RTE 3" Lift???

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Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By jay caragay (Jcaragay) on Tuesday, August 21, 2001 - 09:01 pm: Edit

Okay, from what I saw at RoverFest, I really like the hardcore-ness (is this a word?) of the RTE products. And since I am interested in lifting my D1, I would like to use RTE springs.

Can I simply purchase the springs and put them on without further mods right away?

John at RTE recommends their Suspension Kit that includes:
RTE 3" springs
4 shocks matching suspension lift
Rear shock mount kit (top and bottom)
Articulation cones
Extended rear brake lines
RTE rear links if needed(pinion angle correction)
Front radius arm correction(castor correcting)
Front Double-Cardon driveshaft if needed
$1945.00 if retaining springs, subtract cone cost.

While I do not doubt that this is a fantastic set-up, my bank doubts that I have two grand at my disposal for a suspension kit.

With this in mind, what path can I take?

Can I buy and install springs now and add on as I go along?

Or do I really need to install all this at once?

Thanks

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By MTB on Tuesday, August 21, 2001 - 10:42 pm: Edit

I say yes.
1. Driveshaft Front stock shaft could get vib's due to the angle that a 3" puts on it. It's short and a single u-joint at each end. that is why they change to a double cardon driveshaft to compinsate for the angle.
Rear shaft if you have a roto flex you may get vibe from that some do some don't.
2. front and rear corrected arms thats up to you you could be driving/floating all over the highway due to the angle's changing.
3. shocks how much drop are you looking for. With stock shocks you will lose drop. I think they sell Roncho's long travel that is the reason for the diff. shock mounts
4 Cones unless you change shocks (long travling) cones will not help. they help the springs reseat themselves when they come down.
5. extended brake lines only if you want drop and maybe if you take rear sways off you usally have play in the lines (readjusting the line).
Some shocks that fit the stock mounts do come a little longer than stock length.
So it all comes down to you and what you want.
It is always hard to say what will be a problem because everyone Disco acts different.

You maybe safer going with just 2" springs then if the money is there in the future sell the springs and get what you want.
It is a gamble anytime you lift you Disco on what needs done.

Good luck.

Michael B

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Alex Schubow (Alex) on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 02:10 am: Edit

You can save some dough by doing the following:

2" springs
Rear upper shock mounts only, with matching ranchos
Brake line extensions
Homemade or EE spring clamps

This will bring you somewhere in the $700 or under neighborhood according to my pre-coffee calculations.

You should be OK w/regard to the driveline vibes with only 2" lift, so you can save $$$ on the DC drive shaft, radius arms, and trailing links. Although those trailing links are awful nice.

Alex

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Danno on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 03:01 am: Edit

the route i went (back in jan/feb) is with the cones, 3" springs, brakelines and long shocks. at the moment i do not have any vibes, but my castor is really screwy. now i have $$$ so i'm in the process of getting the castor corrected which would make me need a CV driveshaft. and while i'm at it getting the rear links too.

you could start with the springs and get in-expensive shocks that fit in the stock shock mounts, then you can see what parts you NEED next, then get the parts that you WANT.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Perrone Ford on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 04:52 am: Edit

I did just the springs. I already had OME shocks which are a little longer than stock but not by much. I have not changed ANYTHING else yet. The folks here have given you good advice.

Going up 3" is NOT for the faint of heart. You will likely get bad u-joint vibrations and you will certainly have poor steering. You'll need the CV driveshaft, front for sure, maybe rear as well, to fix the vibrations and corrected radius arms to fix the steering. So you're in for about $800-$1k right there.

To get more suspension flex, you'll need new brakelines, longer shocks, and drop out cones or spring retainers. If you don't change to long shocks, spring retainers and/or cones are unnecessary, but you won't have much in the way of flex.

It's a slippery slope lined with dollar bills. I've been able to avoid some of the spending because I am just living with my poor steering, and I was lucky not to get vibrations from the U-joints. Most people aren't so lucky. Why do you need 3" anyway? The 2" lift should allow you to run up to a 33" tire which is pretty big. I got the 3" because I wanted to run a 34" tire.

Good luck to you.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By al hang on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 06:47 am: Edit

Please don't install 33's without installing heavy duty axles/diff first.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By John on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 07:37 am: Edit

33's will clear but wont stuff with a 2" lift on a rangie

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 07:56 am: Edit

lol , they wont stuff well on anything without liberal amounts of hacking... And longer arms offsetting the springs mounts,,,etc etc...


kyle

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By James S. (Shack) on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 12:12 pm: Edit

If you want the 3", I would recommend the entire kit.

I did the 3" springs first, and then couldn't get the rest of the stuff fast enough. With three inches your castor is screwed up, and your ride is very harsh because the lower spring plates are not level. In addition, I had a lot of spring noise.

Save your money until you can get the kit.

BTW, I love the cones, they work for me.

James

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By jay caragay (Jcaragay) on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 12:55 pm: Edit

Why do I want the 3" lifts?

Because I must have PHENOMENAL COSMIC POWER!!!

Of course.

But really...

After reading all of your suggestions and chatting with my mechanic about the lift, I will follow your advise and reduce my power to 2" lifts. Then I can slowly add on the beefier components in preparation for a 3" lift in the future.

Thanks for all your input, it is greatly appreciated!

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By John on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 01:01 pm: Edit

Jay, good choice I feel. After meeting you and thinking of your uses and wallets, a 2" lift is what will suit you the best whether it be OME or RTE or whomever.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of pageLink to this message   By pk on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 01:03 pm: Edit

Jay,

Just get some RTE 2" springs and use you stock shocks, they are good shocks. If they are leaky and dead, get some OMEs or the like. Also remove the sway bars for added flex, that is all the flex most will ever need.

With all the cash you save by skipping all the sexy stuff, you can buy a Detroit and a TT for your differentials.

Man, you will be a million miles ahead when you hit the trail.

pk


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