By Ron on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 03:53 am: Edit

Ok,

I know it is in theory possible for the brake fluid to be wet/old enough that it boils and therefore you lose brakes. Could this be the answer to why I lost my brakes (look at NO BRAKES)? I went out to the truck this morning and the brakes worked fine. I was going to rebuild the MC but now I dunno if that is the answer. I am thinking about just bleeding it but having my brakes go out again is not something I am looking forward to.

Cheers
Ron

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 03:59 am: Edit

Whats the beast we are talking about?


Kyle

By Ron on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 04:01 am: Edit

The 88 RR (ie no ABS).

Ron

By Ron on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 04:03 am: Edit

Disco content: it has an identical braking system to non-abs euro spec discos from 1989-1993ish.

Ron

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 04:11 am: Edit

So the level is up and you cant find any dampness anywhere? If thats the case I would bleed it real well and pay close attention to whats coming out. If you do a real good bleed and you never see evidence of air I would still suspect that master cylinder. I dont buy the whole break down of fluid deal myself. Unless it had turned to complete shit I would rule that out.. I have seen some pretty nasty brake fluid in cars that were having no problems at all...

Kyle

By Ron on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 04:22 am: Edit

"any dampness anywhere"

You mean as in leaks. No leaks for sure. Oil but no brake fluid. The fluid in there smells (and tastes) like castrol fluid and did not look bad (clear/yellow in color). And the level was spot on the max mark. I know vegtable based fluids are quite hydroscopic (i think thats the word for picks up water from the aptmosphere) and yes they make castrol brake fluid out of a vegtable base. The brakes failed when the truck was hot yet are not fine when it cooled which leads me to think about bad fluid. Is there any way to test the amount of water in brake fluid? I also tried clamping off individual brake lines with no improvement. Not like I have to drive it anywhere soon (I have left it in low range for now). I will play with it more this weekend. If anyone has any bright ideas I would appreciate it.

Ron

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 04:36 am: Edit

The valve can cause quick loss of brakes as well Ron , although I have only seen it very few times its a possiblility I suppose. As you know , everything is possible...

Kyle

By pjkbrit on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 04:46 am: Edit

I would definitely rebuild or replace that master cylinder, only safe way to approach this...yoou prob. have a peeling seal in there. Change out all the fluid and bleed entire system. And never taste brake fluid...pretty poisonous and also somewhat corrosive!!!
Pete

By Ron on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 04:52 am: Edit

"Anything is possible"

Especially on my trucks. You mean the reducing/proportioning valve for the rear? As I look at the diagram that is only on one circuit on my truck (secondary is half the pistons on the front calipers, primary is the other pistons on the front calipers and the rear brakes). So I think I can rule that out.

Ron

By Moe on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 06:40 am: Edit

I agree with Pete--probably a failing seal that ia exacerbated when hot. I had similar symptoms on an old Mazda with a failing master cylinder.

Have you adjusted your e-brake yet

By Ron on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 07:03 am: Edit

yes, it is now a little on all the time That and low range it is a good thing I am only 1/4 mile from the train station (would not drive but for parking issues). Ah what a good weekend this will be. Last time I worked on brakes I got fluid in my hair. Man that was fun. Woo hoo. Definately going to do the M/C rebuild, and the bleed with it and I will put on some PP SS lines while I am at it.

Ron

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 07:13 am: Edit

Yeah Ron , the proportioning valve. I have seen a few fail on other makes but we arent talking many. I would be going for the master cylinder myself.

Kyle

By Ron on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 07:21 am: Edit

master cylinder rebuild tonight.

Anyone want pics for the tech section (along with a 6 page disclaimer hehehe)

Ron

By Rob Davison (Pokerob) on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 07:59 am: Edit

what does the brake fluid taste like? if it tastes burnt it probably is...

;)
rd

By pjkbrit on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 08:03 am: Edit

Brake fluid tastes ...like...arghh....cough....ugh!!!!! ......AAAAAAARFFuc............... ...

Pete

By Ron on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 08:10 am: Edit

Pokerob,
Brake fluid tastes somewhere between carb cleaner and coolent Plus you get a burning sensation whereever you touch it. You can't burn brake fluid but you can boil it. If it takes on water then when the water heats up and boils you get steam and steam compresses and no brakes.

pjkbrit,

The only thing worse than the taste is how it feels when it gets in your eyes.

Ron

By Axel Haakonsen (Axel) on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 08:19 am: Edit

Yes, pics for the tech section is always good!

By Rob Davison (Pokerob) on Friday, July 06, 2001 - 08:49 am: Edit

run if you let it simmer too long in the pan you can burn it. trust me.

i like to thin it out with anitfreeze when making my 3 alarm chilie sauce

-rd

By Woodsman on Saturday, July 07, 2001 - 04:19 am: Edit

Brake fluid makes a good marinade for spotted owl, I hear......

By Rob Davison (Pokerob) on Saturday, July 07, 2001 - 06:50 am: Edit

yes, marinade... i was too ig-nernt to know what you call what i was cooking.

rd