By JCabrera on Friday, June 22, 2001 - 07:43 pm: Edit

I have an ARB bumper on my 96-Disco (I had it installed). The ARB moved forward... as in tilted and is rubbing against the fenders. How can I go and re-adjust it?. Any help is greatly appreciated.

By Rotater Man on Saturday, June 23, 2001 - 03:33 am: Edit

uh ohhhhh....another ARB rotation issue....
Loosen the 3 frame mounts each side and push/pull to where you want it, and re-tighten 6 bolts.

By stocker on Saturday, June 23, 2001 - 08:11 am: Edit

Then when it rotates again, repeat above procedure.
Like most people here say, IT'S ENDLESS!!!!!!!!

By Jon E. Yermo (Jon) on Saturday, June 23, 2001 - 03:07 pm: Edit

I have a very simple solution to the whole silly rotation discussion which seems to go on endlessly around here.

1) Find a friend or shop with a hand-held grinder and welding set up.

2) Uninstall the ARB bumper per previous postings (i.e. six bolts).

3) With grinder pad / brush clean the trailing edge of the ARB, and the frame where the trailing edge meets the frame. (If the bumper can be lined-up to your satisfaction prior to removal, scribe a mark where the ARB and frame meet to guide your grinding - don't remove too much paint, you're only "cleaning" the surface for welding.

4) Have your buddy / shop reinstall and align the bumper to your satisfaction, set the bolts back in place and tighten it up. I've found that two people, a couple of milkcrates on end and a floor jack don't hurt when attempting this part of the job. Try installing those two big-ass rearmost bolts first, and then use the milkcrates as "wedges" to get the ARB beast level with the reveal created between the top of the bumper and bottom of your fenders (wings).

5) Once you're satisfied that the bumper reveals the same amount of fender on each side (about 1/2") and that it is level from driver's side to passenger's side, get those bolts good and tight.

6) Have aforementioned buddy don the mask and welder's smock and roll under your rig and tack two welds on either side of the frame. This will prevent "crawling" due to vibration and the sheer 125lb. weight (less winch), but won't make much difference in a frontal impact.

7) Make sure you paint the area out, it will corrode quickly and decisively if not properly treated.

If anyone has anything whatever to add to this, I'd like to see it. Just my two cents - wouldn't even buy a stick of gum.

Jon

By RotatorMan on Saturday, June 23, 2001 - 03:44 pm: Edit

.02 back at you....I guess welding parts on is the easy way out for the man...I guess silly rotation discussions is easily disposed of by"weld it up, it will work". Guess we can weld up sliders...shock mounts....hi lift jack mounts that rattle...and so forth. I think the man and others like him are looking for something other than two cent answers and chewing gum. The problem needs to resolved by ARB with my .02..

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Saturday, June 23, 2001 - 03:49 pm: Edit

Well , there is too much leverage on the welds and frame there. If there was more seperation between the welds and the bolts it might work but welding it up there is either just going to break the weld or rip the frame... Have fun

Kyle

By AL on Saturday, June 23, 2001 - 04:08 pm: Edit

So, whats the best bumper ?
Regardless of cost.

By Mike B. on Saturday, June 23, 2001 - 04:21 pm: Edit

I'd suggest drilling out the holes in the bumper a little and putting in bigger bolts. The holes in the bumper are usually drilled out too big so they will fit all Discos without drilling. That is what allows the bumper to rotate. Go with larger bolts to prevent it from moving.

Thanks,
Mike B.

By Jon E. Yermo (Jon) on Sunday, June 24, 2001 - 06:38 am: Edit

I second Mike B's suggestion at making the ARB mounting holes to a tighter tolerance. This would also be a weld-free option for those not willing or wanting to fully commit. I might add that many of the worlds tallest buildings, ships and other technological marvels utilise welded materials for strength. As a guy who used to run desert trucks, the whole "bolt-on" mentality gets tiring. I suppose everyone keeps the old stock bumper in the basement for that day when you go to sell the Disco - just to get it back to stock!

"Ha!" I say to your grade 8 bolt-on non-commital silliness.

Cheers,

-Jon

By Ron on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 03:20 am: Edit

Are the holes in the ARB oval? If so you could weld the washers on the arb in exactly the right location. That would solve the problem. ROvers are built to poor tolerances (take one apart and you will find shims everywhere) so it is as much a LR problem as it is an arb problem.

Ron

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 04:27 am: Edit

Jon you cant get the winch out of allot of these things with the bumper in place. I suppose though if something happens to the winch on the trail you could just burn the truck and walk out...And as far as running desert trucks gos , its a whole different world. You are running them to break , if you dont run right on that ragged edge you will never win a damn thing. You are comparing disposable toys to depended on toys... I dont see how you are comiting to anything there..

Kyle

By Jon E. Yermo (Jon) on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 05:58 am: Edit

I was not aware that you had to remove the bumper to mount a winch. I do not recall this being the case with my XD9000i. Perhaps I've forgotten now. If this is the case, I like the idea of permanently drilling the bumper to a larger (and more accurate) tolerance. As far as welding goes, I've been a fan of the weld vs. throughbolt ever since a Suspensions Unlimited racing bumper (welded to frame, btw) saved my life in a 40mph rear-end accident. By the way, this was in a ***tbox Mitsubishi truck, and oh yeah - my frame did not "tear". I personally removed what was left of that SU bumper, we had to plasma cut the tubing from just above the welds at the frame - not a crack at the welds either. I was swearing that day, believe me - but in the back of my mind I knew I owed my life to those persistent joints!

Look, I'm not arguing the merits of welding versus bolting. All I know is there's some poor kid out there with a $30K truck with dented and scratched fenders cause his bumper won't stay plumb. As is always the case, the more dialog there is here - the better the overall recommendation gets for the original query. I love this site, and thanks for the chance to participate in the debate!

Oh, and allot is not a word, neither is alot.

Cheers,

Jon

By Kevin D on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 11:46 am: Edit

Websters: allot
(1) to distribute by lot or in arbitrary shares; apportion
(2) to give or assign as one's share

Cheers

By the tomster on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 12:20 pm: Edit

hardy har har. all this fun with words made me think he was addressing the group as "websters" for a second instead of referenceing the websters dictionary

By Mike B. on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 03:04 pm: Edit

While we are talking about words, what happened to the spell check? I miss it. And given my poor spelling capabilities, I am sure that some of you are too!

LoL,
Mike B.

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 04:06 pm: Edit

As I said in the general section. Just spit it out , we will translate. No one here should be grading you on spelling. THe site isnt about spelling. Put more thought into what you want to ask. Thats whats important...

By Jon E. Yermo (Jon) on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 06:06 pm: Edit

My third grade teacher Ms. Smith would not agree with you, God rest her evil, demanding soul.

Did our original poster ever sort out the problem he was having? What was it again?!

Cheers,

Jon

By JCabrera on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 07:46 pm: Edit

Thank you all for the helpful comments and suggestion.... 6 bolts removed. ARB re-adjusted. 6 bolts installed (same bolts). Thank you! ...... I was just thinking... instead of using bolts, how about welding the ARB to the vehicle?

PS: Got my great DiscoWeb.org stickers!

By Jon E. Yermo (Jon) on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 08:15 pm: Edit

Don't get me started!!!