Took the Plunge for OME! Any tips?

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Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Rob Land on Friday, August 10, 2001 - 01:26 pm: Edit

I recently ordered a full set of OME MD springs, as well as new shocks, for my '95 and should receive them in the next few days. I have printed out the instructions from the Tech area to walk me through the install but was wondering if anyone had any good tips or suggestions that might help. This will be my biggest mod to date, and I can't wait to get it done. Thanks for the advice or any tips you might have.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Friday, August 10, 2001 - 01:37 pm: Edit

Take your time, make sure your jack stands are secure, chock the wheels that will remain on the ground, and add anti-seize to the bolts when you put on the new gear.

Also, for the shocks, I didn't go with the pipe wrench on the shock body method. On the stud of the shock (both my original Woodheads and the replacement OME) there is a square end above the threads. I put a small wrench on the end (forget which size) and used that to hold the stud while I loosened and, later tightened, the nut. It's also easier to loosen the front shock while the front towers are still mounted.

You may need a spring compressor for the front. Some folks have, others haven't. Kragen Auto Parts has a tool rental deal where if you rent a tool and return it the same day, it's free. I'd pick one up before you start. If you don't need it, it's free. If you do, then it's one less emergency/greasy trip to the parts store after you've got half the truck torn apart.

Just some things that helped me.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Mike B. on Friday, August 10, 2001 - 02:33 pm: Edit

Clean the underside of your Disco thoroughly before you start. Also spray all nuts and bolts with Penetrating Oil (not WD-40!) starting 24 hours before the job. This will make the job go much quicker. I used a set of channel locks with rubber sleeves over the jaws to grip the shocks. It worked pretty well.

Thanks,
Mike B.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, August 10, 2001 - 02:41 pm: Edit

print out Kyles tutorial and follow it. Ditto Jeff's advice (especially the wrench on the square end above threads - no reason to mutilate new shocks with pipe wrench). I needed spring compressor on all springs to get the new OME's installed. I "rented" a spring compressor from Autozone for a week for a whopping $zero (their official policy is buy it, use it, return it for a full refund). Unfortunately, I did the "emergency/greasy trip to the parts store after you've got half the truck torn apart." :)

take before & after pictures from same angle & distance - you'll really be able to see the difference. Cool.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Perrone Ford on Friday, August 10, 2001 - 07:07 pm: Edit

Why are you guys needing spring compressors? The OME springs are not that tall. I installed RTE 3" HD springs on my RR without a compressor. I did do the AutoZone deal and got the compressors for $50. I never took it back. As much as I change suspension, its just easier to have in the garage.

There was some good advice given above, but there is one BIG thing no one ever mentions. when you put the truck down onto the jack stands after removing the tires, make sure the jack stands are on the LOWEST setting. Then when you apply the jack to the frame to lift the truck, your jack will have a lot more "reach". This allows you to do the job safely without the compressors for all but the very tallest of springs.

Best of luck,

-P

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Jeff Bieler (Mrbieler) on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 04:05 am: Edit

So Perrone, you're advocating working under the vehicle while it's supported by a jack and not by floor stands?

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Perrone Ford on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 05:18 am: Edit

Of course not. Did my message give that impression? The axles are each supported by jackstands. You are only jacking one corner of the car on the frame with a jack. If the jack were to fail, it could only go as far as the axle would allow.

I also use the jack with a 6x6 to give added, non-compressable height, but this is more a secondary precaution.

-P

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By RRO list on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 07:17 am: Edit

Jeff, don't question Perrone's teachings.
He's the top dog in all tech things.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By wonker on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 07:43 am: Edit

...ok buddy...

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 07:54 am: Edit

LOL , here we go.... A compressor makes it an easy in and out Perrone. You can "Get away" without having it and I am doing a set today that I probably wont. But when handing out advice you want to point to the easiest path.Also , if you want to weigh time. COnsider that most still have the bars on and you damn ner have to take them off to do it your way. Compare the time to take them off to the time it takes to compress the spring and slide it in with the bar still on... Comprende?

Kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Rob Land on Saturday, August 11, 2001 - 08:03 am: Edit

Thanks for the good advice. I will keep it all in mind. It is great to hear so many different perspectives. Hopefully, everything will go smooth. I will take some pics and get Ho to post them for me with the results. Thanks again, and any more suggestions are welcome.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Sunday, August 12, 2001 - 06:28 am: Edit

I didn't have the rear anti-sway bar removed for the first rear spring - went to get spring compressor at that point. I removed the rear anti-sway for the second rear spring and it went in OK without compressor. I said screw removing front anti-sway and just used the compressor on the front springs 'cause it was easier. If you don't have access to a compressor, you can still do suspension, but the Autozone down the street is literally giving them away, so why not make it easier on yourself? That's why you, Perrone, actually bought a compressor, right? :)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Perrone Ford on Sunday, August 12, 2001 - 08:31 am: Edit

Actually, I bought a compressor because my stock brake lines were getting in the way of my installation. And because I was swapping suspensions every weekend for 8-10 weeks. I also end up helping club members with their spring installations. When you do it that often, you don't want to have to run to Autozone every time.

The compressor does make it simpler in some instances and for those with swaybars, its absolutely a good idea. I had forgotten about swaybars when I made my last post (mine have been gone so long!) so that was good advice from Kyle. And when i mention removing the swaybars, I don't mean for the purposes of the installation, I mean permanently.

-P

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Rob Land on Sunday, August 12, 2001 - 08:58 am: Edit

Perrone,
Being new to this stuff, what exactly do the swaybars do, what do they look like, and where are they located? What will happen if I remove mine, as well? Thanks for the info.
Rob

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Mike R. on Sunday, August 12, 2001 - 09:27 am: Edit

The swaybars help to reduce body roll when taking turns. To be as vague as possible, they are U-shaped steel rods that connect to the axle on each end of the U, and on the frame in-between.
If you remove the swaybars, you will get increased axle travel, but will lose the added stability when turning. Obviously everyone has a different tolerance for body roll. Some people don't mind, some can't handle the feel it gives.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Perrone Ford on Sunday, August 12, 2001 - 02:06 pm: Edit

Yea,

Yea, what Mike said, and he pretty much said it all. One thing to keep in mind is that there are MANY vehicles out in the world that handle great without sway bars. The trick is to get the right suspension setup which minimizes roll. Unfortunately, minimizing roll means a quite stiff ride off-road (if you forgo the swaybars) or very limited articulation (if you keep the bars). You can't have it both ways!

-P

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Monday, August 13, 2001 - 07:50 am: Edit

>"I was swapping suspensions every weekend for 8-10 weeks"

Are you nuts?! :)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Ron on Monday, August 13, 2001 - 07:53 am: Edit

Yes he is.

Ron

No offense P :)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Perrone Ford on Monday, August 13, 2001 - 08:30 am: Edit

I was swapping suspensions to give accurate feedback to RoverTym on his then new springs for RRs. My wheeling partner Brian Bonner was doing the same testing D90 springs. In fact, at present, I have the D90 3" HD springs fitted. as I felt that they felt better on my truck since I don't have a roofrack, sliders, winch, etc.

My pain was the LR communities gain. But I did learn how to do swaps with a minimum of fuss!

-P


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