By Daniel on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 03:54 am: Edit

O.K. I have created a problem for myself.
This weekend while changing my shocks (first time ever doing this job) I managed to break off on of the bolts that hold the shock tower in place.
My qustion is three fold:
1) How much trouble am I in? I drove to work today with no problems at all.
2) How do I fix it? They look to be "flat headed"
type bolts. I assume to spring has to come out. How does one do that? Can I fix this without a spring compressor?
3) Does anyone have any of these little bolts with the nuts and washers left over from an upgrade. I'd be happy to buy them from you.
Thanks for reading all this,
Daniel

By Daniel on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 03:56 am: Edit

p.s. I'd like to change as many of these bolts on the passenger side as I can get. I tightened all of them quite a bit. I'm afraid I might have done some damage to the others.
Thanks again,
-D

By Redsrover (Redsrover) on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 04:36 am: Edit

Looks like the shock tower securing ring (RNS039 - $16.00) and it does require removing the spring. On a stock truck (stock springs) it shouldn't be a big deal. Buy two and replace them both. The worst part is removing the shock.

Red

By Daniel on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 04:46 am: Edit

Red,
Tell me about it. It took me longer to break the locktite on the bolts than anything else. Not easy. My next question is, do I need a spring compressor, or can I lift the truck by the frame to remove/replace the spring?
I'm a little in the dark because the only part missing (so far) from my 2nd hand manual is the front suspension section.
Thanks,
Daniel

By Daniel on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 05:05 am: Edit

Red,
I've been thinking about what you said, and it sounds to me like there is a ring under the shock tower inside the spring mount that has four bolts on it. These bolts come up through the bottom of the upper spring mount and through the bottom of the shock tower. Am I envisioning this correctly? Is so, this should replace all four bolts on one side. (I'm not up for removing the other shock any time soon. I'm not so worried about that side. I didn't torque it nearly as much.)

By Redsrover (Redsrover) on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 05:21 am: Edit

Daniel,

That's right. The ring has 4 threaded studs on it that stick up through the shock tower and secure it. The spring holds the ring against the bottom of the spring retaining braket on the frame.

If you don't have spring compressors and the springs are stock, jack up the truck under the diff. Get it high enough to place jack stands under the frame just aft of the front radius arms. Take off the tires and slowly lower the front axle housing being sure not to stretch the brake lines. Chek the tech section for a great step-by-step write-up on swaping out springs.

if you end up needing spring compressors, go to your local autoparts store and ask if they have them for rent.

Red

By Ali on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 05:31 am: Edit

Daniel,

You are right about the ring with four studs. You can replace the entire ring or just live with it as it poses to immediate problmes. If you have gas charged shocks then it's a good idea to replace it. Gas shocks put a little more pressure on shock tower then normal hydraulic shocks. BTW, apply anti-seize on all threads for ease of removal the next time!

If you want to take the spring out, here's an easy solution: chock all wheels, disconnect front sway bars, remove the bottom shock nut, jack up the axle housing on that side, remove tire, place a jack stand under the front radius arm bracket, lower SLOWLY until spring comes out. Be careful of the vehicle's movement and use a floor jack if possible for stability. Spray on liberally thread penetrating fluid on everything the night before!

Good luck and be safe.

By Discosaurus (Discosaurus) on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 05:41 am: Edit

If your truck has any kind of milage on it in an area where there is salt of the road in the winter, you'll probably break these damn things off every time. It's no big deal - drive around with the broken stud until you get a new ring, then break off the rest of them, replace the ring, anti-seize the crap out of the new ones and re-torque.

All done.

BTDT

keith
discosaurus

By Danno on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 07:17 am: Edit

call me crazy, but when i changed my shocks, i left the shock tower in place and pulled the shock out with the spring.

but then again, when i changed the shocks, i was also changing the springs....

Danno

By Daniel on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 07:27 am: Edit

Ali,
Let me make sure I clarify this for myself.
You're saying that the only thing keeping the spring in place in the top mount is the shock itself? (Yes, I was completely lost during the retainers v/s cones discussion.) It sounds like I have to disconnect the front sway bar mostly to keep from bending it when the axle drops down. Do I just disconnect one side, or should I remove the whole thing?
Also, (novice question here) the front radius arm is the long skinny piece that connects from the axle housing to a bracket about 2 & 1/2 feet behind the axle on the frame, right. This bracket on the frame is where I put the jack stand???
Thanks to everyone who has responded,
Daniel

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 07:43 am: Edit

Pads, easy.

Rotors, a bit more, but still easy (if ya need to replace 'em).

In addition to the above for the pads, knock off the rubber hubcap, remove the circlip, remove drive member, bend the lock-washer straight, remove the large nut/washer/2nd large nut, then remove the rotor/hub assembly. Unbolt the rotor from the hub assembly. Install new rotor and rebolt (use locktite!), put assembly back on and re-insert the bearings, put the nut/lock-washer/nut back on, reinstall drive member w/ a new gasket (I used RTV), put the circlip back on, cover it w/ the hubcap.

I'd suggest getting the caliper back into position before installing the pads, just to give you more room.

Best o' luck!

-L

By Danno on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 09:30 am: Edit

"Let me make sure I clarify this for myself.
You're saying that the only thing keeping the spring in place in the top mount is the shock itself?"(Yes, I was completely lost during the retainers v/s cones discussion.)
the shocks (and swaybar) limit how far the axle can travel. the spring itself is seated by the upper and lower spring perches.

"It sounds like I have to disconnect the front sway bar mostly to keep from bending it when the axle drops down. Do I just disconnect one side, or should I remove the whole thing?"
when dropping the front axle, the swaybar will hit the front drive shaft. you can either use a spring compressor or remove the swaybar and drop the axle. i believe you have to remove it. most people that upgraded their springs leave the swaybars off.

"Also, (novice question here) the front radius arm is the long skinny piece that connects from the axle housing to a bracket about 2 & 1/2 feet behind the axle on the frame, right. This bracket on the frame is where I put the jack stand???"
Correct, radius arms are as you descibed. i put the frame on stands and support the axle with a floor jack at the bottom of the differential

Danno

By Leslie N. Bright (Leslie) on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 09:40 am: Edit

Doh!

Posted in the wrong one.... oops!


-L

By Daniel on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 09:41 am: Edit

One final question.
Is this something that can safely be done to only one side of the axle, or should I just drop both springs out to avoid bending something on the opposing side. I would guess not judging by the articulation of the suspension but just to be sure I thought I should ask...

By Daniel on Monday, August 27, 2001 - 09:46 am: Edit

No problem, Leslie.
I actually printed that out for future referrence.
Daniel