By Mike J. (Mudd) on Thursday, June 28, 2001 - 07:09 am: Edit

I have a thunking that seems to be either the drive line or something to do with the brakes. Sometimes when I stop or start or go over some slow bumps thunk. I'm a little freaked out, any info or sugestions?

By Tate on Thursday, June 28, 2001 - 12:04 pm: Edit

Driveline slop: transmission wear, slop in u-joints (shouldn't be any), slop in differential, slop in hubs. If there's any slop in the u-joints, replace them, lest your driveshaft fly off at speed (not pretty). Driveline slop is most noticable when changing from forward to reverse while the disco is stationary, or while pressing/letting off the gas while moving. I think most discos have a little driveline slop, mainly in the diffs and hubs.

Since yours is starting, stopping, and bumps, suspect a bushing somewhere, or a loose bolt. Panhard rod is a good place to start. Radius arms, trailing arms, rear-a-arms, shocks. Check for any suspension-related bushing that looks worn, cracked, or loose, or bolts that aren't as tight as they should be. Start there. Maybe someone else has some other ideas.

By Mike J. (Mudd) on Thursday, June 28, 2001 - 01:25 pm: Edit

Thanks Tate,
That was way more help than I ever expected! I'll start looking for wear and slop, but uh, for starters, Whats a panhard rod?

By badams on Thursday, June 28, 2001 - 07:48 pm: Edit

I had a similar problem with my Disco when braking. They replaced a bushing on the drivers side. It helped a little, but did not completely solve the problem. Let me know what you find out Mike!

By Tate on Friday, June 29, 2001 - 05:37 am: Edit

Mike,
It's part of the cycle. You learn something useful from someone, use it, and when someone else asks the same question, pass that knowledge along. I'm just telling you what I've been told before on this list and others for similar conditions. Here are some definitions for the terms I threw at you. They are generic terms in the industry.

Panhard rod: the beefy tube that goes from the frame to the axle, across the width of the vehicle. This locates the axle from side-to-side.

Radius arms: there are two of these on the front axle. They are the longer-looking bars that go from the frame to the axle, from under the door to near the wheel. These locate the axle front/back and keep the body from flying forward/backward when you brake/accelerate.

Trailing arms: these are similar to the front radius arms, but for the rear axle. They are tubular in nature, as they don't have to deal with the compressive force of braking, and are assisted by the rear a-arm. They counteract the twisting motion of the rear axle on acceleration, mainly.

Rear a-arm: self explanatory. It's the triangular structure that locates the rear axle side-to-side, as well as forward/back (I think). This may have been replaced by a rear panhard rod on the D2(as it was on the newer Rangies, from which much of the D2 design comes).

For more info, check out www.autozone.com. They have an automotive terms glossary I've found to be helpful on more than one occasion. That, or a quick internet search on the terms will work magically.

If you're going to be working on the truck yourself, and you've got a D1, do yourself a favor and get a manual for it. The Haynes is good for most things (except that it doesn't cover the 4.0 engine used in 96 and later D1s), and it's pretty inexpensive (you'll have to order it, as it's a UK printed version). It also has a more do-it-yourself approach than the "use Land Rover special tool #q2q324598w435tjlkhaerg" style of the shop manual. Hang out here for a while--it's amazing what some people here know about their Land Rovers (I still consider myself very much a newbie). And, as I've found out in my year among various Roverites, they're usually pretty eager to help. Oh, and take your Rover offroad every once in a while. They're more likely to get pissed off if they don't see dirt or rocks. ;-)

By Ron on Friday, June 29, 2001 - 05:45 am: Edit

DIIs have a Watts linkage in place of the A arm.

Ron

This may have been
replaced by a rear panhard rod on the D2(as it was on the newer Rangies, from
which much of the D2 design comes).

By Tate on Friday, June 29, 2001 - 06:45 am: Edit

http://www.roversd1.com/rear_suspension.htm
for a pics on how this works on a Rover car.

Thanks for the info, Ron.

By Mike J. (Mudd) on Friday, June 29, 2001 - 12:07 pm: Edit

Thanks again Tate,
I'll get the manual, and I assure you my dirty disco gets to play off road every chance I get. I figured last night one of my noises is coming from my front brake. The wheel is coming off tonight! Mike

By Mike J. (Mudd) on Monday, July 02, 2001 - 07:20 am: Edit

It was my front brakes! I replaced pads and rotors and .... Its like a new machine! Thanks again

By Tate on Monday, July 02, 2001 - 09:04 am: Edit

I'm curious--how were the brakes making a "thunking" sound? Perhaps it was loose bolts that were tightened when you replaced the rotors?