By New Owner on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 09:06 am: Edit

I know these things aren't exactly oil tight... if you will, but what are the problems that most people have had. What area of gaskets. I took ours in today to have it looked at, we recently purchased it. The mechanic noticed some oil but couldn't really tell where it was coming from. He didn't know if it was head, crank or elsewhere. What are your guy's experience? I have no oil under the rig at any time, it sits all night and nothing hits the ground. I'm not worried about it but am wondering if it's something I could do myself. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

By Stephen on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 09:33 am: Edit

Sometimes it's easier to locate leaks if you get the engine shampooed.
for what it's worth...my 96' has had leaks at the steering pump, head gasket, rear main and cross seals, crank seal, to name what I can remember off the top of my head.

By Jon Williams (Jonw) on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 09:51 am: Edit

I do that from time-to-time just to make sure I don't have any recurring leaks. Wal-mart sells this stuff called "Tech2000 Engine Degreaser." It sprays on a warm (not hot) engine as a foam and penetrates grease during a 5-min soak. Then use a water hose with heavy stream and spray all the gunk off. Some tougher build-up may take a second soak. Anyway, safe for aluminum and it's only about $0.98/can (last time I bought some) and it works very well. That way I can tell if something starts leaking, or just keep the engine gunk-free. If you decide to go that route, make sure you cover your distributor (cuz it really doesn't like to get wet) and try not to spray a direct stream into the alternator. Believe it or not, my underhood electrical connections survive with no problem after I douse them with water periodically.

By Brett on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 11:27 am: Edit

They all leak oil. I think that Nathan's is the only one that I know of that is oil tight. I had an 88 Range Rover, and it leaked as well as my 95 Disco. Mine goes to the mechanic to be resealed yet again in two weeks. If anyone has tips to stop the recurring sealing, please post.

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 11:43 am: Edit

they don't all leak! Mine has oil & various other mystery fluids all over the engine bay (I don't clean the engine anymore), but there is never a drop on the garage floor. OK, there are a few drops immediately after an oil change, and maybe one or two sporadic drops per month, but I never see these huge puddles that everyone must mop up on an hourly basis (and it's not because I've let all the oil burn away ). I had major steering pump hose hemorrhaging a while back, but new clamps cured that. I'm hesitating on jumping to synthetics, because I'm afraid she'll bleed out if all the deposits are cleaned up! With my Rover, I've become comfortable with the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it (or clean it)" mentality. They guy I bought my house from had a new Dodge Ram pickup - I could have scooped up and sold all the oil that POS left in the garage. Talk about a crap truck...his tailgate was literally held on with chicken wire (and this was a temporary dealer repair!). I'm rambling, too much caffeine again.

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 11:46 am: Edit

On our 1997 with 40k miles, there are some damp spots in the engine bay where dust/dirt will accumulate after I off-road, but it has never marked the driveway except when I am careless during a fluid change.

The only fluid that regularly disappears on our truck is the gas.

By New Owner on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 01:00 pm: Edit

Jeff, That's the same thing I've found, there are moist spots inside but I haven't found a single spot on the driveway. I think I'll let it alone for a while and if I start to get puddles then I'll address it at that point. Is this pretty much how everyone else works?

By James S. (Shack) on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 05:50 pm: Edit

I agree with blue. Mine has 85K and doesn't leak a drop.

James

By Cal on Tuesday, June 26, 2001 - 06:38 pm: Edit

It's a Brittish car.

By garrett on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 02:51 am: Edit

I'm also with Blue. My '96 never pees in the driveway. Never a drop of oil when I leave. Well except for the previous owners which mush have had a Fiero or something like that with the massive stains in the driveway. (but I thought they usually caught fire) I will burn a 1/2 quart sometimes over 4000 miles, but rarely. I mean my engine has various leaks and all.......like the power steering drooling all over, t-case and engine oil all over the pan, but nothing hits the ground. So to me tecnically my truck does not leak. Just sweats a little that is all.

By Brett on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 02:56 am: Edit

Evidently I stand corrected. Mine must be the only one that leaks. Please tell me what I need to do to stop the leaks. My mechanic is going to reseal the valve covers, oil pan gasket, and rear main. Is there anything that will stop the leaks short of that? Any help will be greatly appreciated. I am afraid to park in many people's driveways because of the drips!

By wisker on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 03:30 am: Edit

You're not alone Brett. My 95 leaks almost every fluid you put in it. I'm thinking of taking pictures of my driveway and selling them as modern art.

wisker

By garrett on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 03:35 am: Edit

Brett~

Unless you are losing like a 1/2 quart+ between oil changes I would not worry about it too much. The only reason you are seeing the folks here posting that their trucks are not leaking is because we just want to rub it in a little. We are the chosen few I guess. It is more common that they do leak a bit, rather than saying these things are oil tight. In most cases they are not. I am sure you will hear the saying, "if is ain't leaking oil it must be out" once in while too. But unless you are losing tons of oil I would leave it alone. If it really bothers you that much and your friends start bitching about their driveways then make sure you hang up on them next time they need a lift to work when you get 2 feet of snow.

By Brett on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 03:58 am: Edit

Garrett--Thanks for the message. I really take great care of my vehicle. Most people have no idea that it is a 95. It is in great shape. I am probably losing 1 quart every 5,000 miles. I just park on a carpet mat in the garage and leave it in the street when I go to my parent's new house! What do you think my chances are that it will not leak after everything is resealed? I bought it used at 60,000 miles. Supposedly, it was all resealed by a BMW mechanic when it had the 60,000 mile service done. I am currently sitting with 84,000 on the clock. It still leaks. I guess I should just not worry about it. Again, thanks Garrett!

By Jon Williams (Jonw) on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 04:20 am: Edit

A quart every 5000 miles isn't what I'd call "leaking" or even "using." Most engines today from any manufacturer will lose that much oil over that mileage interval. Heck, my '97 Volvo R burns about a quart over 3000 miles. And I've got a '95 Acura Legend GS that does the same. But it sounds like whoever sealed your engine did a decent job. By the way, my '95 Disco with 87,000 miles burns about a quart every 3000 miles or so, and I don't consider that to be bad. As far as every other fluid, though, it doesn't leak

By garrett on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 04:25 am: Edit

Brett~

There are others on this BBS that I am sure know more about this subject than me. This is my second Discovery. My first one was a '94 with 75K with minimal leaking (aka normal) and now my '96 with 55K with none to speak of. One quart seems to be too much. I think I would take your truck to someone familiar with Rovers. May just be an oil pan gasket. Process of elimination....start with one and stop when the leaking subsides. Should take care of the major leaking, but remember in the future that it will most likely leak again. A few drips a night is fine.

By pjkbrit on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 04:31 am: Edit

"Re-sealed"...hmmmm...sounds like we are talking about the shower tub in my bathroom...just need a Land Rover Caulk Gun.
My 94 is almost leak free...but when I got it, it was peeing oil all over the place....I found most of the leak due to lose oil pan bolts...they work loose over time.

By Brett on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 05:01 am: Edit

The dealership told me that it is leaking from the valve covers, oil pan, and rear main seal. I am going to have it resealed by a shop that specializes in Rover service. How long do you think it will be drip free?

By Ron on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 05:06 am: Edit

rear
main seal

Ouch!
Ignore that one if it is not too bad. The other two are easy fixes.

Ron

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 05:46 am: Edit

Brett - if you get all that work done, that should solve everything (provided oil is indeed what's leaking), but I'd take Ron's advice and leave the rear main seal alone, unless it is catastrophically failing. Rear main is a big hunkin deal, from what I have read in my shop manual. Do the valve covers and especially the oilpan gasket first (unless you're getting a screamin deal on all three repairs).

One more thing - what's everyone's opinion on synthetic oilpan gasket vs. the cork gasket, which seems to get up and walk away on it's own?

By Brett on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 05:50 am: Edit

Bluegill--

I am going to have the valve covers and oil pan done. I was advised by the shop not to do the rear main, as well. It is oil that is leaking. I am wondering if there is a chance that I will catch fire with all of that oil on the engine. Any thoughts? Also--I look forward to hearing the answer on the synthetic vs. cork gasket.

By Ron on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 06:01 am: Edit

You won't catch fire. Worst situation is it will smell like crap if it gets on the manifold. If you are relativly skilled (about the level of a trained monkey) you can do both oil pan and valve cover seals yourself.

Ron

By Brett on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 06:10 am: Edit

Ron--

How long will it take me to do these? Also, are there any special tools that I will need?

Thanks!

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 06:13 am: Edit

I don't know, Ron...I've seen trained monkeys do some pretty impressive things that would put me to shame

By Ron on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 06:25 am: Edit

BG Like I always say the difference between me and a trained monkey is the training.

Ron

No special tools for the oil pan gasket or valve cover gaskets. Maybe a couple-few hours for both? Not sure if you have to take anythin else off to get the valve covers off other than the air intake hose thing. That would be the only complicated thing I could think of, besides getting the torque on the bolts right. Not hard.

By Jon Williams (Jonw) on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 08:39 am: Edit

The intake runner on the left side and unclip the plug wire grommets and that's about all to remove the left side valve cover. The right side is where it gets tricky. There's a lot of heater hose plumbing that needs to be un-done, but I think most of that is loosening band clamps.

By Bill Bettridge (Billb) on Wednesday, June 27, 2001 - 09:30 am: Edit

Also - not to get hopes up - don't count on it to remain leak free once you reseal everything - On my '97 - oil pan twice (dry for the moment) , rear main seal once (leaks like a sieve now, but I don't care), front crankshaft seal three times (currently dry, but seal is very new at this point) - Rovers, gotta love 'em