By badams on Thursday, August 16, 2001 - 10:06 pm: Edit

I was looking at getting new polybushings for my radius arms. Any suggestions on where to get them, and do I have to buy a whole kit or can I just get the bushings seperate.

Thanks

By MTB on Thursday, August 16, 2001 - 10:41 pm: Edit

I got my polybush's (blue) at atlantic british but I bought the set for about $200 over a year ago. never put them in yet. Placing a order today with RT too replace my arms. Try AB I think they sell them seperate. do you already have some on if so how do you like them. Nadim is the only that I've read that has them and I think he likes them.

Michael B

By nadim on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 12:46 am: Edit

MTB
true i really like them, and they stand firm in front of harsh conditions...

By Robert Mann (Oldscout) on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 03:47 am: Edit

I just picked up the whole front end set of OEM bushings from Nathan for under $40. it's is over 20 pieces

By badams on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 07:01 am: Edit

I have a 1998 Disco and I am suffering from a popping noise under the driver-side wheel well, after accelerating from a moderate + stop.

I was going to take a look under-neath this weekend and check for loose calipers, wore bushings, or ....

Any suggestions?

Brian

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 07:23 am: Edit

I had same symptoms - turned out to be primarily loose linkage and secondarily worn bushings (of course, loose parts accelerate degradation of already-worn bushings).

$40 for a full OEM set from Nathan? That's great! I'll have to get around to doing that, too. Another Disco job to add to the list.......

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 07:25 am: Edit

one more thing - source of a strange clicking and chattering over bumps turned out to be very small cracked weld on heat shield of front driver's wheel. Sounds like the wheel is ready to fall off. There are all sorts of strange sounds coming from under these beasts...good luck sourcing them all!

By badams on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 08:08 am: Edit

hahah... I am affraid it is going to be a pain in the ass locating all the beasties underneath my disco. I will most likely end up replacing everything till the popping stops

Anyone know a place in Orange County,Ca that has a high capcity press? to get out the bushings?

By Perrone Ford on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 09:34 am: Edit

Does anyone have a comparison of:

Polybush Red
Polybush Blue
Ironman Yellow (other)
anything else?

Some of my bushings are in horrific shape, and I am simply biding time until I can get these old ones pressed out and new ones installed. But I would like to keep some of the articulation of the stock bushes, and firm up some other areas.

Thanks guys,

-P

By Ron on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 09:46 am: Edit

Polybush Red=firm, too firm, need to swap them out of the 110 as thats what on there now.
Polybush Blue=less firm no experience
Ironman Yellow (other)= even less firm, felt like stock in ride on the only truck I have seen with them
Bearmach purple=what do you think? Its bearmach it has to be crap. Used to be able to buy them for 100 on ebay.
Graphite= cheap (60ukp from craddocks) quality is supposed to be good. No squeaks. Thinking about getting some for the RR. waiting for some good feedback.

Ron

I dunno

By Tom P. on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 09:56 am: Edit

I'm just going with genuine rubber bushes. They ride fine and flex better than poly. I hope to have them in by end/September.

Tom P.
96 Disco

By Perrone Ford on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 10:08 am: Edit

Tom,

The only problem with the orginal is that I really don't want to have to press these things in and out when I do this job. It's much easier with the polys. And since they deflect less, they are kidna useful in certain areas like the panhard rod.

Thanks,

-P

By Tom P. on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 10:18 am: Edit

But the local shop told me only about 20 minutes to wait for them to press the old out, new in. Then I'm back home and bolt it together.

Besides, I'm not about to put a press in my garage :-)

Tom

By John on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 10:43 am: Edit

Sawzall the suckers out, best way on the radius arms. 15 ton press does the rest of pushing out and pushing in. I still believe in the std. bushing long term and use them, and flex well.

By badams on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 11:04 am: Edit

I found some more info. here.

http://www.sf.hiof.no/~frodehaa/bushes.htm

I always have questions ...

The author mentions that once he removed the various parts, radius arm, panrod, and had them wirebrushed, sandblasted, cleaned and given a 2 layers of zinc-coating for galvanizing and priming. Has anyone else done this, if so, how much and what kind of shop would do this?

By Bill Bettridge (Billb) on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 11:07 am: Edit

Downside of urethane is lack of "memory" - urethane will "set" in situations where rubber will not. I just took a set of blues off some front radius arms (chassis side) and they were so oblonged and misshapen that it was obvious that they were not doing there job and more importantly, contributing to front end slop. If urethane was that good for long term use - all class 8 truck mfg's would have switched - they haven't (I know - it's what I do for a living) The downside of rubber is degradation, but as long as you treat them as wear parts and replace them as necessary or on a schedule I think they will treat you better.

Sorry for the diatribe

By Ron on Friday, August 17, 2001 - 11:45 am: Edit

Bill B,

I am buying rubber then. You are definately the expert.

Ron

By Frode H�bertz Haaland (Discofrode) on Sunday, August 19, 2001 - 08:07 pm: Edit

Badams!
You're talking 'bout me, man!
I started using a wirebrush on an anglegrinder, cleaned the rest with thinner. Front radius arms were pretty rusty. Got pretty clean, and bought a aerosol can of zincprimer at autostore, and topped w/bright red paining.

Neighbour got this DIY-aircompressor, with a sandblaster on (said it cost him xome $50, that is sandblaster only). Very useful cleaning rust. If I had a compressor, I'd buy the sandblaster. Use it outdoors, and wait 'till neighbour doesn't have clothes drying outdoors ;-))

If you don't have these tools at hand, just forget about painting them. I like the painting both for its protection, and because it's easy to see if I've hit something.

Frode
http://home.halden.net/discovery

By Redsrover (Redsrover) on Monday, August 20, 2001 - 02:46 am: Edit

Sounds like the removal of the OEM rubber bushings is the real PITA here. What is the process? Remove the front radius arms and take them to a shop to have them pressed?

Ron

By Bill Bettridge (Billb) on Monday, August 20, 2001 - 07:34 am: Edit

Like John said above- you can sawzall them out, or alternately burn them out with a torch and then cut the outer sleeve and then knock the pieces out.

By Ron on Monday, August 20, 2001 - 07:48 am: Edit

or alternately burn them out
with a torch and then cut the outer sleeve and then knock the pieces out.


Don't inhale the flumes!!!!!

Ron

By Tom P. on Monday, August 20, 2001 - 07:54 am: Edit

"Like John said above- you can sawzall them out, or alternately burn them out with a
torch and then cut the outer sleeve and then knock the pieces out."

Are these the only two possibilities? Can't you just press the full radius arm bushes out at the press?

Tom P.

By Perrone Ford on Monday, August 20, 2001 - 07:57 am: Edit

I HOPE you can press them out! That's why I'm dropping $350 on a shop press! By the time I charge all the club members $50 to do the bushings, I will have a free press and be on well on my way to an air compressor!

-P

By John on Monday, August 20, 2001 - 08:05 am: Edit

Radius arm bushings...20 ton press maybe will press them out, if rusted in good...Sawzall

By Bill Bettridge (Billb) on Monday, August 20, 2001 - 11:36 am: Edit

I've tried with a 25 ton (electric-hydraulic) here at work with no luck before

By Bill Bettridge (Billb) on Monday, August 20, 2001 - 11:38 am: Edit

Ron,

The fumes are great maaaaan !- after 12 years of working with industrial/auto. rubber components and too many times standing in the burnout pit at 75/80 I don't think I'd even notice it!