins you need supports under drivers seat and passengers also to repoisition power steering res i did not have any problem with steering shaft loosened bolts while lifting and tighened after,rear bumber need extension out and up, i also did new brake lines because i had put spacers in the springs a few weeks ago which has me 4 inches up next is flared gaurds and some big tires on offset rims but it is driving fine now

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Mega on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 03:04 am: Edit

Guys, I own the white Landrover Discovery on www.trailcraft.net.au or www.rancho.com.au/truckof.htm It has a 2" body lift with no problems what so ever. Trailcraft has a comprehensive kit including all that is needed. If you have any questions email me at mega@trailcraft.net.au

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 03:25 am: Edit

Kevin, why did you need to add extra supports under the seats? Just wondering. I'm thinking about getting the 2 inch lift from Trailcraft (post above).

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By kevin pen on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 12:38 pm: Edit

Eric in standard form the is a suport under drivers seat onto the top of chassis rail if you dont put spacers in you can crack the firewall with the flex it happened to a guy i know
eric as well as there spacers make up some little block out of ply wood with hole in the middle so when you do lift just go slowley and work your way up rather than in one lift, and of course use a jack with heaps of travel it will make life easier

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Eric N (Grnrvr) on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 01:30 pm: Edit

Thanks Kevin.


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