By Bud on Tuesday, July 31, 2001 - 08:53 am: Edit

I'll probably put a listing in the Classifieds, but I have a friend who is in desperate need of finding a new home for a Series Land Rover. I think it is a IIa or III. I will be getting details later. At this point, I know that it will be a cherry vehicle and the guy is going to be taking a loss. Your gain.

Bud

By ESnyder on Tuesday, July 31, 2001 - 11:53 am: Edit

Bud-
I'm just selling one now, and am always looking. email me the details when you can.
Thanks,
Enoch Snyder

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Tuesday, July 31, 2001 - 01:34 pm: Edit

can't wait until I can seriously look at buying a Series to work on....passed up a good deal on my friends '69 FJ40 in order to save for that Series...

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Thursday, August 02, 2001 - 08:49 am: Edit

Location??

Anyway, FWIW....

David at the Thatched Roof has gotten back from Billing, and has 5 Series Land Rovers now. They'll be shipped over during the next month or so.

Let's see... there's a nice 88" that was featured in LRO, a twin of it, a 109 SIII SW, one that'll probably be a project because it's average, and another.... don't remember what it was... OH, I do, it's not a Series, but a '75 Rangie.... Anyway... he's got some coming, and there's a few around now.

Blue, what price range are you looking at for your Series? If I can be of any help, let me know.... I could've used someone when I was looking and bought mine.... Oh! the things I've learned......




-L

By Bud on Thursday, August 02, 2001 - 09:37 am: Edit

You can get the scoop on this one and a few pix on LRX. Just limit the search to Missouri and Series IIa.

Bud

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, August 02, 2001 - 09:52 am: Edit

I'm slowly trying stockpile about $5k. At the rate I'm going, I should be there towards the end of this century.

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Thursday, August 02, 2001 - 10:26 am: Edit

Blue,

Okay.... Ya want the truth? In the US, $5k is gonna get you a project vehicle. It'll be drivable, but it'll be needing a LOT of work. $8-12k will get something that is much more respectable. $18-25k will get a VERY nice Rover.

Email me if ya want a lot of links and tips, suggestions, pointers, school-of-BTDT kind of stuff.

-L

By Leslie on Thursday, August 02, 2001 - 10:30 am: Edit

PS: Project vehicles can be found from $1k to $8k, BTW.... low-end Rovers tend to be over-priced.

Also note: I said "US". You can get a clean daily driver in the UK (pre-76) for a couple of thousand, bring it over for a thousand or so... For less than $5k you can get a respectable vehicle. It'll be a RHD vehicle most likely... that bothers some people, but others love it. Kinda cool when I borrow one of Dave's and bring my dog along so people think that she's driving...

Loko at the time... I'm outta here!


-L

By Ron on Thursday, August 02, 2001 - 10:30 am: Edit

L,

YOu are being optimistic on price. They are out there cheap you just need to know what to look (and look out) for.

My 59 88 is pretty much new (except for the back half of the trucks paint) if someone want to pay 18-25k for it I would take it in a minute.

Ron

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Thursday, August 02, 2001 - 10:33 am: Edit

Ron,

Note my follow-up. I'd say that 3/4 of the Rovers here fall into that class.

There are a LOT of Rovers out there in that up-to 5K range, BUT! Every one of them should be considered a project. Maybe a rolling restoration, but still in need of a lot of stuff. By the time it becomes a $10k Rover, you'll havev $15k plus labor into it. No?


-L

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, August 02, 2001 - 11:01 am: Edit

Whoa, there, big fella....I am lookin for a project vehicle - if I can drive it home, that would be nice, but that's not even a necessity. I plan on totally dismantling the beast and then slowly putting it back together. I foresee an endless project vehicle, something my wife will just love . Right hand drive would be great, too.

By Leslie on Thursday, August 02, 2001 - 01:19 pm: Edit

Okey-dok... just wanting to make sure.


Since you want to a project, but want to do it right, here's my suggestion. Look for one that, first and foremost, has a clean bulkhead. A decent body is great, too, try to dodge one with much corrosion. Running and drivable.

The thing that makes or breaks the value of a Series is the condition of the frame and of the bulkhead.

Frames are easy to come by; bulkheads are findable, but much more difficult. If you find a Rover that would be great EXCEPT for the frame, use it as a hard bargaining point to really drop the initial price. Get a new frame, and swap over, doing your reconditioning as you go.

I'll send ya some links later, maybe tonight or tomorrow, depending on what she-who-must-be-obeyed has for me to do.....

L8R,

-L

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, August 02, 2001 - 02:39 pm: Edit

thanks a lot.

By Bud on Friday, August 03, 2001 - 01:54 am: Edit

FWIW, the Series that Jay Brown has will most likely fall into the "I wish I had bought THAT one" category. I don't think he has ever had a project vehicle. This was supposed to be one he was going to keep for "eternity". Things change though. This one is kinda rare since it has a PTO winch. If you know of anyone that is seriously interested and has questions, they can contact me. I'm only a couple of miles away and would be happy to provide "eyes" for a potential buyer.

Bud

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, August 03, 2001 - 06:01 am: Edit

if you want to loan me the cash, Bud, I'm all over it!

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, August 03, 2001 - 06:02 am: Edit

how about a picture of the "cherry", Bud? It sounds nice...

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Friday, August 03, 2001 - 06:09 am: Edit

Bill,

This guy in Sedona had a IIA for sale:

1967 S IIA, 88'' Station Wagon
Rick 520-203-0992 or email [email protected]

I checked it out earlier this year, but had to bail at the last minute. Frame, bulkhead, and body are really good and rust free. Engines such can be rebuilt, but bulkheads and frames are PITA!

I'm a bit biased. Series trucks with head lights on the wings, synchro trannys, and plastic dash boards don't count...
;-)

By Ron on Friday, August 03, 2001 - 06:14 am: Edit

"Since you want to a project, but want to do it right, here's my suggestion. Look for one that, first and foremost, has a clean bulkhead."


Here is where we disagree. I say find one with a good engine/tranny/T-box and one that looks the way you want that has not been molested. Options are great too. Then get the bulkhead done right and replace the frame with galvanized one. The end result is the best and longest lasting thing you will have. Sure the investment in the two parts will be 2500-3000 BUT it will make it that much better and more valuable.

The other thing is try to get in your mind what you are willing to replace v what you will repair. My series has about 10k in it in parts and the engine/tranny and t-box and non steel body parts were pretty much untouched. 90% of the bits were replaced elsewhere though. Made it real easy to get back together, and I was able to do it quickly because of it. If the truck had been in better shape to bein with a lot of the expense could have been saved. Then again, you are only going to have it a part one or two times so you mind as well do it right. All this being said I can make/buy a decent driver for under 5 no problem. You can find runners with shot frame for under 2 and with a new frame, some bulkhead panels and a bit of TLC you are in good shape.

Ron

By Bud on Friday, August 03, 2001 - 06:24 am: Edit

Blue Gill - Here are the pictures from LRX. Quality of the photos doesn't really do it justice.



Bud

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Friday, August 03, 2001 - 06:52 am: Edit

Ron,

I think it depends on where your skills lie. I've never even fired up a welding torch, whereas I can pull the head off a 2.25 blindfolded. A virgin bulkhead would be much more valuable to me than a virgin engine, because I know that I can get the engine into what shape I want, but the bulkhead I'd have to farm it out (at least until I can learn my way around a welder).

Either way, I think the key is to find something that is good about it, and realize that you're writing off the bad portion, chalking it up to a replacement.

Gee, Jeff, a little harsh on my SIII, aren't ya??
Nah, I've got to say that I like the SIIa just fine, but a SIII will probably be a touch cheaper and, maybe, in better shape.

Bud, Tell your friend that he's got a sharp Rover... I like the late IIa... though it has the headlights in the wings (it DOES cast the light better than having them on the breakfast), it still has the simple dash (but, it's nice to know that your forehead stands a chance against the plastic more than it does the bottle-opener of a IIa). He might do better to sell the PTO separately.... it'd be a bit of trouble to remove it, but he could get more for it that way.

L8R,

-L

By ron on Friday, August 03, 2001 - 07:08 am: Edit

Koenig PTO winch. ~800.

Ron

PS Definately right about knowing your strengths it is just that a repaired bulkhead (using galvanized panels) will last longer than the original and the engines will run indefinately if they are given even a modicum of maintaince. Oh and the head on Noah looks like it has never been off, in 42 years and 43,000miles.

By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Friday, August 03, 2001 - 03:19 pm: Edit

"Gee, Jeff, a little harsh on my SIII, aren't ya??"

Nah. Just causing trouble. Kinda like the D1 vs DII debate (ETC vs CDL).

I did see a nice hybrid III that had a IIA breakfast with lights along with the III lights in the wings (4 headlights). That was neat.

What I like best about driving my IIA at night is when the headlights dim when I decelerate and generator slows down. ;-)