By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 05:09 am: Edit

Front Double-Cardon driveshaft
From your experience, who makes the best, and what is the cost?

Rear OME HD springs with OME nitrocharger shocks extended a few inches with the coupler-nut trick
If I retain springs, will I need to extend brakelines? How about if I'm unretained? Are springs likely to unseat?

Humorous rear driveshaft rotoflex coupling
From your experience, who makes the best rear driveshaft replacement, and what is the cost?

Thanks.

By Perrone Ford on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 05:39 am: Edit

Can't answer the first question, but I am looking forward to the answer. I intend to get mine from GBR since its cheapest.

For #2, I'd say yes, you'll need to extend brake lines. If you need a spring retainer, you'll need longer lines. Don't cut corners here, your life could depend on it. The springs shouldn't unseat with OME shocks front or rear. They just aren't long enough.

No idea on #3

-P

By gil on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 06:10 am: Edit

blue id say extend the brake lines regardless..more as preventitive than anything else. saving a hundred bucks and having one rip off in the middle of the desert would be bad...i have HD front and rear with stock d-shafts, but I dont have a rotoflex..i hear Tom Woods shafts are good, i think somebody on here has them.

By Discosaurus on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 06:30 am: Edit

Just get the front shaft Bill at GBR sells - I forgot who builds it for him but I think it was somebody who once worked for Woods. They work good...IF you need one.

You need to extend them, either way.

Just continue using the RotoFlex and carry a spare. I'm on my second in 65K miles - the original one is my spare. I changed it for the hell of it last time I had the rear diff out - it didn't need it. That's with 3" of lift AND a 5-speed, which is tougher on the driveline then an autobox. Talk of limited life RotoFlex joints is, IMO and experience, just talk.

keith
discosaurus

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 06:48 am: Edit

Thanks, Keith - I've had no rotoflex probs either, but thought I'd gather shaft info all at once. I've heard good things about GBR & Woods' shafts, just looking for some more direct feedback.

I currently have OME MD rear springs, and will be upgrading to HD. From what I can tell, the HDs are the same length as the MDs (just stiffer). I don't think I'll need retainers just yet, but maybe after I extend shocks. Haven't had any brake line issues yet, but I'm worried that extending shocks by about 3" may push the brake lines too far...sounds like I should extend brake lines at the same time as shocks, and then consider retainers. I also plan on sliding in a 10mm packer on the passenger spring - will that affect retainer use at all?

Thanks again.

By Discosaurus on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 07:07 am: Edit

If you mean the Emu poly spacer, it may.

Depending on the retainer you use (or build), a reduction in the useable inside diameter of the spring could create clearence problems for the mounting bolts that hold the 2 halves of the retainer together. Does the Emu spacer "close the hole" in the spring center to any degree ??

If I remember correctly, the stock brake line set on the rear of my '96 didn't have too much extra length to play with. I think I maxed it out by just removing the swaybars.

keith
discosaurus

By Alex Schubow (Alex) on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 07:11 am: Edit

The spring packers on top of the rear springs will not get in the way of home-made springs clamps made from 3/16" or 1/4" thick steel strap. Don't know about the EE retainers, but I'm sure JL or Ho will chime in anytime now.

As far as brakelines go, you can lift the bracket on the axle by using longer bolts and a bunch of washers, and lower the frame mounted bracket the same way. Not as good of a solution as the SS braided longer lines, but it will work.

Alex

By Ho Chung (Ho) on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 07:43 am: Edit

Front Double-Cardon driveshaft
tom woods, SG, GBR.


Rear OME HD springs with OME nitrocharger shocks extended a few inches with the coupler-nut trick .....
yes, get longer brake lines, during twisting, they are fine, but if you lift the whole rear at the service dealer, they might not be long enouhg.
also, you can easily relocate the brakeline braket above the rear axle. the springs will unseat with the coupler. you can use one of the trim packers with the retainer.
the 3 inch extension might be just a bit too long for just OME HD springs. you might have to play a bit with the coupler to get the right amount of extension.


Humorous rear driveshaft rotoflex coupling ....
GBR

By Kyle Van Tassel (Kyle) on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 07:53 am: Edit

Ditto of Ho's post...

Kyle

By Tom P. on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 08:14 am: Edit

Blue,

If your change the brake lines first, then changing springs is a walk in the park. You can just lower the whole axle until the springs fall out. Makes life simple. Once you put in your shock spacers though, you be pushing the stock lines (maybe too far). So, better safe than sorry since every Disco is different.

With HD's you do not *need* retainers. But with you shock spacers, you may. It all depends on coil bind and bump stop height (assuming your using stock shock mounts).

Tom P.

By Moe on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 08:28 am: Edit

I extended the OME shocks about 3 1/2", retained the Bearmach HD springs, made a small bracket to get the last inch out of the stock brake lines (right there on top of the diff), and have bump stops on order. It flexes well, but not too much, and I definitely noticed an increase in traction.

Don't you have an ARB rear locker? Better get rid of the rubber donut.

Bumpstop info: Daystar # KU09014
I bought them for $29.95 plus shipping from Gary at http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/ Call (541) 474-2879. These bumpstops require cutting the old rubber off and bolting the new ones on to the existing bracket

By Moe on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 08:36 am: Edit

Blue, regarding the coupler nut trick, here is a copy of part of an email I sent regarding this 'upgrade'.

-------------------
I went ahead and extended the OME shocks. The total extra length was about
3 1/2". I followed the EE instructions closely. In previous emails I
mentioned that the OME shock is 12mm x 1.25. This is an unusual thread and
you will not find couplers in this size. The equivalent SAE is 1/2" x 20
(fine thread) but this is also a difficult thread size to find. I ended up
going with 1/2" x 13 (course thread). To do this I simply rethreaded the
OME shock to the new size. Unfortunately, I did not find a grade 8 coupler
nut and it was a bit longer than the one John recommends. The bolt I used
ended up being 2 3/4" long and I was able to snug it up tight against the
OME stud. It all looks pretty good and tight. I also made a couple of
small brackets to extend the brake lines--right where they are anchored to
the diff--which lets me drop the wheel as far as the Bearmach HDs allow. To
maintain strength/reliability, I will have to go with the stronger rear links.
--------------------------

By MTB on Wednesday, August 22, 2001 - 03:49 pm: Edit

Blue
I e-mailed Bill @ GBR about 2 weeks ago front DC shaft $399
Rear $399 + $100 for the flange for us Roto Boyz

Michael B

By Blue Gill (Bluegill) on Thursday, August 23, 2001 - 07:24 am: Edit

>"Rear $399 + $100 for the flange for us Roto Boyz"

With GBR's rear shaft, what would it take to cancel my membership to the Roto Boyz club?

P.S. Thanks to all for the replies.